Painting, Future, Decals, and other finishing challenges.

[Wayne Little]

The little decals can be a pain in the butt...but you just got to take care...cut out the little ones and leave a section of backing paper to hold on to once the decal starts to slide then position it and carefully slide it off the backing paper on to the model and position it, might pay to place atinydrop of water on the model so the decal can slide into position before soaking it up with the corner of a tissue.

 

[meatloaf109]

The only thing I can add is, tweezers and a soft small brush.

 

[Wayne Little]

 

[Crimea_River]

What Wayne said but one other trick I use is to apply a drop of Future to the model where these small decals go. This really cuts down on the chance of these silvering.

 

[mikewint]

I put a drop of microsol on the model then place the decal. I also add a few drops of microsol to the water I soak the decals in. Like Paul I ind that a small paint brush helps to position the decal

 

[Rogi]

Before I came on this site, I was content with painting the exterior, and then painting the inside of the canopy white so I didn't have to do the cockpits!!!!! I've learned a fair bit as well.

Blasphemy! but I commited the same when i started :d except I painted in black cockpits

but Ive learned that cockpits are the best and worst parts (amazing for detail, bad because you dont see half the work put into it in the end)

 

[Rustybugs]

You may not see it, but you know it's there and that it looks dam good!!

 

[mikewint]

One of my pet peeves. Generally I will glue the canopy open. On the 1/48 B-29 I cut sections out of the fuselage to show all the interior detail

 

[Rogi]

Ok heres the thing, and I guess this is a good thread, sometimes I feel like some decals don't go nicely down when you apply Set and Sol, usually if I apply Set I just let it go as is, using Sol only if it gets bad, most of the time if I apply both and there was nothing wrong with the decal when I applied set, sol really ruins it, you get at least 1 crinkle in the decal or some tear.

If you leave it be, with just Set applied, they usually don't sink in nicely to the panel lines.

Do you guys just use Sol and leave it ? Since I've been seeing a lot of Sol refrences yet very little Set.

 

[mikewint]

I personally use only the -sol. I may be totally wrong here but I feel that the -set is the stronger of the two. I put a drop or two in the decal water (warm); when the decal is ready, a drop (-sol) on the aircraft; slide on, position, cover the decal with -sol applied with a soft paint brush; allow to dry

 

[meatloaf109]

I never, repeat, never use sol and set together. Pick one or the other, depending on the need. Set is usually good for most things, sol is for extreme surfaces.
Ha, seems like Mike and I are at different opinions again!
Anyways I'm sure he will agree with the never use them together thing!

 

[Rogi]

Maybe the set and sol react diffrently in diffrent environements? Colder for set, warmer for Sol? (I don't know people, I'm just shooting forth an answer hehe)

 

[meatloaf109]

Don't know. My modeling room is inside the house, and I use warm water for decals.

 

[Airframes]

The method described by Microscale, is to use 'Sol' on the decal before application, leaving it a minute or so to act, then apply to the model, adding 'Set'.
The decal is supposed to wrinkle, as this is part of the softening and setting process, and should not be touched until it has set.
However! Many years ago, I came to the conclusion that using both, apart from (seemingly) having little benefit, took time and could get complicated. ever since, I've only ever used 'Sol', for both applications, as this is the stronger acting agent, with 'Set' being designed more to pull down and 'stick' the decal.
A lot depends on the decal itself, with the ink, carrier film and backing paper all playing a part in the 'performance' of the decal. Some thinner decals may only need brief soaking, and just a little 'Sol', others might not require 'Sol' at all, whilst thicker backing paper, and 'heavier' decals, nay require longer soaking, and more 'Sol' being left on the decal before application, and perhaps more to aid positioning and 'draw down'.
All of this, of course, assumes that the surface to be decalled is clean, and has a good, smooth, gloss finish. Greasy finger marks, not always immediately evident, a semi-matt or poorly painted finish, will all affect the performance of the decal, no matter what decal solutions are used.
I've found that the best results are on a surface with a gloss paint finish, as opposed to a gloss clear coat, and this is certainly the case with Xtracolour enamels, gloss paints in the correct camouflage shades, made especially to make decal application easier and more positive.

 

[mikewint]

Terry would be the expert here, I was not sure as to the "strength" of -sol and -set. I have only ever used the -sol with the decal applied to a surface coated with Future.
Terry, if I read your first line correctly NO water is used? Just -sol over the decal on the dry decal sheet?

 

[Airframes]

Sorry Mike, I should have made that clearer.
Soak in water as normal, letting the decal soak until it is easy to move it around on the backing paper. Soaking time is, of course, dependent on the make of decal, and users will soon determine this after the first decal has been soaked.
Remove the decal/backing paper from the water, shake of excess, and place it (decal image up) on a piece of kitchen towel or soft cloth, then apply the 'Sol'.
Leave the decal for 30 seconds to one minute (approximately) to allow the 'Sol' to soften the decal, and wet the area to be decalled. This can be done with water, 'Sol', or a mix of both - whichever 'works best' for the type of decal, and the contours of the surface.
Apply the decal, lightly pressing it in place with a soft cloth or soft paint brush (not tissue, as this can leave fibres on the decal and surrounding area), and absorb excess moisture with the edge of a piece of tissue.
If the decal has not fully conformed to the surface, then press it gently in place, again with a soft cloth, then apply a drop of 'Sol' using a paint brush.
Leave the decal to set for at least 12 hours. During this time, it will probably wrinkle - this is normal, and part of the setting process.
Inspect after 12 hours and, if not fully settled into surface detail (if present), gently press in place again (dry) using a soft cloth, and repeat the application of 'Sol'. This is rare, as the decal should conform.
(For difficult areas, where silvering is evident, use the 'pin method' and feed 'Sol' under the decal.)

 

[Crimea_River]

I'd love to know if there's any major difference between Mocro-sol and Solvaset, which I use. It was the only stuff available in a small town I moved from 5 years ago and I still have an almost full bottle since so little is used at a time.

I've learned that Solvaset is quite strong and excess needs to be removed soon after application. I've also had cases where it seems to have reacted with Future to create a white patch. I'm becoming less satisfied by Future as a gloss coat as I'm finding it doesn't seem to dry completely glossy. Need to go back and check on what Wayne's been using as his come out really shiny. Although the gloss paint idea makes sense, I'm not keen on tossing the 3 racks of colours I have and replacing them with gloss.

 

[Airframes]

I agree Andy. I can't remember what the actual chemicals are in 'Sol', but they smell the same as a solution which used to be used in professional photo developing, tto prevent film strips/sheets sticking to each other during hand developing. I'd guess that 'Sol' and 'Solvaset' are the same formula, maybe one 'stronger' than the other, and I think that 'Micro Set' is probably a 'weaker' version.
I also agree about the paints - I have a large stock of matt paints (which I'll eventually replace, due to problems with Humbrol), which of course can be more convenient to use, but I also have a few 'modern' colours in Xtracolour gloss, and sometimes get a tin of, for example, RAF Dark green for a specific job.

 

[meatloaf109]

Micro set smells different than Sol. Not that I sit around and sniff modeling supplies.

 

[Rogi]

One smells like Vinegar and the other smells like thiner or something