nice Terry!
1/72 T-6G Texan - OOB (Out of Box) unofficial GB-2015.
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks guys!
Yes it's a MkIII (possibly MkIV) used by what was the A&AE at Boscombe Down (where GeeDee works), used as a 'chase plane' and other duties,later operated by Qinetiq.
Yes it's a MkIII (possibly MkIV) used by what was the A&AE at Boscombe Down (where GeeDee works), used as a 'chase plane' and other duties,later operated by Qinetiq.
GrauGeist
Generalfeldmarschall zur Luftschiff Abteilung
Last time I saw an aircraft molded in yellow plastic, it was a F9F Panther kit given to me by my Uncle Bill back in the 60's! 
Your project is coming along real nice!
Your project is coming along real nice!
- Thread starter
- #24
at6
1st Sergeant
Sorry about not posting progress, but am having a devil of a time with the canopy. I keep having to soak it in Simple green and start over. Hopefully I will have satisfactory results with it sometime in this lifetime.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Hope you get it sorted - looking forward to some pics.
parsifal
Colonel
looks good to me,buts whats simple green? Just call me simple Mike!
fubar57
General
If I may....Simple Green is a high-quality, environmentally safe cleaning product. To me, it's a vile smelling liquid.
Geo
Geo
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
Built one of these back when they were new....
I've got them as well in 1/48, the Italeri and one, no wait.....I've got two of the Modelcraft Mk. 4(!), oh well, there you go, thought that I had one of each!
Looking forward to the next update mate!
I've got them as well in 1/48, the Italeri and one, no wait.....I've got two of the Modelcraft Mk. 4(!), oh well, there you go, thought that I had one of each!
Looking forward to the next update mate!
Crimea_River
Marshal
What's the problem?
- Thread starter
- #30
at6
1st Sergeant
I'm not happy with the canopy frames when it's unmasked. Also, the paint comes off in places at the same time. The beauty of Simple Green is the ability to remove paint without damaging the plastic.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
How about trying the method I used ?
Lay some clear 'Sellotape' ('Scotch' tape) on a piece of glass, and paint the interior colour of the frames first. Once fully dry, paint the exterior colour and allow to dry thoroughly.Then, carefully cut the required width into strips, using a new blade in the scalpel, and position on the canopy where required.
Once in position, burnish down on the strips, gently, using the butt of the scalpel handle, and trim-off any excess tape.
Once all are in place, they can be sealed with a dip in 'Future' (or applied by brush). If a matt finish is needed on the frames, use a fine brush to apply the matt clear coat to cover the gloss of the 'Future'.
The beauty of this method, although a bit fiddly in this scale, is that, if the 'frame' is in the wrong place, it cam be lifted and re-applied, and saves some awkward masking.
Lay some clear 'Sellotape' ('Scotch' tape) on a piece of glass, and paint the interior colour of the frames first. Once fully dry, paint the exterior colour and allow to dry thoroughly.Then, carefully cut the required width into strips, using a new blade in the scalpel, and position on the canopy where required.
Once in position, burnish down on the strips, gently, using the butt of the scalpel handle, and trim-off any excess tape.
Once all are in place, they can be sealed with a dip in 'Future' (or applied by brush). If a matt finish is needed on the frames, use a fine brush to apply the matt clear coat to cover the gloss of the 'Future'.
The beauty of this method, although a bit fiddly in this scale, is that, if the 'frame' is in the wrong place, it cam be lifted and re-applied, and saves some awkward masking.
Crimea_River
Marshal
For masking, I use Tamiya tape. I start with thin strips and outline the edges of the frames, Once that's done, I full in the inner areas with larger pieces. It's important to make sure the edges of the tape are firmly burnished down so as not to allow any paint to bleed through. A toothpick works well. If the paint is not sticking, it's likely you are using acrylic which has poor adhesion to smooth surfaces without a primer. Use enamel or lacquer based paints instead.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with Andy - if masking and painting the canopy, that's the way to go.
Additionally, if the outlines of the frames can be clearly seen, and especially if 'raised', on small parts, such as found in this scale, it's often easier to mask over the frames, as well as the area(s) requiring masks, then use a sharp pencil, preferably the retractable type, which has a fine tip, which has been sanded to a 'chisel blade' shape on fine wet 'n dry or fine sandpaper, to mark the edges of the frames. This is easier still where the frames are raised or engraved.
Once marked, then use a new blade in the scalpel, and lightly, and very carefully, cut along the pencil lines, and remove the tape.
This should leave clean, sharp areas where the frames are, but, as mentioned by Andy, burnish the remaining edges of the masks to prevent paint bleed.
Additionally, if the outlines of the frames can be clearly seen, and especially if 'raised', on small parts, such as found in this scale, it's often easier to mask over the frames, as well as the area(s) requiring masks, then use a sharp pencil, preferably the retractable type, which has a fine tip, which has been sanded to a 'chisel blade' shape on fine wet 'n dry or fine sandpaper, to mark the edges of the frames. This is easier still where the frames are raised or engraved.
Once marked, then use a new blade in the scalpel, and lightly, and very carefully, cut along the pencil lines, and remove the tape.
This should leave clean, sharp areas where the frames are, but, as mentioned by Andy, burnish the remaining edges of the masks to prevent paint bleed.
- Thread starter
- #34
at6
1st Sergeant
Normally I use a liquid mask and Testors enamel paint. I think the problem is primarily due to attemting to hand paint thr frames rather than airbrushing them. I'm going back to my airbrush after I finish the masking again. Thanks for all of the suggestions about tape, but I always ruined my canopies when I tried that so I went back to Micro-mark liquid.
fubar57
General
On my 1/48 Texans, I masked and painted the vertical sections and when dry, I did the same to the horizontal sections. A much longer process but as a brush painter, it works for me.
Geo
Geo
- Thread starter
- #36
at6
1st Sergeant
It's nearly two years and I'm still working on the little turd. Almost done now that I have it decaled. Heller made nice models but supplied crap for decals. I've had to use decals from three kits to do one.
A4K
Brigadier General
Onto this late, but good stuff Larry! Have 4 sets of Academy and one set of Airfix markings spare if you need any more!
How did the canopy go btw? I can give you a spare Academy one (or two) if you need, and if no-one has any objections. I will be using Falcon clear vac canopies for mine.
How did the canopy go btw? I can give you a spare Academy one (or two) if you need, and if no-one has any objections. I will be using Falcon clear vac canopies for mine.
- Thread starter
- #38
at6
1st Sergeant
Thank you. The canopy has turned out OK. Kept using Simple Green to strip it each time I had to start over. I like Simple Green because it isn't as harmful to plastic as some chemicals are. Auto parts stores sell something called Purple Cleaner but that stuff will damage plastic as will ammonia. I don't like using brake fluid since it is a little too hard to clean up. I have an Encore kit, Airfix kit and a Revell kit with lots of options for use on the remaining Heller kits. The aforementioned kits all used the Heller molds. I like the Academy kit much better with the exception of the engine. Heller's is better and the parts are all interchangeable between the kits. I wonder if there will be any objections to manufactured gear doors on my next ones?
A4K
Brigadier General
Good stuff Larry!
Interesting too all those kits being the same mould. I figured Airfix would be, like their Spitfire Mk.I and Fw190D-9 moulds, being part of the Heller- Humbrol family at the time. Not sure who produced the original moulds (though I would put money on Airfix with the Spitfire).
Would agree regarding the Academy kit, and I will be changing the engines too.
Re the gear doors, no problem from me if you want to scratchbuild, though it might infringe the OOB rules of this build. If so, you could post them with the 'Start to finish' build threads.
Interesting too all those kits being the same mould. I figured Airfix would be, like their Spitfire Mk.I and Fw190D-9 moulds, being part of the Heller- Humbrol family at the time. Not sure who produced the original moulds (though I would put money on Airfix with the Spitfire).
Would agree regarding the Academy kit, and I will be changing the engines too.
Re the gear doors, no problem from me if you want to scratchbuild, though it might infringe the OOB rules of this build. If so, you could post them with the 'Start to finish' build threads.
- Thread starter
- #40
at6
1st Sergeant
Those would have to be in the Start to finish thread. The only exception would be if the model was of one without gear doors.
