**** DONE: GB-55 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 - MTO III

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Tomorrow, a diversion - on to the dreaded canopy masking and painting. Although this kit comes with pre-cut masks, we'll see how that goes.

My question is on the color call outs, in the instructions, on the internal canopy structure colors. The FX-63 called out is RLM-66 where shown, but I am questioning the X-1 (black) color on the remainder? Simple enough to do by painting the first coat black on the exterior, then the RLM-70 on top of that to achieve the external color. But, is the black correct?? Should it not be either RLM-02 or RLM-66 (like the rest of the cockpit)?

Nothing on the front cockpit interior is called out, should it be RLM-66 or if correct, black? Although eluded to as black?

The XF-64 on the head shield is red-brown for leather I guess?

 
Ralph Haus said:
Nothing on the front cockpit interior is called out, should it be RLM-66 or if correct, black? Although eluded to as black?

View attachment 688592
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Hi Ralph!
Please check the instructions for your model in a pdf-format @ Scalemates.
This was the only way for me (after zooming in) to see that the black colour (X-1) is probably for the edge of the canopy only, but the inner surface of the framing is RLM 66 (XF-63). Anyway, the instructions are not perfect and a small note would be helpful. And even the edge was not black in reality!
The inside of the framing should be RLM 66, the edges are in the same colour. On real planes the long elements at the bottom of the jettisonable/openable part of the canopy, are made of black rubber: there are rubber pads where the canopy presses against the body - see detail, showing the bottom rail of the canop. The rubber pad is position 30:

In reality one can see the black rubber pads when the canopy is open.
1. A historical photo in b&w:

2. A modern photo of a restored a/c:

3. On this modern photo one can see how the original rubber dried and cracked:

I don't know how detailed the bottom edge of your model canopy is - usually model makers don't do the rail with the rubber pad in smaller scales. If you have it detailed, feel free to paint the rubber part black.
Cheers!
 
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I did fix the pilot, Fritz sits a bit higher. Haven't gotten the will up yet to do the canopy panes. Maybe tomorrow. But I did make a bit of progress on getting it to look more like a actual 109. Still have a bunch of bits to remove from the sprus and attach to this assembly, and probably will paint separately, and attach post painting. What I see, if I attach now, is a whole lot of masking.

If you look closely you can see one of the two magnets that are for attaching the cowling pieces and the prop assembly when the engine is exposed ( see bottom view, mid engine assembly ). Well, earlier today they were gone. Looked everywhere on the bench. Nowhere. These are quite tiny, about 3mm in dia and about 1.5mm thick. Brainstorm (dangerous for me) I grabbed the floor robot and turned it belly up. Yep. both stuck to a wheel assembly. Gotta love that thing!!!



 
I'm liking it, maybe I need one of them thur robot critters
 
Paint - phase II - done. The fuselage is the next, and last step, and most dreaded. As you can see from my 'attempts' at applying the transition colors and 'splotches', my techniques are not up to par. I am applying with an Iwata HP-M2 which allow me to dial in the needle distance; supposedly allowing better control of amounts sprayed out. If I open to much I get over spray. To little, I not only have to futz with constant clogging, but the edges are to defined. I need to play with my paint mule I guess and adjust the air pressures, that may be my issue? But I would appreciate any inputs on how to achieve a 'soft' edge and not get any over spray. I have tried a paper mask, but this seems to produce a sharp line (as can also be seen). The engine covers can be 'salvaged' buy a quick strip and re-coating with the base RLM 76, but I would like to not have to re-do the fuselage because of incompetence.

I do like the feature where I can swap 'engine covers open' or 'engine covers closed'; there are magnets and washers embedded in the model to allow easy transitions.



This is what the transitions should look like.

 
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