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I think you are right, I am calling this one a learning experience. I have another one waiting in the wings for later. Maybe my third entry in GB#16...I recall him saying sanding between 8 coats was a must. Mentioned the little hairy stuff popping up as well.
Can't wait to start building my F2b........ I think something has started here. Yah think?
Good old fashioned varnish, I can get that. Thanks!Looking good so far Paul. For future use, if you can't get dope, then thinned gloss varnish (NOT acrylic)will work better than the glue mix. The latter, although it works, being water soluble, half the effort is negated each time a new coat is applied. The gloss varnish is nowhere near as good as proper dope (itself a 'heavier' varnish), but has a better shrinking power, to tighten the tissue, and will also reduce, to an extent, the paper fibres sticking up.
I didn't think that it could be shipped, being flamable and all. I know that squadron doesn't ship glue anymore, I figured that it was the same.Paul, looking good, if i'm not prying, why not get the clear dope? Espec if you are doing another balsa. If no local hobby shops it is available on line
Yeah, I'm not normally a "what-if" kind of guy. But this is just a fun build and I figured that if they got a carrier in commission sooner or later somebody would figure out that blues and greys were better over the water. Of course, being Germans, the yellow nose and rudder is a must.Hey Paul. Looking good. Although it's a conjectural scheme you're doing, I believe most German aircraft operating over water carried a two-tone green splinter scheme similar to 70/71 but slightly different. I'm away from my references now so don't have the right RLM numbers handy but someone may chime in with additional info.
Thank you, I will give it a shot on the next one!That's looking bazzing Paul. Not sure of the restrictions in the 'States, but in the UK, inland surface mail is allowed to carry items such as paints, varnish etc. I'd guess that if a mail order/on-line outlet lists the product, then they can ship it, and any shipping restrictions will probably be shown.
A little tip for the varnish, which might help a touch, but experiment first.
By adding talcum powder, the viscosity can be changed; a thick mix will provide the equivalent of sanding sealer, which, as the name suggests, is used to seal the grain, and then sanded. This is also used to achieve a perfectly smooth, polished surface when making male moulds from balsa (or other timbers), and in various viscosities, can also be a useful filler for small joints, depressions etc in plastic modelling.
By adding a small amount of talc to gloss varnish, this can produce a 'heavier' varnish similar too, but not exactly the same as dope, and can be used to seal the tissue.
Hope this helps.