1/72 Scale S2G Tracker 816 squadron

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parsifal

Colonel
13,354
2,133
Apr 6, 2008
Orange NSW
I enjoyed my first build so much I decided to launch into my second. In this build I wanted to

1) learn how to use the air brush
2) undertake modifications to the standard kit

The kit is Hasegawa 1/72 S2F-1 is US livery, dating back to 1970. The kit is okay, but is not perfect for the purposes I want to achieve. As an F-1 it has slightly different dimensions to the E/G models used by the RAN. The cockpit interior is poor,, in that it does not fit well, and is completely lacking in any details at all of the aft crew spaces. The F-1 has some kind of array over the cockpit, which is just not there in RAN aircraft. The MAD probe is not shown.

After some thought I decided to give it a go and undertake some modification to the kit to more accurately reflect the aircraft in RAN service. Wildcat very kindly directed me to a an aftermarket decals kit and paint scheme that I have ordered and should arrive this week some time.

The mods I am going to attempt include cutting the passageway leading from the cockpit to the crew area. I will install decking and some basic depiction of this interior. They will be fairly rudimentary because you wont see much of them, and I am going to have enough trouble doing this without over-complication the interior detailing. I am going to plate over and putty the hole for the forward array that I have not seen in photos of the RAN aircraft. I am going to install a better depiction of the MAD probe, that wil be retractable. The underside surface radome will also be retractable.

After some serious scratching around the internet, I finally found some interior shots of the bird

So here goes. First a series of shots showing some of the photographic records that I have found...
 

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Some further photographic images
 

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I was get a little sad when I see aircraft that I have been around reduced to wrecks in a boneyard. Anyway some further research shots
 

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Final research shots
 

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Progress so far
 

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Yeah, I did. its 2.6mm solid styrene housed inside a 4mm tube stryene. This allows the boom to be extended or retracted.

That was okay, but now I have lost the boom heads, which I cut off the model...aaargh.

I also had to use a round needle file to increase the size of the boom housing on the fuselage itself.

The decking and seats and console aft of the cockpit firewall are also scratch built. The bigest problem with this kit incidentally is that the cockpit array and the wheel bays dont fit together very well.
 
Here's some pics that I used from my build...
 

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Thanks Matt

I knew that you had done a Stoof quite recently,and was going to PM you for information....you beat me to it. The photographic information will be very useful, thoough I notice differences already with the Aussie layouts.

I am still considering whether to try to put in control columns to the front cockpit area. What is the general consensus guys???
 
Nice work so far, and yes, put the columns in. I agree with you about seeing the aircraft in the 'boneyard' like that. Always seems a darn shame to see something just rotting away, especially if you've worked with the type. It's like watching an old friend withering away.
 
Good Pic's of the S2F. Wish I had a nickel for everytime I launched off the carrier USS Essex in one of them.

Charles
 
I started to scratch build control columns. remember they come right out of the forward panel. They are relatively easy to make with wire. I was going to do the control columns and the engine throttles (overhead panel). But it became very apparent that there was no possibility of seeing such detail through the Hasegawa supplied cockpit canopy. I commend you on the aft cabin detail. Are you going to open the starboard hatch to see it? I also recommend gluing your search radar housing in place (extended or retracted). Mine as a pretty loose fit and moves around quite a bit.
 
Hi Matt

The control sticks for our Gs cpme out of the floor as i recall, and there is some photographic evidence to support that. Just the same, I am interested to know how to use wire to make these parts. I was going to use some leftovers from my skyhawk build. I can see how wire would make the overhead throttles look pretty neat.

Thanks for the commendation , I was a bit embarrassed by it to be honest, but I also thought Hasegawas depiction was just too lame to be tolerated.

I was thinking about making the rear hatch openable but dont have much idea how to make that work....any suggestions???

Lastly, despite an extensive search of available photos, and racking my own memory of the thing, I cannot find any depictions or recollections of the radome above the cockpit in any RAN versions of the tracker. Were they fitted to the E G subtypes? I am inclined to think not

I completed the assmbly of the engine nacelles and wing assemblies. There are no undercarriage bays as such which really sucks

Undertook my first airbrush session tonite, will post pictures tomorrow. I think it went okay
 
Simple small guage wire works well to make small parts as they hold their shape and yet are maleable. You can get great curves by bending the wire around a piece of material of the needed diameter (e.g., pen, screwdriver or any other "shaft"). Work it like you would a pipe bender to get perfect radii.

Here is as far as I got before I realized that I was wasting my time (note that is a relavant statement and is not meant to insult your endeavor... just a balance of my time and my take on result). These were to be the telescoping control columns. I was going to settle for offset pitch columns knowing the thick clear plastic likely would hide it anyway. But the more I looked the more I realized that it was going to hide much more than that. Obviously they will require cleaning up (filing) and painting. You could do the same for control sticks and fit them into a nicely drilled hole in the cockpit deck for structural integrity.

More power to ya. Yours is coming along nicely. I would like to do another one with the stinger extended. Something to think about if you want to avoid having to build gear bays and all those dang actuators.
 

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Nice project, looking forward to more progress shots. Your build is great Matt! 8)
 

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