**** DONE: Bf109E-4 Jg2 white 9 Battle of Britain Group Build

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That's the basic idea Glenn, but also, start to 'only just' let the paint flow. If your Sotar has the adjuster on the end, to stop down to the desired setting, the set it at minimum opening (fine line). You should find that paint will not actually touch the surface before you line-up, when the trigger can be progressively opened further. Being on 'fine', it's then possible to build-up each mottle as required. At worst, there may be a very, very light over spray, which then acts a a diffuser, softening the overall effect, without detracting from the finish. This over-spray is so fine, it can only just be seen if it has overlapped a masked area, with a light background, once the masking is removed.
 
Yes Terry the Sotar has an adjustable setting. It acts as a stop as you pull the trigger back, and can be set from completely closed to completely open. I plan to do a lot of practice first.

I think I have decided what I'm going to do as far as the mottling is concerned. Below is the only actual photo of the aircraft, and various profiles of it, supplied my members of this forum for which I am very grateful. As you can see there is a wide variation in the interpretation of the mottling in the various profiles, none of which I believe is totally correct. After studying the photo I've decided to combine different areas of the profiles to make what I believe is the closest interpretation of the photo.

For the basic mottling I am going to try to replicate what is shown in the first and third profile. I believe this looks closest to the photo.

For the Stab over-painting mottling I am going to use profiles 1 and 2. the other profiles look much too heavy when compared with the photo.

In 2 of the profiles the Balkenkreuz has been over-painted with mottling. The photo seems to show this although I'm not sure, but I'm going with it, I'll use the 2nd profile as a basis as it's not as heavy.

The spinner is a lighter color in the photo so I'm going with white as shown in profile 3.

And lastly the yellow distemper paint on the nose looks rather worn in the photo so I will try to replicate how it's shown on profile 3. I've given this a lot of thought, and what I'm going to try is to do the mottling on the yellow areas of the nose and rudder with black paint, then put a light cote of yellow over it so the shadow of the mottling shows through, then do a little weathering over the top. If this doesn't work I can always fall back to my original plan of heavy weathering.

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I'd say the second profile also caught the mottling that appears to go up into the RLM 71 in front of the windscreen in the photo. The third one appears to replicate the photo the best although the rudder mottling is dabatable.

Note also in the photo the large amount of smoke staining in the MG troughs.

You picked a real challenging one there Glenn.
 
I see what you mean about the mottling in front of the windscreen Andy. I wonder what color to use for it? A darker shade of 71 on top of 71? I plan to do the smoke staining around the guns with pastels. The fact that its heaver staining actually makes it easier for me. My problem with pastels seems to be restraining myself! :lol:

There WILL be much practice and experimentation Wayne, count on it!
 
Hard to say Glenn. The mottling on the side was often a combination of 02 and 71. The first two profiles suggest two colours. If that were the case, the mottles in front of the winscreen could be 02 on the 71 splinter although they do look darker don't they? The other thought is that maybe 70 was used in the mottling, not 71, and that would be the darker colour on the 71 splinter.
 
STOP!! Glenn, before you commit paint to plastic, have a very careful study of the photo. The orignal print has suffered from what is called reticulation of the the latent image, which means the actual negative, before printing, has been affected by either incorrect exposure, where the film speed is confused and 'coming back on itself', by poor or extended storage before development, or possibly by damp.
This has shown up, on the print, as a sort of dappled effect overall, more visible in the darker tones. Have a look at the area of the field, above the nose of the aircraft, and you'll see this quite clearly. This has of course affected the appearance of the aircraft's mottle overall, and might have given the effect of mottle also showing through the distemper.
In other words, all is not as it may seem in that photo!
 
I agree with your interpretation Terry....was looking at the image and thinking something is wrong?? The 'mottle' was ON areas that didn't look like it should be there...such as the fuselage cross and the canopy framing!!
 
That makes things a little easier guys, not having to mess around with the mottle shadow effect on the nose, which I wasn't sure would work. And I wasn't crazy about the idea of putting mottle over the Balkenkreuz decals. I'll just do a fine mottle over the RLM 65 sides, then a heavy weathering on the yellow.
 
I worked on the mottling today after working out how I was going to do it. I decided that the stab markings were over painted first with RLM 02 with some small mottling on the fuselage sides of the same color, then mottling of RLM 71, followed by a little RLM 70. Yellow nose tail next.

Pictures 1-4 How I laid out the stab marking locations with pieces of paper based on the kit decals, then penciled in.
Pictures 5 6 The RLM 02 sprayed on.
Pictures 7 8 RLM 71 applied
Pictures 9 10 Mottling complete with RLM 70

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Looking good Glen. When you've finished the practice spray squiggles, frame it. It'll be worth a small fortune to some arty farty dipstick !!
 
Masked and painted the canopy parts with RLM 02 so its visible from the inside. Also finished up the prop. RLM 70 blades with aluminum hub, and a black wash on the white spinner because it looked too bright and neat to be real.

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Looking good Glenn. I can't quite see if you've done it, but on the rear glazing, there was an internal frame, running fore and aft,centrally in the top panel.
 

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