Airfix 1/24 scale Bf109E.....or a bed of thorns

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Thank you H~.:)

A few hours later I applied the second layer of Gloss Dope. At the stage the model was ready for decoration with decal markings....
 

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THX..:)

The decoration of the model I started with swastikas that haven't been included to the decal sheet of the kit. I had to added them from my own stock.These are of Techmod and settled down exellently. Then I sticked the JG51 emblem and the pilot's personal one. Unfortunately markings that come with the kit, are thick and as old as the kit. And I was sure I got them scattered when soaking. Therefore I had applied two layers of semi-gloss dope before I could use them. As a result I have had to abandon the idea of using MicroSet and MicroSol liquids. I didn't want to take a risk these would be torn when applying and drying. Instead of that I soaked them with very warm but not hot water.Also , because of their thickness I had to let them sit without going deep into panel lines.:(
 

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I've just caught up after my break and I'm sorry to hear of you compressor problems Wojetk, I know where your coming from as my old one also hated hot weather. This problem however didn't seem to daunt your progress. Once again I'm impressed and so glad your sharing it with us.
 
Thank you Vic. :D Yep..the compressor failure influenced the final work on the model. But I didn't have an choice.

The next step was to put on the model German crosses. Here you are a very useful way of sticking decals and removing water excess. Usually I "soak" the place where a decal has to be located with some water applied with a brush. Then soaked markings that can be moved on the paper backgroung , are slided onto a model surfaces trying to set it at a proper position..If it is needed its location can be corrected by moving ( using a brush). Because there is more water under decal markings and a surface is smooth rather ( gloss dope ) it is easy to do. If decal marking is set at a correct place I put on it a piece of paper towel. I let the towel absorb the water overflow itself. Then I gentle tighten a decal with my fingers through the towel. Finally I use a soft and dry rag to finish applying.
 

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I have another question on the side window. I understand that they came in two parts and the front one slid back some but wouldn't there be some sort of felt stuck there between the windows to act as insulation and to prevent the front widow from scratching the other window as it slid back? It would appear that there is in the photographs and that it is white in color. There seems to also be another line of white toward the back where the other end of the window would sit if it was fully pushed back. Is that right?

I've been looking at walk around pictures and it seems to me that the earlier type 109E canopy with the rounded top did not have anything where the Plexiglas panels met, and the later 109E canopy with the squared off corner had some sort of white strip between the panels
 

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I still think it is the matter of light. Check previous page of the thread...


Below , a state of my Bf109E model after the first "wave" of declas.
 

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:D

Then I added the "Yellow 1" and a few stencils.Also I put bars of victories on the fin.I did it for both of the fuselage sides.
 

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That looks superb Wojtek, it's really come to life now. Great job.
As for the canopy glass, neither the early, rounded canopy, or the later, 'square' canopy, had any form of sealer on aircraft in service. I've looked closely at many pics, including close personal examination of two E4s in the UK, and none have the strip. The second pic showing it is of a preserved aircraft, probably the one in Canada, so this might have been fitted by choice.
 
Thank you Terry. :D Thank you Glenn. :D

And I agree with you Terry about the strips between side glasses of the central hoods for both E-3 and E-4.In addition the one for the E-4 variant had the conopy "ceiling" slided back too.That's why the line can be seen there as well.

All decal markings were put on the model. It was late at night and I had to drive to work and get up early in the morning.... so I hit the sack .
 

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There's also a book that I have that has step by step instuction on how to improve the kit to add more realism.

Hmm, maybe I'll take this out of mothballs for the BoB build. Scratching whiskery chin....

What's the name of this book?


Matt
 

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