Weathering, Wear, and Overall Use: Modeling Techniques

[Airframes]

That diorama sounds good Chris, shame it's gone to the Great Display Cabinet in the Sky!
I think Wayne does it both ways, and you can do some on the gloss coat, but quite often, depending on what you are using, it might not 'stick' to the gloss. I normally do the main stuff on the matt paint (if I've used matt paint, as I sometimes use gloss paint first, then do a matt coat.), then apply the clear gloss, then, if possible, and if required, do some more weathering etc, then the matt coat. If it is still needed, or I want a 'fresh' look to, for example, paint chips, then this is done last, whilst doing any retouching etc.

 

[Wayne Little]

ahhhh, I believe Wayne had his panel line weathering AFTER the gloss coat. Thats the stuff that confusing

The primary panel line work is done on the matt paint before the Gloss coat.
The gloss coat seals it in and prevents it from damage.

There is still some more pages to come in my short series....relating to some minor or secondary pastel work that can be done on the Gloss coat.

Further pastel and weathering can be done after the Matt coat has been applied over the gloss, in the final stages of the build....

...and great explanation Terry!

 

[lesofprimus]

Ummmm, ok, now I'm totally confused...

Or fu*ked....

I did some panel line work on the matte paint, then glossed it... Tried to detail on gloss and couldnt... Sprayed it flat/matte and the current detail/weathering Im doin now goes on good....

So now I gotta gloss spray it VERY LIGHTLY and then flat/matte it one last time to kill the slight shine??? It already looks perfectly matte coated right now....

 

[Airframes]

Thanks Wayne, thought I'd respond due to the time differences!
Dan, if you are happy with the finish, and there is no risk of the weathering etc being smudged or damaged, then leave it. If, however, there is pastel and/or pencil work that could rub offf with time, the another clear coat is reccomended. This does not need to be gloss, as all you are doing now is sealing-in the pencil work etc. IF you think it needs it, give it a thin clear coat of the same finish you used as the final coat, ie, matt or semi-matt, the latter being nearer for a Luftwaffe aircraft. Then, that bit is done, and it's onwards and upwards, with lots of pics to follow!

 

[lesofprimus]

Check my build thread Terry for the latest pics.... U tell me, does it need more matte??

 

[Wayne Little]

Ok next couple of pages up...

 

[Airframes]

Excellent work Wayne! Well written, clear, concise and with good supporting photography. Another one for my files! Thanks for the work you've put in mate.

 

[Wayne Little]

Thanks Mate, appreciate your comments!

 

[Matt308]

Thanks so much, Wayne. I've saved all of them into my modeling files. Excellent guides, I must say.

 

[lesofprimus]

Great stuff Wayne, love the explainations.... Thanks again for takin the time...

 

[Wayne Little]

You're welcome Guys!

 

[rochie]

with the guy's wayne excellent guides thanks a lot mate

 

[Njaco]

MUCH, much better than anything I've ever found in Modeling guides!!

 

[Wayne Little]

Aw,shucks.... Thanks guys....

 

[B-17engineer]

I read an article it came with one of my models of a B-17 that "Crash Landed" and one of the wheels weren't down and they said they Burn the plastic propeller and bent it back and it had this cool affect of actually looking bent.

 

[109ROAMING]

Just get it to a temp of "sofning -melting' I once did it by accident with a B-24J ( 1/48 ) big F**k up that one

 

[B-17engineer]

Oh ok thanks!

 

[Airframes]

It's much better to do it using hot (not boiling) water, in order to avoid melting the part.
Make sure, however, that you hold the part with something, pliers for instance, so that you don't burn your hands.
Hold the part in the hot water for about 20 to 30 seconds, then, take it out, and GENTLY start the bend. If needed, put it back into the hot water, and repeat the bending exrecise until the desired angle/bend is achieved. Do NOT try to rush and do it all in one go; the part will probably stress on the curve of the bend, and then snap. Patience is the watchword, and it doesn't take that long to do.

 

[Maglar]

Just downloaded and looked it over Wayne, thank you so much. On my other forum they use an airbrush and preshade black but knowing my hand I would jerk the airbrush or glops of paint would shoot everywhere.. I will try this on my model tomorrow, postshade for the win!

 

[Wayne Little]

No worries Maglar, hope it helps!