meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
Absolutely! 1/72 is very tough to detail, it looks fine!
**** DONE: 1/72 De Havilland Sea Venom FAW 53 – Carrier Aircraft GB
- Thread starter parsifal
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Lucky13
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Looking good mate!
Vic Balshaw
Major General
That is good Michael and as already said, a close-up is brutal and we tend to forget that the naked eye will not pick up such detail. But for a 1/72 scale I think you do pretty dam good.
- Thread starter
- #44
parsifal
Colonel
i havent done anything for the last week, because i am waiting for the aftemarket cockpit detail. An image of the Pavla kit is attached. i just hope that it fits the Eastern express model that i have nominated (The pavla kit is not actually built for the kit i have)
I am considering doing an open cocpit, but this is going to have difficulties, as all things. The main problem is in the canopy cut unlike the Seafury the canopy is not a simple cut in half job, I have to cut the canopy out of the cockpit which will require three separate cuts. There are two canopies so perhaps i could use two to make one (open) canopy assembly.
i also am a bit unsure about how to paint the Mk4 martin baker ejection seats. ive not been able to really nail the colour of the upostery and harness in the RAN FAW53 subtype.
And just sitting around waiting really sucks......
I am considering doing an open cocpit, but this is going to have difficulties, as all things. The main problem is in the canopy cut unlike the Seafury the canopy is not a simple cut in half job, I have to cut the canopy out of the cockpit which will require three separate cuts. There are two canopies so perhaps i could use two to make one (open) canopy assembly.
i also am a bit unsure about how to paint the Mk4 martin baker ejection seats. ive not been able to really nail the colour of the upostery and harness in the RAN FAW53 subtype.
And just sitting around waiting really sucks......
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looks good Michael. Colours for Marin Baker seats of the period were as follows:-
Seat frame and pan - semi-matt black. PSP pack below seat cushion - yellow.
Back pad and seat cushion - Khaki (more like the colour of a 'manilla' envelope).
Parachute container and 'wedge' pad - as above.
Parachute harness - off-white or light fawn, with release box in Medium Grey or black on later models. Adjuster buckles steel.
Seat Harness - Dark blue-grey, adjuster buckles semi-gloss black.
Firing handles - yellow/black stripes.
Seat Adjuster - bare metal.
PEC - metallic grey.
I think I might have a colour photo of the seat somewhere - I'll post it here if/when I find it.
Seat frame and pan - semi-matt black. PSP pack below seat cushion - yellow.
Back pad and seat cushion - Khaki (more like the colour of a 'manilla' envelope).
Parachute container and 'wedge' pad - as above.
Parachute harness - off-white or light fawn, with release box in Medium Grey or black on later models. Adjuster buckles steel.
Seat Harness - Dark blue-grey, adjuster buckles semi-gloss black.
Firing handles - yellow/black stripes.
Seat Adjuster - bare metal.
PEC - metallic grey.
I think I might have a colour photo of the seat somewhere - I'll post it here if/when I find it.
- Thread starter
- #46
parsifal
Colonel
If you can Terry, that wou be much appreciated
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Here you are Michael. These aren't exactly the same, being a Mk2 and a Mk4P, but should give an ideas of the colours. The Mk2 is similar in overall appearance to the early Mk4 used in the Sea Venom, whilst the later Mk4P, used in the Jet Provost, shows the colours of the materials in better tones.
The Sea Venom seat had, as far as I know, a separate parachute harness and seat harness, much like other aircraft of the period, such as the Hunter. The seat harness would either be dark blue- grey, or, if a little later, the mid blue as shown in the photos. The lighter coloured harness is the parachute harness.
These features should be indentifiable on your resin seats.
Hope this helps.
The Sea Venom seat had, as far as I know, a separate parachute harness and seat harness, much like other aircraft of the period, such as the Hunter. The seat harness would either be dark blue- grey, or, if a little later, the mid blue as shown in the photos. The lighter coloured harness is the parachute harness.
These features should be indentifiable on your resin seats.
Hope this helps.
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Vic Balshaw
Major General
Good pics Terry.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Vic.
- Thread starter
- #50
parsifal
Colonel
Thank you so much terry. Can i ask you guys for your opinion? Attached are two of the the photos of an RAN Sea Venom walk around, taken after the aircraft had long retireed, and frustratingly with the cushioning removed. I think the metal frame is the same as the upper image posted by terry, or do you guys think it more accurate if I paint my seats the same as the lower image???
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- Thread starter
- #51
parsifal
Colonel
Actually reviewong those photos, i think the RAN seats are more like the lower phot. I arrived at that by counting the rivets in the headrest and looking at the general shape of the seat....
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Michael, do you mean the lower photo I posted? If so, then yes, the Sea Venom seat was very similar, being a Martin Baker Mk4A, the one I posted being a Mk4P.
If your resin seats have that 'horse shoe' shaped upper cushion, then that's the actual parachute pack, with the 'V' shaped straps being the lift webs (risers). This would mean the the parachute harness was integral, being also the seat harness.
If the resin seats do not have this shape moulded, but a more rectangular shape lower down from the head restraint, then that will be the parachute pack, with a separate harness for the parachute, and one for the seat harness, the former being the lighter colour, with the latter being the blue, or blue-grey colour.
The seat seat itself was black, as previously mentioned, and part of those shown in the RAN photos may look a different colour, but that's reflection from the photo flash.
During that period, and up until the late 1970s, all of the cushions/packs, regardless of seat type/design, were manufactured from a strong canvas material, which was the colour shown in my lower photo, with the off-white/light beige parachute harness. Therefore, if you base the colours on those shown in my lower photo, they will be correct.
If you need me to verify, I should be able to do so if you are able to post a close-up shot of one of the resin seats.
If your resin seats have that 'horse shoe' shaped upper cushion, then that's the actual parachute pack, with the 'V' shaped straps being the lift webs (risers). This would mean the the parachute harness was integral, being also the seat harness.
If the resin seats do not have this shape moulded, but a more rectangular shape lower down from the head restraint, then that will be the parachute pack, with a separate harness for the parachute, and one for the seat harness, the former being the lighter colour, with the latter being the blue, or blue-grey colour.
The seat seat itself was black, as previously mentioned, and part of those shown in the RAN photos may look a different colour, but that's reflection from the photo flash.
During that period, and up until the late 1970s, all of the cushions/packs, regardless of seat type/design, were manufactured from a strong canvas material, which was the colour shown in my lower photo, with the off-white/light beige parachute harness. Therefore, if you base the colours on those shown in my lower photo, they will be correct.
If you need me to verify, I should be able to do so if you are able to post a close-up shot of one of the resin seats.
- Thread starter
- #53
parsifal
Colonel
I agree with your last post completely Terry, and as always, thanks for taking the time to help. Just to really rile you....on a related subjectct, if I cut the canopy from the main body of the vac-form canopy cover, do you have any tips on how I should go about this. Ive been pacticising on PET bottles, using a bit of a method....firstly using a pin vice to drill holes wherever there are corners to be cut into the materail. Next using the smallest wheel cutter on the dremel, to make the smallest cut into the material midway between each drill hole, and then finally using the modelling knife and a metal straighgt edge to finish the cut. Results are not too bad, but I was wondering if there was a tried and true method for cutting clear canopies.....
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
There certainly is Michael, but it takes time - the average time for separating a canopy from the sheet is normally around 1 hour.
If you intend to separate canopy from windscreen, then it often helps to place a strip of masking tape, preferably the Tamiya type, as this has a thin, hard edge, over the cutting area. That is, either side of where the cut is to be made, on what will be the frame. This will provide a guide, and help prevent damage if you slip!
Once that's done, use a new blade in your scalpel (do not be tempted to use a saw, or any form of power tool !), and slowly, and carefully score around the canopy edges - do not exert too much pressure, and do not attempt to cut through the material in one go.
Continue to do this, scoring slowly and carefully at an approximate angle of 45 degrees, letting the blade do the work, until the canopy is free from the sheet.
BUT ! As you want to have a separate canopy and screen, make the cut between them first, using the same method as described above.
Once the parts are free, any slight roughness to the edges can be carefully smoothed by gentle sanding.
To add the frames, there are a few methods - painting as normal, or the use of tape or strips of decal.
Painting can be tricky, as sometimes the paint does not want to adhere fully, and will probably require a number of coats. Also, of course, this will mean masking on a difficult surface, due to it's flexibility.
Using painted clear decal strips, or painted clear parcel tape, such as ordinary 'Sellotape', negates the use of masking, and is normally easier to apply, and gives a more realistic appearance. Personally, I prefer using clear tape as, if it is incorrectly placed on the first attempt, it can be removed and then correctly placed. Once in place, it can be pressed down to ensure it is firmly fixed and, by dipping in 'Future' or similar clear varnish, the tape is then sealed to the surface. (once done, if anything other than a gloss finish is required for the frames, this can be applied with a fine brush.)
The method of preparation is similar for both tape and clear decal film - paint the interior colour first, onto an area of tape or clear decal film much larger than needed. Once fully dry, paint the required exterior colour over this. Once all is fully dry, cut strips of the required width, but longer than needed, and apply to the relevant area(s). Trim off any excess at the ends.
If using tape, lightly apply a length to a suitable flat, dust-free surface - I use an old, glass drinks coaster - then do the painting.
The pics below show the cutting on the canopy for my 1/72nd scale Halifax, but note that the scalpel is 'propped up' for the photo, and not at the angle used for the actual scoring.
Make sure you test fit the canopy and screen before any sanding or other trimming, in order to a) ensure it will fit (!), and b) work out how and where it is going to be attached.
If possible, use PVA (white glue) or Micro ''Kristal Klear' (which is basically heavier, refined PVA), to attach the parts and, once set, run a bead of the same glue around the joints, which will not only seal any gaps, but also provide a better 'hold'. This can be done by using the tip of a cocktail stick, running in a thin bead, and wiping off any excess with a wet finger tip, or the tip of a small paint brush, dipped in water, but shaken to remove excess moisture. If needed, a further bead can be applied once set, and this can be painted over if required. Alternatively, CA adhesive can be used at key points, but this (or the fumes from it) can fog the canopy. A dip in 'Future' normally prevents this, but can not be guaranteed.
Hope this helps, but if you're still unsure, don't hesitate to ask!
If you intend to separate canopy from windscreen, then it often helps to place a strip of masking tape, preferably the Tamiya type, as this has a thin, hard edge, over the cutting area. That is, either side of where the cut is to be made, on what will be the frame. This will provide a guide, and help prevent damage if you slip!
Once that's done, use a new blade in your scalpel (do not be tempted to use a saw, or any form of power tool !), and slowly, and carefully score around the canopy edges - do not exert too much pressure, and do not attempt to cut through the material in one go.
Continue to do this, scoring slowly and carefully at an approximate angle of 45 degrees, letting the blade do the work, until the canopy is free from the sheet.
BUT ! As you want to have a separate canopy and screen, make the cut between them first, using the same method as described above.
Once the parts are free, any slight roughness to the edges can be carefully smoothed by gentle sanding.
To add the frames, there are a few methods - painting as normal, or the use of tape or strips of decal.
Painting can be tricky, as sometimes the paint does not want to adhere fully, and will probably require a number of coats. Also, of course, this will mean masking on a difficult surface, due to it's flexibility.
Using painted clear decal strips, or painted clear parcel tape, such as ordinary 'Sellotape', negates the use of masking, and is normally easier to apply, and gives a more realistic appearance. Personally, I prefer using clear tape as, if it is incorrectly placed on the first attempt, it can be removed and then correctly placed. Once in place, it can be pressed down to ensure it is firmly fixed and, by dipping in 'Future' or similar clear varnish, the tape is then sealed to the surface. (once done, if anything other than a gloss finish is required for the frames, this can be applied with a fine brush.)
The method of preparation is similar for both tape and clear decal film - paint the interior colour first, onto an area of tape or clear decal film much larger than needed. Once fully dry, paint the required exterior colour over this. Once all is fully dry, cut strips of the required width, but longer than needed, and apply to the relevant area(s). Trim off any excess at the ends.
If using tape, lightly apply a length to a suitable flat, dust-free surface - I use an old, glass drinks coaster - then do the painting.
The pics below show the cutting on the canopy for my 1/72nd scale Halifax, but note that the scalpel is 'propped up' for the photo, and not at the angle used for the actual scoring.
Make sure you test fit the canopy and screen before any sanding or other trimming, in order to a) ensure it will fit (!), and b) work out how and where it is going to be attached.
If possible, use PVA (white glue) or Micro ''Kristal Klear' (which is basically heavier, refined PVA), to attach the parts and, once set, run a bead of the same glue around the joints, which will not only seal any gaps, but also provide a better 'hold'. This can be done by using the tip of a cocktail stick, running in a thin bead, and wiping off any excess with a wet finger tip, or the tip of a small paint brush, dipped in water, but shaken to remove excess moisture. If needed, a further bead can be applied once set, and this can be painted over if required. Alternatively, CA adhesive can be used at key points, but this (or the fumes from it) can fog the canopy. A dip in 'Future' normally prevents this, but can not be guaranteed.
Hope this helps, but if you're still unsure, don't hesitate to ask!
Attachments
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Nice little tutorial Terry.
Spot on Terry! 
- Thread starter
- #57
parsifal
Colonel
Thanks terry, very much appreciated . im just sitting around now waiting for grass to grow, and for the parts to arrive. Should arrive soon now
ccheese
Member In Perpetuity
That's a nasty looking blade. Looks like it could cut you three ways.... deep, wide and often !!
Charles
Charles
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks guys, hope it proves helpful.
Charles, that's a Swann Morton surgical scalpel, with a No.10A blade, the type I've used for 50 years. Relatively inexpensive, compared to 'modelling' brands, very precise cut, stays sharper than any other type I've ever used, and the blade can not move or come loose on the handle. The handle is also flat, solid stainless steel, and grooved where grip is needed. Big benefit - it can't roll off the work top !
Charles, that's a Swann Morton surgical scalpel, with a No.10A blade, the type I've used for 50 years. Relatively inexpensive, compared to 'modelling' brands, very precise cut, stays sharper than any other type I've ever used, and the blade can not move or come loose on the handle. The handle is also flat, solid stainless steel, and grooved where grip is needed. Big benefit - it can't roll off the work top !
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