A Dewoitine D.520 under Italian flag - From the Azur kit in 1:32
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- Thread starter
- #22
al49
Tech Sergeant
Hello,
Many thanks for the drawing, where that plate will be positioned?
In front of this frame?
I got the undercarriage legs in white metal made by Contact Resine, I will check the length, I hope I will not have to shorten them, because it will be a bit tricky.
Alberto
Many thanks for the drawing, where that plate will be positioned?
In front of this frame?
I got the undercarriage legs in white metal made by Contact Resine, I will check the length, I hope I will not have to shorten them, because it will be a bit tricky.
Alberto
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Some good info and assistance here - a great thing about this forum and the people who 'come' here.
Ain't that the truth..!
- Thread starter
- #26
al49
Tech Sergeant
Hi,
after all the above very interesting discussions, let me show the first pictures of what I've done so far.
To begin cockpit side panel trimmed to size and glued to the fuselage, plus the addition of some plasticard to extend them backwards.
Then the two main deck elements
The radio set comes from my spare box.
Tomorrow I should be able to paint everything in the suggest blue colour.
Some more to come soon
Alberto
after all the above very interesting discussions, let me show the first pictures of what I've done so far.
To begin cockpit side panel trimmed to size and glued to the fuselage, plus the addition of some plasticard to extend them backwards.
Then the two main deck elements
The radio set comes from my spare box.
Tomorrow I should be able to paint everything in the suggest blue colour.
Some more to come soon
Alberto
Hello Al, all
It's a good work
The fuselage continues under the floor. You could put a plastic sheet curved as the drawing (red) on the pic , but at this place, nobody will can't see anything.
The areas under the rear windows was curved and the radio was between these plates.
On this rc model, these areas are correct.
The armor plate had no rivet on the edge, there was both plates 7mm each , fixed by four screw and bolt on the airframe.
It's a good work
The fuselage continues under the floor. You could put a plastic sheet curved as the drawing (red) on the pic , but at this place, nobody will can't see anything.
The areas under the rear windows was curved and the radio was between these plates.
On this rc model, these areas are correct.
The armor plate had no rivet on the edge, there was both plates 7mm each , fixed by four screw and bolt on the airframe.
- Thread starter
- #29
al49
Tech Sergeant
Many thanks!
What I intended to replicate is item 14 in this drawing
and I thought it was a radio set, but may be is something else.
It's crazy that the only book I found available on the D.520 is in Polish, almost impossible for me to read, but with good pictures.
Alberto
What I intended to replicate is item 14 in this drawing
and I thought it was a radio set, but may be is something else.
It's crazy that the only book I found available on the D.520 is in Polish, almost impossible for me to read, but with good pictures.
Alberto
yes it's radio Thomson Ducretet Radio Industrie 537
do you remember this picture I have sent?:
I have a fac simile to sell of D520 manual who describe the airplane in french langage, if you are interested, mp.
do you remember this picture I have sent?:
On the early D520, there was an rectangular door on the area under the left rear window
I have a fac simile to sell of D520 manual who describe the airplane in french langage, if you are interested, mp.
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Alberto .. you attached the radio set just at incorrect place.. The diagram shows it sitting like you did but in fact it was inside the fuselage between these two bended plates making the fuselage interior for the two rear windows. Just the radio "box" wasn't seen from the outside. Here a shot you may find useful...
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- #32
al49
Tech Sergeant
Thanks to waroff and wurger for your comments: in facts I misunderstood the position of the radio set. No problem, this part will go back to the spare box.
Now working to modify the radiator, I will show it tomorrow.
Alberto
Nicely done so far!
- Thread starter
- #36
al49
Tech Sergeant
Many thanks for all comments!!!
I did some progresses in the past days.
First I painted in Blue FS15044 all the cockpit elements.
I will have to spray some semi-gloss varnish on them because everything looks too glowing ... but they fit well inside the fuselage:
To check the fit I dry assembled almost all model and I feel quite worried, look at the gaps I will have to fill or compensate:
The big gap between wings and nose should be covered by item A10 in the instruction, I keep my finger crossed.
On last picture you can see the modified radiator, better seen here:
The other good news is that the rudder fits almost well into the fin recess.
I spent a lot of money to purchase the Contact Resine upgrade kit and it will be very bad if I will not be able to sort out the gap issue so this is now my first priority.
I will stop working on the cockpit and I will start soon on wheels bays in order to get wings done and solid and then deal with the gaps.
Alberto
I did some progresses in the past days.
First I painted in Blue FS15044 all the cockpit elements.
I will have to spray some semi-gloss varnish on them because everything looks too glowing ... but they fit well inside the fuselage:
To check the fit I dry assembled almost all model and I feel quite worried, look at the gaps I will have to fill or compensate:
The big gap between wings and nose should be covered by item A10 in the instruction, I keep my finger crossed.
On last picture you can see the modified radiator, better seen here:
The other good news is that the rudder fits almost well into the fin recess.
I spent a lot of money to purchase the Contact Resine upgrade kit and it will be very bad if I will not be able to sort out the gap issue so this is now my first priority.
I will stop working on the cockpit and I will start soon on wheels bays in order to get wings done and solid and then deal with the gaps.
Alberto
Judging by these pics you posted with the gap in... the problem is with the wing interior. It is possible the wheel bays are too "tall" and disturbing at going deeper the bottom half of the wing into the fuselage. I would suggest fitting of the bottom wing part ( without these top halves ) to the fuselage firstly. I think you need to remove some of plastic from these wing roots and make edges of these wheel bays more rounded. Then you have to fit these top parts. Also I would suggest sanding the front edges of the fuselage at the area of the joint with the rasin nose. However you are right thet the part no. A10 should fill the gap and sanding of the fuselage won't be needed at all. Just check on its fitting.
Could you post a couple of pics of the fuselage taken from the below and the interior of the bottom wing part at the wheel bay areas?
Could you post a couple of pics of the fuselage taken from the below and the interior of the bottom wing part at the wheel bay areas?
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- Thread starter
- #38
al49
Tech Sergeant
Many thanks Wojtek for your answer, I will take the pictures you suggest and post them but my feeling is that more then sanding, I will have to add some kind of material, but will see.
To make the matter even more complicate is that wings dihedral is incorrect, as clearly reported here.
file:///C:/Users/Alberto/MODELLISMO/AEREI/D520/Dewoitine%20D.520%20by%20Ian%20Robertson%20(Azur%201%2032).htm
Cheers
Alberto
Hello,
the dihedral is 3,5° measuring on the longeron topside, or 13,6% 7degrees75 measuring at the underside of the front longeron.
Sand the detail 4, it is a door, no a air outlet.
If you use a tape to maintain the dihedral during the sticking, when you will remove the tape, the elasticity of plastic will change the dihedral.
You can made a jig to obtain the good dihedral, and fix a strip of plastic sheet, thickness 1 or 1,5 on the underside of top wing.
I make as this on the H75 with a strip 3x3mm. thereby the wings have the good dihedral.
On the pictures below you can see the strip (white) between the wings.
the dihedral is 3,5° measuring on the longeron topside, or 13,6% 7degrees75 measuring at the underside of the front longeron.
Sand the detail 4, it is a door, no a air outlet.
If you use a tape to maintain the dihedral during the sticking, when you will remove the tape, the elasticity of plastic will change the dihedral.
You can made a jig to obtain the good dihedral, and fix a strip of plastic sheet, thickness 1 or 1,5 on the underside of top wing.
I make as this on the H75 with a strip 3x3mm. thereby the wings have the good dihedral.
On the pictures below you can see the strip (white) between the wings.
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