fubar57
General
Have to agree with you Michael. I built 4-5 1:72 aircraft but swapped over to 1:48 for more detail that will be all but buried in the cockpit anyhow. I am still amazed at the detail some put into 1:72 though
**** DONE: GB-38 1/72 Mitsubishi A6M2B Zero - Axis A/C
- Thread starter parsifal
- Start date
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It's looking good Michael, and it's evident that your skills are developing.
Nicely done so far!
- Thread starter
- #24
parsifal
Colonel
Ive put the to fuselage halves together , after the pit was firstly installed. Pit went in without any serious issues. Ive pre-shaded a bit, but will probably sand some of this darkening back a little I think.
Modified the kit supplied Type 98 gunsight, rather radically in fact. It was suplied basically as a blob of grey plastic with a triangular prism to simulate the clear parts of the sight. I wasn't much impressed with that so I removed most of the and fashioned my own clear glass addition from scrap clear styrene packaging. After painting and drybrushing, Im pretty happy with the result.
Ive started painting the engine plug. Post war museum restorations are allover the place as far as engine colours are concerned, so I decided to try and base my interpretation on known information and some black and white photos. Japanese engines tended to leak oil, and didn't have a lot of paint applied , so ive applied a
base colour metallic (Alclad "Metal") and then oversprayed that with a thinned down coat of Tamiya Smoke to get that oiled up look. Im still deciding whether to paint the bell housingat the centre of the engine some sort of grey or leaving it in bare metal finish.
Modified the kit supplied Type 98 gunsight, rather radically in fact. It was suplied basically as a blob of grey plastic with a triangular prism to simulate the clear parts of the sight. I wasn't much impressed with that so I removed most of the and fashioned my own clear glass addition from scrap clear styrene packaging. After painting and drybrushing, Im pretty happy with the result.
Ive started painting the engine plug. Post war museum restorations are allover the place as far as engine colours are concerned, so I decided to try and base my interpretation on known information and some black and white photos. Japanese engines tended to leak oil, and didn't have a lot of paint applied , so ive applied a
base colour metallic (Alclad "Metal") and then oversprayed that with a thinned down coat of Tamiya Smoke to get that oiled up look. Im still deciding whether to paint the bell housingat the centre of the engine some sort of grey or leaving it in bare metal finish.
fubar57
General
Nice engine work
Crimea_River
Marshal
Very sharp.
N4521U
Colonel
It's always the way, all the hard work as my wife asks, "Will you ba able to see it"?
Me, "sure if you take it out of the cabinet"!
Me, "sure if you take it out of the cabinet"!
- Thread starter
- #29
parsifal
Colonel
Ive closed up the fuselage, and attached the wings and the tail,
Ive installed the top plate in front of the cockpit, but immediately behind the engine. I could kick myself. I thought it was in straight, but it isn't, and it wont budge now. the misalignment is less than 1mm, deep and about 10mm long. the only thing I can think of to try a recovery is to fill the area that ive mis-aligned.
Ive installed the top plate in front of the cockpit, but immediately behind the engine. I could kick myself. I thought it was in straight, but it isn't, and it wont budge now. the misalignment is less than 1mm, deep and about 10mm long. the only thing I can think of to try a recovery is to fill the area that ive mis-aligned.
Good work so far!
Not bad....!
Couple of alternate options for you....
Couple of alternate options for you....
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looking good.
- Thread starter
- #33
parsifal
Colonel
So, Ive started to track down what alternatives are available. In my opinion, the best value decal shetts are from Rising sun. Unfortunately they appear to be out of stock for the sheet I would like
1/72 Decal Sheets
Techmod have a pretty good sheet . The cheapest and most accessible source I could find was in Ebay
Does anyone have any information as to the quality of these decal sheets
Techmod Decals 1/72 MITSUBISHI A6M2 ZERO Navy Fighter | eBay
How difficult to apply are those Techmod decals. ive never used them, and have heard mixed reports about them.....
1/72 Decal Sheets
Techmod have a pretty good sheet . The cheapest and most accessible source I could find was in Ebay
Does anyone have any information as to the quality of these decal sheets
Techmod Decals 1/72 MITSUBISHI A6M2 ZERO Navy Fighter | eBay
How difficult to apply are those Techmod decals. ive never used them, and have heard mixed reports about them.....
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fubar57
General
Just ordered some Techmod decals for my current GB. I've heard they are hit or miss, at least for the early releases as they tend to break apart. My plan is to try one of the decals that I can easily replace, if it breaks apart I'll clear coat the rest
having had some some separate discussion with Michael, he has settled on the following scheme and markings for which i have the decals to provide.
This Zero flew from the Converted Carrier Junyo in January 1943, when the carrier divisions were reorganised and tail markings had changed.
"A2" representing the Second Carrier Division, " -2- " the second Carrier within the division and the "102" 1 = Carrier Fighter 02 = the aircraft Number.
Photo's of A2-2-102 launching from Junyo can be seen below , and the book source as well from HLJ Japan.
Also you will note on the wing leading edge in the second photo the new Yellow ID markings that were applied, starting just before the Battle of Santa Cruz in Oct.1942. Many Zero profiles depicting this period do not show this feature.
Also the last picture shows well the Fabric control surfaces in different (Grey) colour to the rest of the airframe.
A2-2-102 was a Mitsubishi built aircraft, as it has no white outline to the fuselage hinomaru, Nakajima built Zero's had the white outline.
This Zero flew from the Converted Carrier Junyo in January 1943, when the carrier divisions were reorganised and tail markings had changed.
"A2" representing the Second Carrier Division, " -2- " the second Carrier within the division and the "102" 1 = Carrier Fighter 02 = the aircraft Number.
Photo's of A2-2-102 launching from Junyo can be seen below , and the book source as well from HLJ Japan.
Also you will note on the wing leading edge in the second photo the new Yellow ID markings that were applied, starting just before the Battle of Santa Cruz in Oct.1942. Many Zero profiles depicting this period do not show this feature.
Also the last picture shows well the Fabric control surfaces in different (Grey) colour to the rest of the airframe.
A2-2-102 was a Mitsubishi built aircraft, as it has no white outline to the fuselage hinomaru, Nakajima built Zero's had the white outline.
- Thread starter
- #36
parsifal
Colonel
Wayne, as always has been indispensable in giving me advice. im glad ive decided to switch to this scheme.
Wayne has also provided some advice on painting colours with the main colours being XF-14 and XF-19. I have XF-14 but Ive had to order XF-19. The local hobby store has now closed so there will be some delay whilst I wait for the order to be delivered.
Wayne says the finishes in these light grey/white schemes is actually a gloss finish rather than a matt one . I had previously been told that, but didn't really believe it. Its hard to refute the weight of evidence now. The engine cowl is actually a mix of midnight blue and XF-1 . Wayne thinks that at 1/72 a simple application of matt Black would be good enough. I cant see any reason why not to mix the two colours even for the 1/72 scale.
Im going to keep my preshading that ive already applied
Finally I want to say a huge thankyou to Wayne. The guys that work behind the scenes in this place really are exceptional and Wayne is at the top of that list for me.
Wayne has also provided some advice on painting colours with the main colours being XF-14 and XF-19. I have XF-14 but Ive had to order XF-19. The local hobby store has now closed so there will be some delay whilst I wait for the order to be delivered.
Wayne says the finishes in these light grey/white schemes is actually a gloss finish rather than a matt one . I had previously been told that, but didn't really believe it. Its hard to refute the weight of evidence now. The engine cowl is actually a mix of midnight blue and XF-1 . Wayne thinks that at 1/72 a simple application of matt Black would be good enough. I cant see any reason why not to mix the two colours even for the 1/72 scale.
Im going to keep my preshading that ive already applied
Finally I want to say a huge thankyou to Wayne. The guys that work behind the scenes in this place really are exceptional and Wayne is at the top of that list for me.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Great info Wayne.
Now, if you want to go whole hog Michael....the main colour mixes are as follows, extending on from XF-14, XF-19 and XF-1 as a basic start...
Mitsubishi Metal surfaces,
XF-14 JA Grey 100 drops
XF-49 Khaki 40 drops
XF-53 Neutral Grey 3 Drops
XF-2 White 3 Drops
XF-7 Red 2 drops
Mitsubishi Fabrics Surfaces
XF-19 Sky Grey 105 drops
XF-25 Lt. sea Grey 15 drops
XF-49 Khaki 20 drops
A portion of extra white for scale effect after mixing would also be a consideration?
Mitsubishi Cowling and Canopy decking
XF-1 Black 70 drops
X-3 Royal Blue 30 drops
and then gloss coated but for 1/72 probably a semi-gloss/satin finish will suffice.
Mitsubishi Metal surfaces,
XF-14 JA Grey 100 drops
XF-49 Khaki 40 drops
XF-53 Neutral Grey 3 Drops
XF-2 White 3 Drops
XF-7 Red 2 drops
Mitsubishi Fabrics Surfaces
XF-19 Sky Grey 105 drops
XF-25 Lt. sea Grey 15 drops
XF-49 Khaki 20 drops
A portion of extra white for scale effect after mixing would also be a consideration?
Mitsubishi Cowling and Canopy decking
XF-1 Black 70 drops
X-3 Royal Blue 30 drops
and then gloss coated but for 1/72 probably a semi-gloss/satin finish will suffice.
Micheal, the Techmod decals may get craking while soaking. The reason for that seems to be the time of printing and how long these were stored. What is more the water can be the reason as well. It may sound a little bit too strange but it seems it's a matter of the chemical "ingridients": there. Many guys here in Poland can apply them without any trouble while those mates in the USA, UK and other countries complain about the cracking very often. Therefore I would suggest applying the gloss clear coat on the decal sheet before you can use them and put on a model.
Now I'm on holidays, will organise those decals for you michael.
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