Budget Bf109G Build.

Discussion in 'Start to Finish Builds' started by Airframes, Oct 19, 2008.

  1. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    PART ONE.
    In between painting, illustrations and writing the Diorama Guide, I decided to make a start on the 21st Century '109G-14 kit, in 1/32nd. scale.
    In order to see what additions might be needed in the cockpit, I gave the area a quick base coat, to bring out the moulded-in detail. I intended from the start to build this model without using aftermarket accessories, with the exception of an etched seat harness. But, as I have been unable to obtain this, I have had to resort to my usual practice, and make my own!
    The first five pics show the preparation and modifications before assembly began, the main work involving the wheel wells, as the kit's wing is the same as used in this company's '109F kit.
    Photo 1 shows the cockpit walls with the base coat of dark grey. The white pieces are the first additions, made from plastic card, stretched sprue and scrap, and include the fuel line and oxygen regulator.
    Photo 2 shows the plastic card over the 'open' radiator baths on the lower wing; the inner parts were painted matt black. Note the hefty structure of the moulding.
    Photo 3 This is the work in progress to correct the shape of the gear wells. The well on the right is as per the kit, for the 'F' model, whilst the left hand well has been trimmed back to form the correct, 'straight' outer edge. No big job, just a bit of carving and sanding.
    Photo 4. Some of the additional detail added to the cockpit and painted. Next step is to re-touch and tidy up.
    Photo 5 A bit of a'soft' shot, I'm afraid, but this is a general shot of the cockpit. I need to re-paint the dials on the instrument panel, as some of the detail fogged when the clear varnish was added to each instrument. The seat belt is made from cut and shaped pieces taken from an old fabric roller blind, with some buckles and adjusters fabricated from plastic card and scrap photoetch. The shoulder harness will be added later.
    Photo 6 Is a general shot of the assembled cockpit, with a little more weathering and touching up still to be done. The rudder toe straps are made from painted strips of copier paper.
    Photo 7 Here the fuselage is assembled, less the tail fin, and the 'Beule' added. Any filling, and correction of panels/hatches, will be done later. The white card on the rear cockpit bulkhead is covering the slots for the rear section of the 'F' canopy, and includes a piece to represent the stowage hatch cover.
    Photo 8 This shows the plugs that cover the screw holes. (screws not used.) They will be pushed in fully, covered by discs of card, then filled and sanded back.
    Photo 9. The method of attaching the landing gear means that the legs will have to be down during painting. They are designed to retract, but I don't want to risk them snapping or dislodging. It's not a major problem, and the method of installation ensures a strong fix, and the correct angle.
    Photo 10. The tail in place, and the wings joined and fitted. This was the hardest part, as there are so many joining pegs, ensuring a good tight fit of the wing, that I had to keep separating the halves and re-glueing, whilst at the same time, trying to keep the moveable slats in place! The tape is holding the wing to fuselage joint until set, and maintaining dihedral. Once everything is fully set, any filling and sanding will be done, before fitting the tailplanes, upper wing blisters, supercharger intake and oil cooler bath. I intend to add a piece of scrap PE mesh to the latter, and, when nearly finished, aileron mass balances will need to be scratch-built.
    I hope to be able to bring you more pics soon, as the build, and the painting, progresses.
    Overall, I'm very pleased with this kit. The fit of parts, particularly the cockpit, is excellent, much better than a certain manufacturer's recent 1/32nd Mustang, and some of the assembly methods should, I feel, be copied by other kit producers. Considering this kit cost much less than the average 1/48th scale fighter, it really is good, and tremendous value for money. Reccommended!
     

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  2. B-17engineer

    B-17engineer Active Member

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    Terry,

    It looks GREAT!

    Why did you put cardboard over the open radioator though......Sorry I am just curious because after my diorama I want to get back into planes
     
  3. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    The plastic card over the inside of the radiator baths is to stop it looking 'empty' when viewed from the front. Even though the actual intake is very shallow, it might have looked wrong when finished. As the 'box' is now only about 3 or 4mm deep, and painted matt black inside, the lack of radiator matrix or other detail won't be noticed.
    If by any chance you heard the feint echo of swear words drifting across the Atlantic about half an hour ago, that was me! As I was removing the tape from the wings, I dropped the b****y model, and the port wing to fuselage joint sprung part! Now I've got to start on that bit again. B*****ks!
     
  4. Maximowitz

    Maximowitz Active Member

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    I'm liking this one a lot old chap! Who's Gustav will it be? Anyone in particular?
     
  5. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Not quite sure yet, Old Boy! Possibly from JG2, or maybe JG26 or JG53. I need to find some pics with the gondolas underneath, and clear views of the markings. Hope to start the paintwork soon, so I'll have to make up my mind!
     
  6. Maximowitz

    Maximowitz Active Member

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    JG53? Nice one, always liked the Pik-A's!

    Slightly off topic, but what's your opinion on the Trumpeter 1/32 Gustav's?
     
  7. rochie

    rochie Well-Known Member

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    looking good terry i'm hoping to pick up a few tips from this thread as well as others
     
  8. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    Looking very good Terry.:D Keep them comming....
     
  9. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Thanks Karl and Wojtek. Max', I've only seen photos of the Trumpeter Gustav, and it looked very good. Also heard good things about them, but, as their kits are a bit more expensive, it would be a toss up between them and Hasegawa. I was looking at both, but decided to try the 'cheapo' just for the hell of it. It's like old times in a way, bit like a cross between 'old' Revell, and 'new' Hasegawa! As I say, for the price, £9.96, it's marvelleous. There are some little things here and there, but it's all part of the challenge!
    Terry.
     
  10. B-17engineer

    B-17engineer Active Member

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    Very cool Airframes thanks!
     
  11. Lucky13

    Lucky13 Forum Mascot

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    I say, jolly good show old boy....carry on! 8)
     
  12. Catch22

    Catch22 Well-Known Member

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    I read it's just a horror to try and put together, though I may be confusing it with the 1/24. The 1/32 Hellcat, MiG-3 and Me 262 that I've done were good though, so I don't know what to say really.

    Great job Terry! Looking forward to more!
     
  13. Heinz

    Heinz Active Member

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    Great work mate!
     
  14. 109ROAMING

    109ROAMING Active Member

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    Nice work Terry!
     
  15. Screaming Eagle

    Screaming Eagle Active Member

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    nice terry, keep it coming!
     
  16. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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    Great work Terry....on a roll mate....:D
     
  17. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    PART TWO.
    Whilst the wing was setting, I got on with some of the smaller bits and pieces. It's been amazing how quick this has gone together, due mainly to the method of construction, and the relatively few parts. The fit is excellent, and it would be nice to see other kit manufacturers using some of 21st Century's methods.
    Picture 1 shows the canopy and windscreen, soon after being dipped in 'Klear'.
    The tab on the port lower side of the opening section was trimmed level with the frame before treating. The 'Panzer Glas' armoured head-shield has had the first coat of paint to the 'solid' sections, and will need to have some support stays scratch-built when fitted into the canopy. The latter will be masked, and the frames painted inside and out.
    Photo 2. The underwing cannon gondolas were fitted with the gun barrels, ready to be fixed after the model is painted. A hole was drilled in the centre of the spinner, as the kit 'gun muzzle' was just a moulded depression. The belly tank has been cemented together, and the joints filled and sanded.
    Photo 3. Surprise! When I came to reduce the ribbing on the elevators, I found this nice little moulding on one of the tailplanes! Shades of early Monogram kits; there was a smaller version on the bottom of the lower wing centre section - both were removed easily.
    Photo 4. After Wayne's timely caution, I removed the plugs from the screw holes in the fuselage and bottom wing, and filled the openings with 'Milliput' and smoothed them over. They will be sanded when totally cured.
    Photo. 5. The filling and sanding is underway, with the wing joints, and the outer wing panel line, filled with 'Superglue' and sanded back. The wing to fuselage joint was surprisingly good, with only a tiny bead of 'Superglue' being needed.
    Photo 6. A view of the port side. The white 'spot' is a piece of copier paper, punched out and glued to the fuselage, to represent the access hatch that was missing on the kit; easier than trying to scribe a circle! Small holes were drilled at the joint of 'frame 8', on both sides of the fuselage, to simulate the lifting/jacking point. A decal for the inscription is included on the kit's excellent decal sheet, but there is no sign of the 'hole' on the fuselage sides.
    Photo 7. This is a general view, showing those areas that have already been sanded. There wasn't much to do, the main areas being the ribs of the 'fabric' control surfaces, which were a bit too 'heavy'. The sanding marks and scratches will be polished with toothpaste to restore the smooth surface, and any 'clogging' of panel joints cleared.
    Final photo. With the main assembly complete, the model is begining to look like a 'Gustav'. After cleaning and polishing, the model will be washed to remove any grease or mould release-agent deposits, then masked, ready for the light grey primer to be sprayed overall.
    So far, this is proving to be an enjoyable build, more so because of the low cost!
    I hope to bring you part three fairly soon, which should show the first stages of painting, plus making the shoulder harness and other small details.
    Terry.
     

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  18. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  19. 109ROAMING

    109ROAMING Active Member

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    Bloody Nice Work Terry! looks super!

    One question ,are the underwing canons 20 or 30mm?
     
  20. rochie

    rochie Well-Known Member

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    nice work terry
     
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