What's on The Workbench (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter Heinz
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good start Rob. For the type of windows on the DC-3, normal liquid poly cement can be used safely, applying it to the 'spare' plastic each side of the window. A bead of PVA or Micro Kristal Klear can also be run around the outer edges, to seal it all.
A4K
Brigadier General
Terry, what sort of fluid is Kristal Klear? (ie, what is it basically?).
Ordered it once from Scotland as we can't get it here, but the package 'disappeared' enroute. We tracked it, and turned out the UK posties had destroyed it (without informing me or the shop) as fluids are no longer allowed to be posted abroad.
If you can tell what the basic properties of this stuff are, I'll try and find a local substitute. Cheers!
Ordered it once from Scotland as we can't get it here, but the package 'disappeared' enroute. We tracked it, and turned out the UK posties had destroyed it (without informing me or the shop) as fluids are no longer allowed to be posted abroad.
If you can tell what the basic properties of this stuff are, I'll try and find a local substitute. Cheers!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Evan, it's basically a 'refined' PVA. It may be slightly 'thicker' than standard PVA 'white glue', and guaranteed to dry clear. To be honest, most of the time, I use a PVA obtained from the local stationery stores, only using KK where a bit more 'grip' is needed, or for making small windows.
BTW, I think the British Post Office will still allow some fluids to go by surface mail, but best to check with the supplier if they are in the UK.
BTW, I think the British Post Office will still allow some fluids to go by surface mail, but best to check with the supplier if they are in the UK.
Rob, those decals really look good..
A4K
Brigadier General
Terry, thanks mate!
I wonder if it's similar to (or the same as) the 'canopy glue' I saw once here...had a very PVA-ish smell about it. (I Ithink it was Gunze-sangyo or similar)
If so, how would you apply it to create a window? I'm guessing you have to put a large drop on a toothpick or something, apply to a corner and pull it to the opposite side?
How even (or not) is the finished window, and does it work over curved surfaces aswell as flat?
(Please excuse the 1000 questions!
)
cheers!
Btw, I did ask about surface mail, but seems that's disallowed aswell - nothing metal or fluid since bloody 9/11...
I wonder if it's similar to (or the same as) the 'canopy glue' I saw once here...had a very PVA-ish smell about it. (I Ithink it was Gunze-sangyo or similar)
If so, how would you apply it to create a window? I'm guessing you have to put a large drop on a toothpick or something, apply to a corner and pull it to the opposite side?
How even (or not) is the finished window, and does it work over curved surfaces aswell as flat?
(Please excuse the 1000 questions!
)cheers!
Btw, I did ask about surface mail, but seems that's disallowed aswell - nothing metal or fluid since bloody 9/11...
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
You're right Evan. Most, if not all, of these so-called glues for clear parts are nothing more than PVA, albeit perhaps thicker.
And yes again, that's how windows are made - pull it across the aperture until it just fills it, creating a membrane, not a 'lump', and when it fully cures, it's clear. It works to an extent on small curved areas, but not so much on compound curves, due to gravity and the laws of ... er .. physics I guess!
However, it can be applied in 'layers', and teased out to create, for example, the domed clear covers on anti-collision beacons, nav lamps etc.
A word of warning though - use it after painting and clear coats, as it can't really be masked, and certainly any acrylic or water-based varnish will cloud it.
And yes again, that's how windows are made - pull it across the aperture until it just fills it, creating a membrane, not a 'lump', and when it fully cures, it's clear. It works to an extent on small curved areas, but not so much on compound curves, due to gravity and the laws of ... er .. physics I guess!
However, it can be applied in 'layers', and teased out to create, for example, the domed clear covers on anti-collision beacons, nav lamps etc.
A word of warning though - use it after painting and clear coats, as it can't really be masked, and certainly any acrylic or water-based varnish will cloud it.
A4K
Brigadier General
Many thanks Terry!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
You're welcome mate.
Cheers Rob!
A4K
Brigadier General
My latest progress:
OOB Revell Swordfish airframe has been airbrushed, and will be gloss coated when oil cooler is finished.
Still working on the engine assembly and prop, these will be installed when airframe has been completed.
The HMS Haifax has finally had her false keel straightened (had a bad warp), and rib work in progress.
OOB Revell Swordfish airframe has been airbrushed, and will be gloss coated when oil cooler is finished.
Still working on the engine assembly and prop, these will be installed when airframe has been completed.
The HMS Haifax has finally had her false keel straightened (had a bad warp), and rib work in progress.
Catch22
Major
Nicely done!
A4K
Brigadier General
Cheers guys! Two firsts - my first airbrush job, and my frist ship
Wojtek, would love to see you get into the 'Hind...and thanks for the advice on fixing the warp!
Wojtek, would love to see you get into the 'Hind...and thanks for the advice on fixing the warp!
You'r welcome my friend.
I have almost completed all decks ,windows , doors and many other details for the ship. But I have to make a new false keel with bulkheads. The old one got bended due to long time stashing.
ALso the painting work on the Swordfish is done great. I like the kind of painted surface. Very "smooth" without any chunks of dust etc..
Do you expect any troubles with attaching of the top wing? I think it should be done in another way because of rigging. It allows to make it without a problem with attaching of these stiffening lines.
I have almost completed all decks ,windows , doors and many other details for the ship. But I have to make a new false keel with bulkheads. The old one got bended due to long time stashing.
ALso the painting work on the Swordfish is done great. I like the kind of painted surface. Very "smooth" without any chunks of dust etc..
Do you expect any troubles with attaching of the top wing? I think it should be done in another way because of rigging. It allows to make it without a problem with attaching of these stiffening lines.
love the stringbag Evan
A4K
Brigadier General
Cheers guys!
Unfortunately there are small mistakes of course, but overall she looks the part I think. (Practice, practice, practice...)
Masking the cheatlines was difficult due to all the curves, and most had to be touched up with the paint brush.
I probably won't be rigging her Wojtek, as Ivett wants her 'clean' - no weathering, rigging, radar or armament.
The rigging on the Stringbag was quite complex, but I think a 'simplified' version could be achieved by first checking the dihedral of the struts in relation to attachment points on lower wing (to save nasty surprises later), drilling small holes at the rigging points on lower surface of upper wing, and gluing seperate lengths of rigging in place.
When dry, these could be stretched taut and glued to the lower end of the struts, trimming when dry, and whole upper wing assembly fitted in place.
(Small slots would have to be made at the strut attachment points of lower wing first to allow for the angle of the rigging wires)
If gluing the struts to the lower wing first (as kit instructions suggest), same method could be applied in reverse.
Fueslage to wing rigging I would probably do by drilling holes at fueslage and wing points, threading rigging wire from the inside of the fueslage (loose ends coming out via engine mount hole), gluing in place at wing rigging points when wing in place, and when dry, pulling rigging wires taut from nose, cementing inside the lip, and trimming when dry. With the engine fitted you won't see a thing.
Will try this method shortly on the next practice kit...
Unfortunately there are small mistakes of course, but overall she looks the part I think. (Practice, practice, practice...)
Masking the cheatlines was difficult due to all the curves, and most had to be touched up with the paint brush.
I probably won't be rigging her Wojtek, as Ivett wants her 'clean' - no weathering, rigging, radar or armament.
The rigging on the Stringbag was quite complex, but I think a 'simplified' version could be achieved by first checking the dihedral of the struts in relation to attachment points on lower wing (to save nasty surprises later), drilling small holes at the rigging points on lower surface of upper wing, and gluing seperate lengths of rigging in place.
When dry, these could be stretched taut and glued to the lower end of the struts, trimming when dry, and whole upper wing assembly fitted in place.
(Small slots would have to be made at the strut attachment points of lower wing first to allow for the angle of the rigging wires)
If gluing the struts to the lower wing first (as kit instructions suggest), same method could be applied in reverse.
Fueslage to wing rigging I would probably do by drilling holes at fueslage and wing points, threading rigging wire from the inside of the fueslage (loose ends coming out via engine mount hole), gluing in place at wing rigging points when wing in place, and when dry, pulling rigging wires taut from nose, cementing inside the lip, and trimming when dry. With the engine fitted you won't see a thing.
Will try this method shortly on the next practice kit...
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Nice work Evan!
