Budget Bf109G Build.

Looking gooood Terry! 8)

Top class Terry.

Thanks for the compliments guys, it's progressing well. Had the odd mishap, but that's my knackered hands, not the kit!
Daniel, there were basically two field modification kits (Rustaz, or 'R') for the 'standard' cannon gondola, R4 and R6. The R4 was a pair of MK108 30mm cannon, one in each streamlined gondola, whilst the R6 was the same, but with MK151/20, 20mm cannon, normally with 120 rounds per gun. As far as I know, the G14 had the R6, 20mm, which had more or less become 'standard', so it would be a Bf109G-14/R6. Note, the MK151/20 had a cyclic rate of fire of 750 - 800 rpm, with a muzzle velocity of 2,600 feet per second (790 metres per second). Fast firing and hard hitting! The rate of fire was modified, in the MK151/20S, to 500 - 700 rpm, in order to reduce vibration in the airframe. The 'S' meant Synchronised.
Terry.

Splendid show there old boy....care for another cuppa? Pip pip, cheerio and all that rot!

Very nice work!

Looking good Airframes. Your copier paper trick was brilliant. That's one for my files.

Thanks Matt. A 'standard' paper punch comes in useful, for making discs out of plastic sheet or clear sytrene, or making 'holes' for access hatches, windows etc. There's another type, which I guess is available in the 'States; it's the one used by fabric workers, for punching small holes in cloth, leather and so on. The different sized 'punches' are on a wheel, and the whole lot is mounted on grips, rather like pliers/ pincers. Select the size of punch by rotating the wheel, squeeze, and Bingo! Hole or disc the size you need. They should be on sale in art and craft stores. Good fot instrument panels in 1/48th scale up.

I know exactly what you are referring to.

Thanks for the explanation Terry

look forward to the next pics

Good job Terry!!

looking great Terry, had a quick look this morning and haven't found any G-14's with the R6 cannons fitted, but that does'nt mean there weren't any.

When I get home from work tonight i will look further, the JG 53 White 13 is a G-14/AS with the different cowling arrangement. here is a quick line drawing to show cowl differences. Note the curved bulged panel below the canopy on the AS version

Image Credit Bf109G/k Vol 1 Kagero Publications

Thanks Wayne, all good stuff! look forward to the pics if you can find them.
Cheers, Terry.

Ok at first look a JG 26 G-14 is a distinct no go.....have checked the JG 26 War Diary, only III Gruppe used the G-14 during the approx period of Oct - Dec 44 and the JG 26 Photographic history indicates that photo's of III Gruppe G-14's and K-4's are as scarce as rocking horse sh!t....

So.....moving on to JG 2 info....more to come.

JG 2 is no better!! II Gruppe only and found nothing yet.

Found a nice late G-6 with tall tail (early G-14's were basically identical), R6 cannons, drop tank, Blue Reich defence band Yellow 9 + I of 9/JG 54....

JG 5 ( Kit markings)is still a good primary candidate though, as they flew their share of G-14's and there are photo's....!

Will look at JG 53 further also.....

Thanks very much Wayne! Yes, I've only ever seen one pic of what MIGHT be a G14 of JG26. It's a shot close to the cockpit, where the colours appear to be possibly in the green range, just going off the B&W tones.
I'd be very interested in seeing the pic of the JG54 G6, that might work, if it's got the 'Erla' hood. Pics of the JG5 aircraft would also be very helpful, and, if you can find something, JG53 also.
As I've had to fit the tail-wheel leg as part of the construction sequence, I don't really want to have to start surgery to alter anything at this stage, so I'm stuck with the 'normal' tail wheel; this of course restricts anything that has the 'tall' tail-wheel leg. Bit strange it wasn't included in the kit, although it has to be remembered that these aren't 'model kits' as we know them, but one of the kit decal optins shows the tall tail-wheel!
I might even go with JG4 yet, which is also in the kit decals, but I always prefer something different!
Your help and assistance is much appreciated Wayne, thanks very much indeed.
Tomorrow (Thursday) I hope to get out to buy some Tamiya acrylics to try; could hardly move today, as my knees wouldn't bend! Spent most of the day horizontal and moaning!
I'm going to try an experiment. I'll mix the colours as I'm used to, using very small amounts of enamels, including Xtracolor authentics, then try mixing the acrylics to match, using your 'recipes', and the others supplied by Jan and Wojtek. That way, I should get a better 'feel' for what, to me, is 'new technology'!
Thanks again mate, but don't bust a gut trying to get the info!
Terry.

PART THREE.
Just a quick update on progress.
Picture 1 shows the model masked, and the first primer sprayed on. It's a light grey enamel, which looks brighter in this picture, and, coincidentally, is not that disimilar to the actual colour of the real thing.
Picture 2. The lighter coloured streaks are a thin filler, sealing the tiny gaps in such places as the wing blisters, small joints, and over emphasised panel joints. It's a trick I learned donkey years ago, used in the production of Balsa moulds when making canopies etc. A mix of gloss varnish and talcum powder, brushed into/across the joint or gap, will find its own level by capilliary attraction, and is ideal for getting in to those places where filler or putty would be too thick or bulky. It works a little like Micro 'Kristal Kleer', but dries smoother and hard. Any slight unwanted deposits can be very lightly sanded off, anf then, if needed, a further thin coat of primer applied. That's the next stage here.
Picture 3. Although it won't be used, I thought I'd show the pilot figure that comes with the kit. It's made from a hard, polythene-like material, and, as you can see, has separate arms and head. The instructions advise heating the body with a hair drier, in order to fit the other pieces easily. I found that this allows the parts to be 'posed' as required, as the arms can be bent into the desired position, as well as being movable, as is the head.
This really is an excellent figure; if this was a resin accessory figure, it could cost almost as much as the 'Gustav' kit itself.
Picture 4. I decided to assemble and paint 'Rudi the Rottenflieger', as I have ideas for 'him' with a future FW190 project. This is only the first stage of the painting process and, when finished, the details should stand out well. The trousers are accurate reproductions of the late-war period flight kit, and the parachute harness is detailed down to the correct rip-cord handle and cable tube, whilst the helmet displays the buckles, radio lead connector, and Zeiss goggles in detail.
Tomorrow (Thursday), given that I can get the Tamiya acrylic paints I need, I hope to start on the first stages of the camouflage painting. Meanwhile, it's time to start on the wheels, prop and exhausts.
Terry.

Bloody awesome!! Old school. I like it.

Put a Les Gibson in his hands and he might just sing, "You Shook Me All Night Long".

Thanks Matt. I've just noticed the way I left 'Rudi's' arms, you're right, all he needs is that guitar! Darn, that's just brought back memories! I sold my Gibson, and gave my classical guitar to my daughter, as I can't play anymore due to this stupid b****y arthritis. Really miss stroking those strings!

Nah, give him a pint of Guinness.