CORSAIR F4U-4; 1/48, Revell

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I like your enthusiasm my dear fb friend.
It is a scheme that I liked a lot (mainly the combination of colors) ... they make it very colorful.

By the way in an opportunity I upload the photos of the advance with the rotating propeller ...
 
Interesting, fun and very enriching this my first time with a rotating propeller !!

In a millimeter sheet, the first thing was to draw the distances and measurements that will carry the silhouettes that the blades make spinning.



Look for a branch that can be adapted to the diameter of the acrylic, the nose and the entrance to the engine (they are 3 different diameters), so we had to work with relative care ...



I decided to give one last polish to both sides of the acrylic ...



... I made a dry fit, to check that everything is in order ...



So I proceeded to start in this new technique, which will undoubtedly be highly recommended for those who are interested in the option of making engines working ...
It is a technique I had seen before, and good friend Robert Parker found it for us (post # 252):



What do you think? Looks good!!
Your opinions, doubts and comments are always welcome.

In the next post, the adventure with masking and use of the airbrush to give color to those silhouettes that are made with the blades at full speed !!

See you soon...
 
It should look good when it's all done.
One technique I used many years ago, was to use a disc of lightly tinted (smoked) clear plastic, which gave the effect of the colour of the blades as a feint 'haze'.
If you have some spare clear plastic, you could experiment by spraying it with a very thin coat of, for example, Tamiya clear smoke.
 
Thank you for your comments, my distinguished colleagues.

I made a cross on the acrylic circle, over the cuts made previously on Tamiya millimeter sheet ... To be able to have a reference when placing the masks in the acrylic circle.



These Tamiya adhesive sheets have an excellent glue (too strong for this particular situation) and I have to learn how to use them.
I told you that I had a hard time finding the best way to place the two pieces on the acrylic. I could not make several attempts because of the fear that the adhesive paper would break, could lose the optimal adhesion or lose the exact form to make a precise airbrushing.



You can see a small variation between the two marked crosses (the central circle was not accurate) But then I resolved favorably that "small error of precision"

Thus I made the yellow outline, ... very diluted in isopropyl alcohol, at very low pressure and several light strokes until it was in conformity with the appearance ...



With the error of the central circle of the circle, I decided to only spray two small sections of the circle, where the thickness of the strip is almost equal. Even in several photographs are almost invisible ...



The main photographs where I support myself on to do my best job...



... and making a dry fit without still adhering the propeller to the engine, ... The result!



It's already my last week and I have to speed things up to finish my Corsair in advance; the IPMS Mexico 2017 is next weekend, so I must hurry with the details that I still lack.

I will take the time to upload the photos that are coming up ...

I look forward to your comments and thank you all for your visits.

Hasta pronto y buen inicio de semana para todos
Luis Carlos
 
A great affect L-C! My only comment is that the yellow band appears a tad too wide. It should be a scale 4 inches which is just 2.1mm wide.

I don't think it's worth changing as it looks really good the way it is now and I'd hate to see it spoiled.
 
Crimea_River said:
A great affect L-C! My only comment is that the yellow band appears a tad too wide. It should be a scale 4 inches which is just 2.1mm wide.

I don't think it's worth changing as it looks really good the way it is now and I'd hate to see it spoiled.
Click to expand...
It's true Andy, I relied on the mark indicated by the blade of the kit; and if I get picky, the yellow color got closer to the lemon yellow ... and it should be more reddish ... but I'll have to live with that.

I appreciate your comments, thank you, my friend.
 
F-104nut said:
By the way the way you did the prop blur look really great. I would love to see you build a jet
Click to expand...
The hole in the acrylic was for the screw mandrel that I used to be able to work with my drill-lathe, a first diameter; the outlet port from the engine is of another diameter and the port of entry to the nose was of a smaller diameter. It is probably ideal to have been using brass tubes, but I do not have them (nor did I think of them), it is not so much weight, but for that reason the measure was better to exceed a little the length of that branch and to work by hand with jewelery files in those three different diameters.
The important thing is to join the prop shaft, give the correct direction and alignment.

I have a SU-27 UB, that at some point I will be able to merge between my list of WWII aircrafts

Saludos compadre y gracias por preguntar
 
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Very cool Luis! I love the innovation here! My only comments would be: can you use a thinner material? And: the yellow is a bit too strong. It looks like masking tape at first glance.
 
JKim said:
Very cool Luis! I love the innovation here! My only comments would be: can you use a thinner material? And: the yellow is a bit too strong. It looks like masking tape at first glance.
Click to expand...
I appreciate your comments John; You're right about the yellow, in the pictures it would look like a tape, but if it's translucent, ... maybe try with a 8000 or 12000 sandpaper try to make it more translucent. My idea should be done with absolute care !! Do you think it's a good idea ?, do you have any other options? ...
I feel a little pressed and over time by the National; and I still lack details, the basis that will support her, to make your box and also finish the box of the Lib; ... and work commitments with my business; so I hope I have time to do it on time.

Muchas gracias y saludos
 
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