100th Anniversary Naval Aviation - Curtiss A-1 Triad 1/48th

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This is the kind of model building I like to see. Lots of good techniques here. Keep those posts coming as you are doing great.
 
Working on the main float today. Cut from a piece of basswood. Made 3 because I know I'll mess at least one up.
 

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Working on the engine today. Very pleased with how it turned out. The rest of the details will be added when it goes on the airframe.
 

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Clearly you are not from this planet as no normal human being has these kind of modelling skills. But seriously, if you have not already done so you might want to think about doing some kind of tutorial.Some of the techniques that you use might be second nature to yourself but unknown to others (myself included).
 
Thanks for the nice comments Bruce. I have included a few pics of how this is done. I have done tutorials on vac-forming and making wire wheels that I have posted on this websight. Not many modelers are interested in this kind of stuff. At least not enough to get my tutorials on the "sticky" list. I learned most of it through trial and error. Also, have several scratchbuilding books that are well worth the money if you're interested in this stuff:

The Master Scratbuilders - Alcorn - Schiffer Books - 1990
Scratch Built - Alcorn, Lee Cooke - Schiffer - 1993
Building Model Airplanes From Scratch - Jackson - TAB - 1979

The last one is probably the most useful, lots of "old school" techniques well explained and illustrated.

Also the books from Seperd Paine on building dioramas have lots of good scratchbuiding info.

I used to be afraid of doing stuff like this but have gradually gotten better at it by jumping in and having fun trying new things. My shop (and trash can) are full of the "misses". Most of the materials are not that expensive, especially compared to the price of kits now days and if you goof something up you just make a new one, or make several copies originally and use the best ones (see my floats above).

Have Fun and give it a try !!!

Andy
 
Wings today. Vac-formed .060 clear PETG over my previously made forms.
Other surfaces made from .030.

I'm still experimenting with semi-clear paints trying to reproduce that 'almost see-through' look of clear doped linen. I've tried Future with food coloring added, would take about 50 coats to get it right. Next up I'm going to try 1/2 clear acrylic paint and half tan. Does anybody have any suggestions?
 

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Brilliant!!!!!

There are some tranluscent paints sold out there, but I think you are on the way to do it. Might want to add a few drops of white in it.
 
Thanks for the tip David. If this attempt doesn't work I'll give it a try. I don't usually use acrylic paints and the only place that sells them won't be open until Tues. I'll be working on some other parts until then.
 
Excellent work! I can't think of any other way to get a translucent finish other than cutting Future with an acrylic paint and doing several fast passes with a wide nozzle on the air brush until you get the effect you want.
 

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