The airbrush is nice. However order a few spare nozzles both of 0,3mm and 0,2mm additionally.
Trumpeter 1/24 BF109g-2
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The airbrush is nice. However order a few spare nozzles both of 0,3mm and 0,2mm additionally.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looks very similar to one of the AB airbrush range. I use one of their's, with a detachable side cup, and it's been excellent. Even if it only lasts a year or so, at that price, it's well worth it - I thought mine was cheap, at the equivalent of around $45 !!
Follow the advice given, especially the cleaning, and you should be OK.
But - practice, practice, practice and lots more practice before using it 'live'. Spray onto paper at first, just using water, to get used to the trigger pressure and action, then progress to water colour paints, practicing various fine lines, broad patterns, 'squiggles' and so on, and practice signing your name in your normal signature, as you would using a pen.
Once you're happy with that, try using the paints you'd use on a model, thinning at various ratios, and then move on to spraying on a 'scrap' model. Different types of surface materials will give varying results, and you need to be aware of this, and how the 'brush, and the paints, perform in these circumstances.
Follow the advice given, especially the cleaning, and you should be OK.
But - practice, practice, practice and lots more practice before using it 'live'. Spray onto paper at first, just using water, to get used to the trigger pressure and action, then progress to water colour paints, practicing various fine lines, broad patterns, 'squiggles' and so on, and practice signing your name in your normal signature, as you would using a pen.
Once you're happy with that, try using the paints you'd use on a model, thinning at various ratios, and then move on to spraying on a 'scrap' model. Different types of surface materials will give varying results, and you need to be aware of this, and how the 'brush, and the paints, perform in these circumstances.
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- #43
prem895
Staff Sergeant
I realize that it is not just unpack the unit,plug it in and off we go. I know that I will have to find out how it all works(parts,location, pressure, maintenance and so on. I think for me the hardest part will be paint-thinner ratios. Oh is it ok to use lacquer thinners because that is what I am used to using to thin paint or do you guys have a better solution? I have started the cockpit assembly and painted portions RML66 as called for. Pics tonight. I am not very happy with the uneven paint. This airbrush,when it arrives and I feel comfortable using it will probably be the most important tool I will have.Can't wait to see some nice even paint work.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Generally, it's best to use the thinner designed for the paint type - enamel thinners, or white spirit (Turps substitute), for example, when using enamel paints. It's possible that lacquer thinners might cause separation of the pigments, as thinning ratios are much higher when spraying, compared to brush painting, normally at least 50/50, and often as high as 60 thinners to 40 paint, or even higher.
This is what I meant by practice - not just getting used to the operation of the 'brush, but more importantly, how thinning affects paint flow, adherence, and final appearance. This, related to air pressure and distance from the surface, can and will have broadly differing effects.
This is what I meant by practice - not just getting used to the operation of the 'brush, but more importantly, how thinning affects paint flow, adherence, and final appearance. This, related to air pressure and distance from the surface, can and will have broadly differing effects.
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- #45
prem895
Staff Sergeant
AF, so if I am using MM,Revell or Hu enamels,It would be safe to say use varsol? I have noticed on occasion that the L thinner have caused the paint to wrinkle. And you are absolutely right,mix ratios,pressure and distance will be the hardest to adapt to. Looking forward to play with my new toy when it arrives. I just bought a cheap gun for the time being,so I can get used to it,and then I will venture onto a better model.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I'm not familiar with the varsol name, presumably a brand name? but yes, any enamel thinners with enamel paint - I just use white spirit. The 'wrinkling' is a sure sign of reaction of the thinners with the paint.
The airbrush you are looking at getting may be more than suitable for your needs - it doesn't have to be the most expensive Rolls Royce (or Cadillac!) of 'brushes to be good. Most airbrushes were originally designed for extremely high, continuous usage rates in graphics studios and similar, hence the relatively high price, whereas in modelling, in any given situation, they won't be used at anywhere near what the tolerances were designed for. Rather like using a 10 ton truck to take an empty burger wrapper to the dump!
My brush is probably from the same production line as the one you're buying, and I've used it for over four years without problems, including a lot of very fine-line work, when it turns out results every bit as good as, possibly better than, some brushes costing five or six times what I paid.
The airbrush you are looking at getting may be more than suitable for your needs - it doesn't have to be the most expensive Rolls Royce (or Cadillac!) of 'brushes to be good. Most airbrushes were originally designed for extremely high, continuous usage rates in graphics studios and similar, hence the relatively high price, whereas in modelling, in any given situation, they won't be used at anywhere near what the tolerances were designed for. Rather like using a 10 ton truck to take an empty burger wrapper to the dump!
My brush is probably from the same production line as the one you're buying, and I've used it for over four years without problems, including a lot of very fine-line work, when it turns out results every bit as good as, possibly better than, some brushes costing five or six times what I paid.
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- #47
prem895
Staff Sergeant
Varsol is what we call white spirits.It would be great to have a brush that was under $20 to work just fine for a few yrs at least. More $'s saved=more in the stash.I think lacquer thinner is a little too strong for the applications i am doing. You always teach me something. Thank AF. Totally appreciated Gary
Crimea_River
Marshal
Lacquer thinner can work fine with enamels. I've used it for years and the only trouble I've had was when I thinned some Testors Dullcoat with it and sprayed it over an acrylic paint which resulted in a bit of clouding. You're right that it is strong, or "hot", which is the term that sometimes describes this. In fact, if you applied it directly to the styrene and let it sit there, it would damage the surface. The big advantage is that it's cheap and you can pick up a 2 litre can for about 15 bucks and it'll last forever. It makes a great cleaner for dry paint, which is why I use it now to clean my airbrush. However, Terry is right. The best results will be achieved with the matching thinner. Varsol is a bit of an odd animal. It's used for house paint in smaller ratios and for cleaning brushes but it seems very oily and, in the ratios that you'll want to use with model enamels may not give good results.
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- #49
prem895
Staff Sergeant
Thanks for the info CR, I do like to use LT for painting,also love the smell and your right about varsol it does seem a tad oily. I will post some pit pics tomorrow.I did take some artistic liberties mind you. I think as for as the engine goes I am going to paint it up anyway,even if it will never be seen again due to the fact that I build them with gear up for an in-flight display hanging in my aircraft factory(computer room).but I do need as much practice as possible for the day I do a bird gear down cowl open. I am really looking forward for my airbrush to arrive so I can play around with it and really get a good feel for itbefore I attempt going at this. I am going to practice on the clear sprue of parts I will not be using.Must really concentrate on mix ratios,I think that is where I may run into problems,and after looking at ajcmac's bf109 g6 cockpit painting, it is so even unlike mine painted with regular brush.
- Thread starter
- #50
prem895
Staff Sergeant
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, looks OK to me.
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- #53
prem895
Staff Sergeant
The pit. See the dog hair. Some engine shots. I used Hu27003 polished steel on the exhaust stacks and where the prop goes. Looks real good in person. The silver is Rev 99. This is me.Not a very handsome old codger 
Attachments
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks not bad at all. Once thing you're going to have trouble with is that the angle of the shelf holding the IP should be 90 degrees to the firewall. As it is now, you'll need to bend the assembly to properly fit into the fuselage half.
Those knobs on the trim wheels are news to me.
Those knobs on the trim wheels are news to me.
All looks very good, Gary. The old codger too.
The the dog hair can be removed with tweezers. Not too difficult work. And a tip for future... all stamp traces that can be seen ( e.g. in the seat basin ) , should be removed either by sanding down or filling with a puty and sanding. Just there weren't such ones in reality.
And I agree with Andy on the knobs on the trim wheels. I have never seen any of these there.
The the dog hair can be removed with tweezers. Not too difficult work. And a tip for future... all stamp traces that can be seen ( e.g. in the seat basin ) , should be removed either by sanding down or filling with a puty and sanding. Just there weren't such ones in reality.
And I agree with Andy on the knobs on the trim wheels. I have never seen any of these there.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
I do like the Oka cheese though. One of my favourites.
- Thread starter
- #57
prem895
Staff Sergeant
I am going to give you a beating
Crimea_River
Marshal
Huh?
Here a few shots of the G-2 cockpit interior ... http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/walkaround/10639/10639.htm
