Nuuumannn's European Tour of 2019

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Thanks again guys - we're getting through this...slowly... It was a long trip, honest...


So, we have driven the short distance between Hooge to Zillebeke and the Front of 1915 at this spot, infamously recorded in history as Hill 60. These are remains of German trenches that have been kept as a park, with memorials honouring those who fought over this seemingly unimportant scrap of ground, but of course in the slow burning nature of trench warfare, every metre gained was precious, being worth thousands of lives. This area around Hill 60, the number was given by the military heads based on its height above sea level was taken by the German 30th Division on 11 November 1914 as part of the First Battle of Ypres and from then on, the British and French expended efforts in taking it back. The hill is, in fact man made, being rubble excavated during the laying of the Ypres-Comines railway line south from Ieper and on the other side of the tracks from Hill 60 is Caterpillar Hill, which, it was realised would need to be taken as well, if Hill 60 was to be occupied.

Thus, British and French miners began their work in the first mining effort of the war and by 10 April 1915 the galleries had been excavated and explosives placed in anticipation.

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Two days later the first mines were exploded and the British advanced. Casualties on both sides were recorded as a result of the explosions and stiff resistance from the Germans from artillery and gas attacks meant the British were held off, but by the end of the day on the 18th, the British had taken the hill. Aerial reconnaissance by 1 Sqn RFC was able to pinpoint the German artillery, against which fire from British artillery was directed from the air against the German positions. Fast forward to June 1917 and the Messines Ridge campaign mentioned several posts back and we are looking at the crater caused by the 1st Australian Tunnelling Company, although the tunnel was begun as early as August 1915, with galleries running under Hill 60 and Caterpillar Hill, work being done by the British and the 3rd Canadian Tunnelling Company. As recorded earlier, at 3:10am on 7 June 1917, mines laid across the German lines were detonated, creating enormous craters across the German lines, including this one. Today, the Hill 60 crater doesn't look like a crater at all, but the ferocity can be hinted at by the depth of the path into its centre. This was one of the northernmost mines, of which there were 21 across a distance of around 8 kilometres.

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This is a monumental stone that was constructed after the end of WW2 but is on the spot of a memorial to the Queen Victoria's Rifles that was commemorated in 1923, but in 1940, the invading Wehrmacht destroyed it. Rededicated after the war, it now incorporates a memorial to the fallen of WW2 as well.

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Originally constructed by the Germans, this machine gun bunker was added to by the Australians after the Messines Ridge Offensive, evidence of which can be seen in the style of construction of this opening. British bunkers differed from the German ones in the use of corrugated walls created by sheets of corrugated iron between which steel reinforced concrete was poured, then the sheets were removed to reveal the corrugated surfaces. Evidence of its original construction method can be seen in the step at the bunker's right in the trees.

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Pathways around the park highlight the location of the ever moving front, this being the German lines.

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This section of built up pathway indicates the lines, with the British and French lines in the foreground and the German lines a few feet away down in the trench we saw at the beginning of this post. The Hill 60 crater is jusr beyond the edge of the image to the right.

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Here we see the British lines during the Messines Ridge Offensive as indicated by these Remembrance Elms bracketed in blue. Running east to west from the right, Ieper is north west of this position, spires from St Maartenskerk and the Cloth Hall are visible on the horizon. This is the southern edge of the Ypres salient, six kilometres to the south west of Broodseinde and Passendale at the easternmost flank of the salient, off to the right of the picture.

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This plaque describes the events surrpounding Hill 60 and reminds the reader that German, British and Commonwealth bodies are still encased within the ground here, lending solemnity to the site. The fence behind is the boundary of Hill 60 Park. This and the following memorials are along the roadside opposite the previous image looking toward Ieper.

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This is memorial to the men of the 1st Australian Tunnelling Company and shows damage inflicted during World War Two.

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This is a memorial to the British 14th Light Division and records the campaigns during the Great War it fought in.

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This memorial sits adjacent to the bridge over the Ypres-Comines railway line and is from a different era to the other memorials here. The following information on the fates of these two men is from tracesofwar.com:

"During the Second World War on the railroad Ypres - Kortrijk something horrific occurred on Hill 60. The German troops were in Ypres and Poperinge. By train from Kortrijk direction Poperinge prisoners and materials were transported. The train was at Hill 60, on the border Zillebeke-Hollebeke and stood still as usual waiting for an extra locomotive that could provide additional traction.

Two French soldiers who were captured in one of the wagons, were shot dead by the Germans. People heard a few shots and 200 meters away were two lifeless bodies. They were Pierre Marchant and Lucien Olivier, who later turned out to be French members of the resistance. The two Frenchmen were arrested in their residence La Madeleine at the station when a train carrying SS'ers entered the station. Presumably suspected of an attack, they were surrounded and captured and taken by train to Belgium and moved to Ypres.

Were they beaten on the run when the train was waiting and shot or were they executed? What happened that day will probably always remain a mystery. The two Frenchmen were provisionally buried in the village Zillebeke. Later they were reburied in their residence. In 1969 Belgium Imosphinx Academy unveiled a memorial to commemorate the two men."

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This is the railway line that runs between Hill 60 and Caterpillar Hill, the dredging out of the channel creating the artificial mounds either side of it - Hill 60 to the left and Caterpillar Hill to the right.

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The German line, indicated by the Remembrance Elm as at June 1917, with a machine gun bunker buried in the overgrowth...

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...And Caterpillar Crater, from the mine that ripped the German position apart on the morning of 7 June.

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This is the end of my Great War battlefields Tour and I hope you have enjoyed it. It was both eye opening and moving and the staff at Camalou Battlefield Tours did a wonderful job at conveying these rich stories and bringing them to life. Obviously in three days, I couldn't cover every aspect of the NZ Div on the Western front, just the most important battles and sites, with extras along the way that really brought the war here to life for me. I felt numb for sometime afterwards.

After returning to Ypres, I spent the afternoon drinking local beer with a couple of Australians I met on the tour, which was the most pleasant way to wind up my time in Ieper. By 8pm, I was back in Paris, having caught a train from Lille, for, the next day was the last day of the Paris Airshow.

See you back at Le Bourget!
 
Grant, I would suggest that you did a least as good a job of conveying the stories and bringing them to life as the tour company to which you give credit. Wonderful thread, thank-you.
 
Thank you all for your nice comments and for following on. I certainly learnt a huge amount and, as I've always believed, going to a place puts things into an entirely different perspective.

Grant, the bunker is actually build by the British and then used by the Germans. You can see that as the entrance actually faces Ypress, so on the British side of the front. It's directly in the linerof fire, so the Germans built a small wall to protect people coming in and out.
I believe the trenches are real, only the decoration isn't and they are British.
I might be mistaken, but I believe the pond to be there real Hooge krater. It actually consists of 2 mine craters.

Hi Marcel, thanks for the extra information, I just noticed it. The pond next to the hotel isn't the actual Hooge Crater, although it is created from mines. See here from Wiki:

"Although the largest mine crater (created by a mine detonated at Hooge by the 175th Tunnelling Company of the Royal Engineers on 19 July 1915) has since been filled in, several other large mine craters that were created over the course of the fighting can still be seen. The most visible evidence remaining today is a large pond near the hotel and restaurant at the Bellewaerde theme park. The site is the result of Baron de Wynck, who landscaped three mine craters (blown by German units in June 1916 as part of their offensive against Canadian troops) into the existing pond near the hotel."

My understanding is that it is a German bunker, Marcel. It might have been captured by the British and used by them, but it was built by the Germans originally. The method of construction is testimony to this. This page confirms it; the display at the entry to Frontline Hooge states it's a German pillbox and the web page confirms that the craters on site are not the original Hooge Crater. Sorry about that.

The Menin Road – The Craters at Hooge
 
Thank you all for your nice comments and for following on. I certainly learnt a huge amount and, as I've always believed, going to a place puts things into an entirely different perspective.



Hi Marcel, thanks for the extra information, I just noticed it. The pond next to the hotel isn't the actual Hooge Crater, although it is created from mines. See here from Wiki:

"Although the largest mine crater (created by a mine detonated at Hooge by the 175th Tunnelling Company of the Royal Engineers on 19 July 1915) has since been filled in, several other large mine craters that were created over the course of the fighting can still be seen. The most visible evidence remaining today is a large pond near the hotel and restaurant at the Bellewaerde theme park. The site is the result of Baron de Wynck, who landscaped three mine craters (blown by German units in June 1916 as part of their offensive against Canadian troops) into the existing pond near the hotel."

My understanding is that it is a German bunker, Marcel. It might have been captured by the British and used by them, but it was built by the Germans originally. The method of construction is testimony to this. This page confirms it; the display at the entry to Frontline Hooge states it's a German pillbox and the web page confirms that the craters on site are not the original Hooge Crater. Sorry about that.

The Menin Road – The Craters at Hooge
Not sorry. I can be mistaken and am happy to be corrected.
You're right that the pond exists of 3 mine craters. I was under the impression that that was called the Hooge Crater, as confirmed by the book 'Sanctuary Wood & Hooge' that I bought in Ieper. But your website looks convincing and I've heard before that the pond exists of multiple craters. I just thought the Hooge Crater was one of them.
But it's strange that the Germans would build a bunker with the entrance towards Ieper. Doesn't make sense to me.
 
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Thanks to all of you for following on. Before my train to Paris, in Ieper we stopped for this...

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I had three of these and was toast!

Anyway, Sunday 23 June was the last day of the Paris Airshow and so I returned to Le Bourget to enjoy some aircraft action. I had a few camera issues, such as dirty lenses and the limits of my camera's focussing abilities with a big lens and high speed aircraft, but got a few good ones here and there.

Some oddities from the static park. Mean looking AT-6 Texan II.

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AT-6

Airbus was out in force promoting its latest products... ;) Ju 52/3m was a surprise and it flew over my hotel later in the evening, providing something of a noisy, clattery spectacle.

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Airbus latest

There was a smattering of warbirds present; P-40.

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P-40 side

Duxford based P-47.

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P-47 side

Spad. I did a walkaround of this bad boy.

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Spad

Beautiful Spartan.

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Spartan

Boeing KC-46 Tanker. This was it for Boeing at the airshow, no airliners in the static park and nothing participating in the flying display and not a peep about the B737 Max in the Boeing pavilion either. Very low profile for the big American manufacturer. This is Airbus territory.

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KC-46

Alize, sadly didn'tfly on the Sunday, although it did on other days.

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Alize

Fresh from its D-Day and Berlin Airlift commemorations, D-Day Doll attracted a lot of attention from the public.

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D-Day Doll

Typhoon striking a pose.

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Eurofighter

Travel in style, Gulfstream G650ER. The old Le Bourget tower behind.

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G-650ER

Some flightline shots next.
 
More from Le Bourget, Falcon 8X strutting its stuff.

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Falcon 8X

lovely Flamant. This is the best photo I got of it in the air; there was dust on my lens and I didn't realise until the Flamant had finished its display, so I cleaned it in between aircraft. Dangit.

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Flamant

Now the Big Boys. Airbus is re-inventing some of its legacy carriers, this is ther A330 Neo, but apparently no one wants it, they are to enamoured with the A350.

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A330 climb

It's a graceful bird.

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A330 NEO

A350-1000 XWB - the A350 is currently selling like hot cakes. Qantas has just announced the type as its preferred carrier for its Sydney - London direct route. Man, that's a long way to be spending on an airliner without stopping.

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A350 climb

Seeing big airliners been thrown about is still a thrill.

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A350-1000

A380 - Airbus' Big Daddy is to be no more. After Emirates' current order is fulfilled, production of the Super Jumbo will cease.

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A380 climb

As I said at the Farnborough Airshow last year, when this Bus appeared in the static display open to the public, "Coral Reefs gone by 2050? The A380 will be gone well before then..."

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A380

Airbus dominated at Paris and picked up a few choice orders. it is currently outselling Boeing, which is good news for the Euro-manufacturer, but it's not been without its issues - I noticed the absense of the A320 NEO, which like the B737 Max is suffering pitch issues that has largely gone unnoticed owing to the fact that no airframe has been lost as a result, but operators are wary of the new type in light of the Max problems.

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Airbus dominates

From the Biggest to the Greatest - That's All Brother got a standing ovation from the crowd.

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That's All Brother i

The A400M is a beast in the flying display, but is still bathed in controversy.

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Atlas

My camera was not liking those spinny things and wouldn't focus, so I had to put the shutter speed into a sport setting.

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A400 approach

The Patrouille de France wowed the crowd as it always does.

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Patrouille de France

Lastly, Pakistan was present in the static and in the air with its JF-7 Thunder light strike fighter, built with help from China.

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Thunder climb

No one's buying it. The PLAAF won't order it, so Pakistan, annoyed at the Chinese for not doing so is left as the sole operator, which means it has to carry the costs. It's no wonder it is furiously marketing the type.

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Thunder pass

When I left the airshow, the Morane Saulnier MS.406 was getting airborne. I stopped to watch it for a wee while, but my camea was packed away as I had to leave early. I was leaving Paris tomorrow morning and I had one last stop to make. I wanted to see Mr Mojo Risin' one more time...
 
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So, the night before I had spoken with my girlfriend and being back in Paris, she asked if I was going to go to see Jim Morrison's grave in the Pere Lachaise cemetery. Jim Morrison is, of course ther lead singer of the US rock band the Doors (did anyone get the Mr Mojo Risin'?), who tragically died in Paris on 3 July 1971 in his bath tub in his apartment. I had visited his grave site as a young impressionable teenager many years earlier and had not made plans to go to the cemetery on this trip, mainly because I only had the one full day in Paris before I was leaving for Rome, but She talked me into it, being a fan of the Doors herself, and having never been to Paris. So I found myself wandering the streets around Le Bourget contemplating how I was going to get across town to the cemetery before 6:30pm, when it closed its gates.

After an hour and 10 minutes of bus and underground travel, and much walking in the heat, I found myself at the cemetery gates with 20 minutes to spare before it closed. I rushed around and snapped some pics as it is the most enchanting cemetery. If any of you are wondering, most movies shot in Europe that show a haunting, run down cemetery would have been filmed at Pere Lachaise. it's a beautiful place and I'm glad I came.

Jim Morrison's grave site. He was 27 years old at the time of his death and as a result joins the 27 Club, an exclusive bunch of individuals who qualify by being famous and dying in their 27th year by their own hand, inadvertently or deliberately. Members include, Kurt Cobain, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and Rolling Stones guitarist Brian Jones, as well as Morrison.

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Pere La Chaise 02

Beautifully atmospheric.

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Pere La Chaise 03

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Pere La Chaise 05

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Pere La Chaise 06

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Pere La Chaise 08

A monument to deportees to the Flossenburg concentration camp.

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Pere La Chaise 09

The grave site of celebrated French warbler Edith Piaf.

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Pere La Chaise 10

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Pere La Chaise 12

This stone caught my eye, it's a Convair 880, but I don't know what the connection is.

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Pere La Chaise 13

A dash of colour in the darkness.

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Pere La Chaise 14

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Pere La Chaise 16

A memorial to Parisian citizens who died during Algerian and Tunisian campaigns between 1952 and 1962.

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Pere La Chaise 22

So, after the short 20 minutes I had wandering around taking pictures I contemplated getting back to my hotel near Le Bourget. It took me nearly two hours! The next day I was off to Rome, for my last engagements and by far and away the best aviation museum I saw on my trip.

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Next, it's Hot in the City!
 
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Ah Rome, a bustling hot metropolis filled with sweaty people trying to get one over on you and bad food outlets. After being fleeced by the taxi and accommodation people for 'extras', leaving me nearly 200 Euro out of pocket due to charges for stuff I hadn't anticipated, I settled into my new digs and then went out into my new environment. I love Rome. It has a romanticism that is breathtaking. Everyone extolls Paris as being the romantic city of Europe - rubbish; it's full of dog faeces on the pavement and French people. Rome is sooo much more enchanting and one thing I wanted to do during my brief stay was to take some photographs of the Roman Forum and the Colosseum at night. Forget St Peter's Basilica, the Coloseo and Roman Imperial Ruins is where it's at here.

It was hot, almost 40 degrees C at 8pm at night, but the light was beautiful.

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The Arco di Costantino, next to the Coloseo, where I got acosted by a dude trying to sell me a bracelet I didn't want.

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Europe 476 by Grant Newman, on Flickr

Magnificent light.

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Caesar Augustus on the Via dei Fori Imperiali, once the most important street in Rome. He's getting a bit sick of the birds cacking on his head, I reckon.

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Caesar's Forum.

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The Altar of the Fatherland at the Piazza Venezia. This is also where the Italian Tomb of the Unknown Warrior is located and is under armed guard all year round. The locals call it the Wedding Cake. We'll come back here tomorrow.

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The Roman Dome in the Palazzo Valentini.

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This is why I came here; The Coloseo in the twilight. The blue of the sky is not enhanced, as I like to do. it is naturally like this and makes for a surreal backdrop to this spectacular monument.

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Finally, a last glimpse as I wander back to my apartment. It was after 10pm and it was still 28 degrees C, but what a beautiful night.

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Tomorrow, more visual treats as I head to the shore of Lago di Bracchiano.
 

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