How to make your own pilot's seat for models.

[B-17engineer]

Sorry you lost me T...female?

Nice Wojtek

 

[Wurger]

THX H~.

 

[javlin]

Thanks there Wojtek informative as usual I might give it another go but I think I have a seat now that should work out.Thanks Kevin

 

[Wurger]

No problem Kev...

 

[Airframes]

Harrison, when a two - part mould is used, one part is known as the 'male' mould, which actually forms the shape. This is pushed into (or through, in this case), a second former, which is basically a 'hole' the same shape as the main profile of the moulded item, as viewed from the top, and this is called the 'female' mould.
Wojtek, for moulding canopies I sometimes just use suitable clear plastic from packaging but, mostly, in order to be sure the moulding will be correct, I use clear plastic sheet, from my local model shop, available in various thicknesses. Likewise with plastic sheet (white) for moulding other parts, and for scratch-building, available in sheet and strip form.

 

[hawkeye2an]

wow, that looks so easy. cos my main concern for the B-17 airliner were the seats. if I decide to actually go for it and make one, would you mind building the seats for me?

What scale are you going for? ANY seats would do, can't see much through the windows of a 307 anyway.

 

[Wurger]

I understand Terry. I use the same materials.Most of them , especially the styrene from hobby shops ( both transparent and white) But these aren't availabe for all of us very often. That's why I use and always suggest finding alternative ones.

 

[hawkeye2an]

Harrison, when a two - part mould is used, one part is known as the 'male' mould, which actually forms the shape. This is pushed into (or through, in this case), a second former, which is basically a 'hole' the same shape as the main profile of the moulded item, as viewed from the top, and this is called the 'female' mould.
Wojtek, for moulding canopies I sometimes just use suitable clear plastic from packaging but, mostly, in order to be sure the moulding will be correct, I use clear plastic sheet, from my local model shop, available in various thicknesses. Likewise with plastic sheet (white) for moulding other parts, and for scratch-building, available in sheet and strip form.

There is a wondeful clear material called PTEG that the R/C boys use for molding their canopies. Many hobby shops carry the K S brand of these sheets. Unlike styrene, if you mess up the first time it can usually be re-heated and used again. I use it in my vacuform machines.

 

[javlin]

So Wojtek the heat source was the flame of the stove?the thickness of the plastic you find best to use is .030 are greater?That might been part of my problem I was using .010 and a blower you use to remove floor tiles with.

 

[Wurger]

Yes Kevin. The heat source was the stove. I kept the sheet of plastic quite high above the flames in the hot air stream. The thickness of the sheet...humm you used inches... I use milimeters. The thickness for the plate was of 0.6-0.8 mm I don't remeber exactly.

 

[Trebor]

No problem. Let me know when you decide to start the build. Of course a few dimensions would be welcome.

it'd most likely be either 1:48 or 1:72. most likely 1:48 since bigger would make things a little easier. I could etch out the livery on my masking tape and such.

 

[Wurger]

OK...simply let me know about the scale. Can these be of rasin instead of vacu formed?

 

[vikingBerserker]

DAM! The stuff you, Terry, and Wayne come up with and do just blow me away. Awesome tutorial, thanks!

 

[Catch22]

Nice, thanks Wojtek!

 

[Crimea_River]

Facinating! Thanks Wojtek.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Once again you have picked a good subject and you make it look so easy. What would the modelling world do without you. Thanks for showing us Wojetk.

 

[B-17engineer]

Harrison, when a two - part mould is used, one part is known as the 'male' mould, which actually forms the shape. This is pushed into (or through, in this case), a second former, which is basically a 'hole' the same shape as the main profile of the moulded item, as viewed from the top, and this is called the 'female' mould.
Wojtek, for moulding canopies I sometimes just use suitable clear plastic from packaging but, mostly, in order to be sure the moulding will be correct, I use clear plastic sheet, from my local model shop, available in various thicknesses. Likewise with plastic sheet (white) for moulding other parts, and for scratch-building, available in sheet and strip form.

Ahhh I see, thanks!!

 

[Wurger]

Thank all of you.

 

[A4K]

Wojtek, what a great thread - thanks!
I will try this out very soon!

 

[Wurger]

Don't forget to post a few shots Evan. Glad you found the thread useful.