Doras Galoras - Unofficial GB

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

A couple of quick progress shots of Black 6. Wing spar, ribs, and landing gear lock installed and painted aluminum using AlCladII Duralumin.

13020301.jpg

13020302.jpg
 
Cheers Dan, seems your a 10 hour sucker for punishment!:D

I take that back - Im upto about 12 hours now. The big, long 'inner' convex joins between the upper and lower halves are tough and the rear bottom joins were all packed with 0.5mm plastic card. But they're all now taken care of down to 800grit. The joins in the port and starboard engines have been 'backed' with card also. The only remaining part that bothers me is the central lower fuselage; dry fitting suggests no major issues.

BUT as for the D-15, well I now also have a scratchbuilt rear Lower Quarter of Engine - and thank you Daimler-Benz for making these things pretty much BLACK; simplifies my life. Just need to sort of the order things go in now - I had wanted to save the Quickboot Ta 152C exhausts for afetr the nose was attched, but now there is an engine in the way, they need to go in fist, then engine, then nose --> fuselage. Still, Im used to sanding round masking tape :)


D
 
Last edited:
I take that back - Im upto about 12 hours now. The big, long 'inner' convex joins between the upper and lower halves are tough and the rear bottom joins were all packed with 0.5mm plastic card. But they're all now taken care of down to 800grit. The joins in the port and starboard engines have been 'backed' with card also. The only remaining part that bothers me is the central lower fuselage; dry fitting suggests no major issues.

BUT as for the D-15, well I now also have a scratchbuilt rear Lower Quarter of Engine - and thank you Daimler-Benz for making these things pretty much BLACK; simplifies my life. Just need to sort of the order things go in now - I had wanted to save the Quickboot Ta 152C exhausts for afetr the nose was attched, but now there is an engine in the way, they need to go in fist, then engine, then nose --> fuselage. Still, Im used to sanding round masking tape :)
D

12 hours!!!.....and now...??? :shock:
 
@Wayne - last coat of surface primer has gone one the Cylon Raider Fuselage; Engines are patched and sorted; just need to get the lower fuselage on and then Alclad time :)

As for the D-15; the engine is really close, just need some wiring, super charger extention and some engine mounts... Then we can Bring the front and back together and see where we're at!
 
And thanks to the D-15 (DB603E) exhaust stacks being different to your Jumo powered Fw 190D's and Ta 152's, I've actually had to cut up a set of aftermarket (Quickboost for Hobbyboss Ta 152C) Exhausts and piece them back together so they fit this nose - that was fun - while sorting out the rest of the rear of the engine. Gave the nose a bit of a polish, hoping to be able to avoid a few coats of Alclad surfacer, but the variety of materials just wont allow (three different types of styrene, Squadron Green Putty, Super glue, tamiya surface primer, etc), so we need something to bring it all together and polish. And to be honest, the Alclad Black is one of the HARDEST finishing surfacers I know of.

Cylon Raider main fuselage has had all seams now done with 800 grit and engines are going on now - then I'll call it a night I think!


D
 
Nice work Andy. Got the wings installed.

001-63_zpsf1807f2a.jpg
 
Good progress Jerry.

For me, the cockpit is partly finished. Yesterday, I started with a basic coat of Tamiya XF-50 Field Blue which is actually a pretty good match for RLM 66 to my eye. It happens to also tie in the Eduard PE parts, which I used and which are a bit too blue for my liking. In addition, the Eduard PE was very shiny.

13020403.jpg

13020404.jpg


Today, this is how the pit looks. First of all, I decided to replace the PE rudder pedals with the plastic kit parts. This is because they will hardly be seen and I'll use the PE ones, which look quite nice, on my Ar234 where they will be open to view through the glass dome. Secondly, I made a seat cushion out of Milliput and added the wrinkles with the end of a paint brush. The PE panels were given a flat coat to even out the finish and the instrument faces got a dab of Future. Some light drybrushing with silver provided some highlights and then everything got a wash of thinned black artist oil paint. Oh yes, and note the maps installed in the little map box to the right of the stick.

13020401.jpg

13020402.jpg


A few more highlights have yet be added on the panels and the stick and then the seat belts will be installed before the whole tub will be placed into the fuselage.
 
Last edited:
@Crimea - to answer you questions last to first; what has it got to do with the Dora build? Well 'whoever' it was who told me of this thread (not pointing fingers) did so JUST as I was starting my Cylon Raider. Ive got a few Focke-Wulf projects (and a 6 month He 162A-2 build - that Dragon kit takes SOOOOOOOO much time - nothing lines up out of the box! And the complexity isnt helped by the Aires, Quickboost, Eduard and general scratchbuilding thats been thrown at it either) that are DRAGING out, so a 'quick build project' feels a bit like "What I Need"...

Now the Cylon Raider Mk2 Advanced - No Landing Gear, no Props, no Canopy/Cockpit/Wheel-wells, no Moving Control Surfaces, no 'I need to add an engine because I should be able to see into the engine bay), no Hours pouring over Japo, EE and the other references, no Decals, no clear coats!. And compared to the Hundred Fifty pieces or so in an Eduard ProfiPack D-9 (before I get anal and start adding things to make it 'correct-er'), 22 pieces in the Cylon Raider, sounds like heaven!

Now what is a Cylon Raider Mk2 Adavanced, its one of the variants of 'Space Superiority Fighter' developed by the Cylons in the 'new' Battlestar Galactica series and a good excuse to go a bit mental with Alclad :)

raider_cylon_mk2_advanced(sml).jpg


And by the time the D-15 nose is ready is for Alclad Black, so will the Cylon Raider - just noticed a slight lack of curve in one side of the D-15 nose; so time for another skim coat of green! Soem more light sanding on the Raider while the D-15 dries!


D
 
The D-15 is pretty boring right now - just a bog standard Dragon kit (actually its the Revell D-11, so I've had to remove the 30mm-style access doors under the wings and rescribe - could have done that better) chopped off at the firewall, with the 'not quite right' Dragon fuselage reinforcements shaved off (they'll be replaced with 0.25mm card later). Cockpit is standard DML/Dragon, the Fuselage Extension 'mold joint' is fixed up, there is a firewall is place (need a shade more detail before being 'done'), but to be honest, I took about 0.5mm too much of the 'gear bay roof' out, so that maybe a tricksey fix once the nose goes on, so I my rework it with some card before that point.

The nose is cool tho - started life in the spares box; it has has wedges taken out in places, wedges in in others, linse rescribed, curves re-profiled, completely custom deck lid, etc. It doesnt match the Japo Drawings (which I think are too 'deep') tho, I will say that now; 95% of this shape has been pulled from Ta 152C-0 engine covers (why would you bother to produce different covers at that stage of the war) - radiator while not finished, lacks the Ta152C-0/C-1 gun troughs and still needs the cooling flaps rescribed to the type seen on the prototypes...

Which actually bugs me a little; the D-14/D-15 projects were basically supposed to be a D-9, with a Ta152C engine stuck on the front (with the minor improvements that we saw as the D-9 matured). It was to have the MINIMUM new parts as possible (hence why for example, we fiond Ta152E cockpit components in the D-13 for example), using the same engine, engine mounts, etc... Which they did... But why did Roland fit that style of radiator flaps and not the type found on the Ta152C (obviously the Jumo D-series/Ta152E/H-series radiator was different)?

Still, 601286 was a prototype/hybrid, so who knows! I'll post some pics of the nose when its done; as above, its a mess of colours, s i doubt it will translate well to a 2D photo, until its BLACK... :)


D
 
Great stuff guys, and I soooo prefer the original Cylon raiders to that new design...:) (Always wanted to do a Viper as a kid, but no model existed at the time!)
 
Bit more progress

Andy - you were right about the gun deck but there was enough flexibility in the join to get stuff together without too much swearing.

Prop is dry fit for now - need to think about the order in which to paint bits without having to redo too much due to overspray :oops:

P1010025.JPG
 
Ah the joys of what order to paint a D-9 :) I think I have tried most methods, but keep coming back to the following:

1) Bare Duraluminium (lower wings on MOST a/c)
2) Rumpfbands
3) RLM76 fuselage and wing/tail under surfaces
4) RLM75/81/82/83 on fuselage - I normally paint solid areas first then come back and mottle with a freshly cleaned air brush and slightly thinner paint, but have been known to go the other way (mottle first and move up) - Ive also been known to come back with some thinned RLM76 and 'fade' the mottles a little.
5) take advantage of the fact the wing join was normally painted separatedly, and mask the fuselage off along the top of the fairing; mask tailplanes the same way
6) Spray wing patterns - if the forward parts of the wing undersurfaces are not RLM76 (ie RLM75/81/83), they'll get painted here too

Depending on the colours of things like Main gear doors, they may get painted at stage 3) or 4)... Regardless, its a Dora and there will always been multiple passes with the same colours and some tricky maskings to take care of :)

All part of the fun tho!

OK, back to work (must finish writing up a paper for tomorrow, before I continue with the D-15 - So I have Motorhead playing loud, top try and motivate me!)


Dan
 
@Lostinhull - Awesome! I have a stash of Eduard Kits for what sounds like a similiar project (two of the JV44 Boxes and another D-9 ProfiPack) - the two JV44 boxes will do Red 1/Red 2, Red 3/Red 4 and the ProfiPack will do Red 13. The plan is to essentially 'production line' things, building all 5 a/c simultaneously out of the box. Its a slightly daunting, epic project; but the kits are here stareing at me! :)

More work - I had hoped to be closer to be being finished, so I could prep the D-15 nose and Cylon Raider for Black Base; but alas, no... :(


Dan


Oh and I have moved onto Dumbsaint for musical inspiration... ;)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back