**** DONE: 1/48 Bf 109E-4 Von Werra - Defense of Britain/Atlantic.

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I agree about the lack of mottling, as mentioned. Now that I've looked again at the 'scrapyard' photos, I also agree that the darker tones are general 'wear and tear' dirt deposits.
 
Thanks for the input guys! I'll forgo the mottling on the saddle cowling and stick with RLM 65 on the sides and RLM 02 on the top.

The leading edge slats are painted to match the wings. I still need to paint the tips white.


Here's a view of the white tail. The paint has been touched up here and there as I go. Paint lifted off by the masking, fingernail scratches, etc. I've even toned down the preshading in spots. Using highly diluted paint, you can perform fixes without a whole lot of masking if you are careful.


Before I seal the camo finish with a gloss coat, I masked off the red walkway lines on the wings instead of using the decals.



The saddle cowling is masked off and painted.


The model is given a clear gloss coat to protect the camo paint job and to serve as a base for decaling.


The kit decals are used. I really like the quality of the decals that Cartograph makes for the Eduard kits. They work very well with the Microset/Microsol system and settle into the recessed rivets and panels lines very nicely.



Uh-oh... despite Vic's warning about the tail wheel, an inadvertent bump during decaling has knocked off the tail wheel. It was recovered and I'll have to reattach it. Hopefully I can be more careful and not break the darn thing off!


Some more views of the decaled model. Decaling is about 95% done at this point. I still need to add some stenciling to the starboard side.



After the decaling is finished off, I'll shoot the model with another gloss coat and then do some weathering. The end is approaching!
 
Thanks gentlemen! Fast approaching the finish line on this one! After I've sealed the decals with another gloss coat, I've run a pastel wash over the panel lines using a brown on the bottom and a black/brown on the top.




The tail braces are finally added. You can see that the tail wheel has been glued back together.


The landing gear sans wheels are attached to the wheel wells. Make sure you check alignment of the gear legs and let the glue dry thoroughly before putting weight on the legs... the fit is not as positive as one would like for this attachment.


The exhaust stains are added using incrementally darker shades of brown to black.



The flat coat is applied.




Some fiddly bits are added like that prop, wheels, the aileron balancers and the mast antenna and the aerial line made of stretched sprue. The canopy mask can finally be removed, revealing... aaargh, what Andy had alluded to with the Tamiya Extra Thin cement.. fogging on the inside of the canopy.


It looks like only the center canopy piece has fogged, not the rear or the windscreen. I used the cement only on the bottom edges of the canopy and not between canopy pieces themselves so I cross my fingers and hope that I can remove the center canopy piece without damaging it or upsetting the other canopy pieces, especially the rear since it would muck up all of the aerial line work.


Gently rocking the canopy piece side to side, it popped off without much drama... whew!


So I removed the head armor, cleaned off the fogging with a cloth and reset the canopy in place without glue.


I think this one is just about finished!
 
That's a real beaut John !
I didn't know about the fogging with Tamiya cement (which I've only recently started using), so that's good info.
Due to lack of articulation in my hands, I now tend to fit clear parts without cement - just in case of slips and cement damage !
Instead, I use either PVA, or Humbrol Clear Fix, which allows time to position the part(s) without risk, and sets very well. Also, if you do need to remove a clear part for whatever reason, it can be done without damage, and then just peel off any residue, and start again.
 

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I just picked up some Micro Klear that will probably work similarly. I'm glad that the canopy wasn't that securely attached or I would've been in deep doo-doo. Ok, I've finished the all of the little adjustments and am ready to call this one complete. Here are some pictures of the finished 109E-4. I'll get a FINISHED post up soon.





 
It's a cracker John, well done !
Micro Krystal Kleer works very well, and is basically 'refined' PVA. I used to use it a lot, especially for making small windows and lights etc, but the last two bottles I got 'went off' very quickly, turning to a solid in the bottle, so I swapped over to the Humbrol product which, unlike the Micro, is perfectly clear to start, not white.
 
Thanks Terry! That's two straight Eduard Profipack kits that I've cranked out and I have been very, very impressed by both the Spitfire IXc and Bf109E-4 kits.

During a search for a missing aileron balance thing, I found my original Revi gunsight. It's nice getting something back from the carpet monster but it was a little too late for this one. I'll put it in the spares box.
 
Thank you Steph! Here are my two GB builds together. It's interesting to note the comparative sizes of these two planes. I never realized how small the Bf was and was surprised to find out that the Spitfire is the bigger airplane.


 
They look great together, and yes, it's surprising how small the '109 was, especially when viewing real one up close.
That's very lucky finding the gun sight - my carper monster seems to certainly digest things, I never get them back !
 
Looks fantastic John, I really love your weathering.

I use the testers clear parts cement for canopy sometimes, but more often than not I use Testers tube glue For a more secure attachment. I keep it from fogging the clear part by first dipping it in Future and have never had a problem.

Thank you Steph! Here are my two GB builds together. It's interesting to note the comparative sizes of these two planes. I never realized how small the Bf was and was surprised to find out that the Spitfire is the bigger airplane.


You should put a P-47 next to them!
 
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