1/48 Heinkel He-111

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Good for the grandchildren, congratulations for yours.
We could not wait to see it finished because of a commitment yesterday, but they did not let us go without crowning the tip of the Christmas tree.
Granddaughters are the adoration of my wife. We still do not put ours ...

Saludos abuelo amigo
 
maybe use PVA. I find this to be the least invasive for clear parts. It dries strong but takes a long time to get there....


Or did I completely misunderstand.....in which case I apologise for the intrusion
 
Welcome to the talk Michael,... just like Andy I think the PVA does not resist sanding.
It occurs to me that the size of each new hole for each window can be a bit larger to give more distance between what will be the window and the area where the fuselage will join the clear polystyrene piece.
I have also considered making a single opening for the 2 windows on each side. I have to see that the pieces that I showed in the last pic of post # 133 are thick enough to allow it to adhere well in the hole and allow enough sanding to give the contour of the fuselage (as indicated in photo 3 of the post # 127 of Wojtek).

It will be something that I start in this week, so, I will be attentive to your comments and I will be sharing the progress.

Buenas noches (desde aquí) y saludos a todos
 
Hello people!

When I applied the black for my project of the dials, I took the opportunity to paint the rims, propellers and the dorsal gun, the only machine gun that our AW177 has, yesterday I applied the black XF-69 to the tires.



... and so will these pieces remain until I can get out of what awaits me with the inside of the entire fuselage !!

The process of the IPs was slow ... I applied the RLM66 to all the pieces. I must confess that I did not stay with the desire and I lowered the dark tone with a 30% light gray XF-66 and it is not very noticeable, but I like that you can perceive a certain difference with the tone of everything else inside.

I removed the liquid masks from the dials and painted the outline of each dial by hand, with a sharp toothpick, an acupuncture needle or a 10/0 brush, depending on the size of the dial. Then apply droplets of clear X-22 with other sharp toothpick.

Then I colored the "balls" of the cranks and painted the other buttons and bases of the console and IPs.

Another occurrence that I had was that, instead of applying a dark gray or black to the frames of each dial, as well as the back of each of those that will be visible behind the IP, I used black green XF-27 ( it pleased as it was already looks at the distance, and in those miniatures, ...it will be practically irrelevant) and finally the wiring in light gray. The last thing was to apply a wash with oil paints.

This is the result in photographs ...




Well, it seems that it is time to address the issue of the bomb bay windows, ... I have some uncertainty and enthusiasm combined in a strange feeling, but I hope to get a good learning of this new adventure in my modelism skills.

Saludos
 
Good stuff Luis.
Note that the prop blades would have been RLM 70 'Schwargrun'. Also, the receiver of the MG15 (the 'body', aft of the magazine) had a wooden 'sleeve' over it.
 
Good stuff Luis.
Note that the prop blades would have been RLM 70 'Schwargrun'. Also, the receiver of the MG15 (the 'body', aft of the magazine) had a wooden 'sleeve' over it.

Thanks Terry for your comments.

Regarding the blades, the kit instructions indicate matt black (which is not expected to be true), I know that the Luftwaffe used RLM 70 (I have it from Model Air).
I had not stopped yet to check, but in addition to not easily distinguish the color in the B & W photos of our AW177, I see that in others He-111 (color photos), have the RLM 70


(photos obtained from the internet)

... and they do not use the yellow tips, as is the case with our ...


(photos obtained from the internet)

... and that because of the wear and tear I see in some photos, I do not think they were painted in black, ... and they only painted the yellow tips. So yes our prop blades will go in RLM 70 with yellow tips.
Any other opinions or comments?

Among other photos that I have of the MG15, indeed the handle (sleeve) looks very elegant in wood.


(photos obtained from the internet)

It will be very nice to give it the correct form, because the one in the kit is very "rough" and I have a way to improve the appearance, and it will look like that wood finish.

Thank you again for your observation Terry.
 
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Luis she is looking good Sir
Hello Kevin, I'm glad to see you here and thanks for your words.
What do you think about what we are converting this classic Monogram Kit. I hope to do the honors to the kit you kindly gave me.
I continue learning and enjoying this process and we will see how the journey in which I got with the new windows turns out !!

Saludos amigo
 
To start with these new windows, it seemed to me opportune to start seeing the material options for the new crystals.

So I started taking the appropriate sizes to make them. I have decided to make a single piece to embed in the fuselage and from there to mask the two windows of each side.

- The case of razors to shave. (It is the one that has better transparency, but is relatively thin).



- The CD box. (I had to give it a good polish to remove the scratches and opacity)



- I decided to add an acrylic tray, which I used before to simulate the spinning propellers of my Corsair. I like it because it is the thickest and it would allow me to have better control when positioning it and more margin for filing, sanding and polishing on the outside. (I also had to give a thorough polish !!)



Studying the space to cut the fuselage, the molding of the wing root is very close to the windows, so that was my lower limit to make the cut (matches horizontally with a panel line to the front, so that it will be the lower base of the cut) ...
I leave in photos the measurements and strokes to make the new windows are more similar to those originally brought by the kit behind the bombs bay ...



And so was the process of surgery ...



Instead of painting with pencil or pen to demarcate the area to be cut, I better delimited it with Tamiya tape. But to make the pieces transparent, I did it upside down, the tape has the required measure of 10 x 32 mm. and I'll just have to file and sand to the edge of the tape.



I chose to do the work on the acrylic and the piece of the CD box, because I think they will be better options, and I do the test in both to see which is better.
But that will be tomorrow and I tell you how things are going.

Se aceptan comentarios, ... hasta pronto!
 
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Looking good Luis. However you could cut out the hole for the front windows much smaller. the 1,0 cm seems to be too much. IMHO it would be enough to have this of 0,7cm ( 7mm).

 

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