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Many years ago I buyed a motorised Lindberg Ju87 in 1/48, and once it was completed I noted that the trailing edge of the inner segment of wings (the one closest to the airframe) was completely wrong: it was parallel to the leading edge instead having an angle. This mistake of Lindberg was (at least for me) unacceptable. Watch your model, perhaps it has the same error.
Cheers
 
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Yup it's the same. The leading- and trailing edge are parallel. Not that it matters. I'll build it anyway as I want to suprise my father-in-law.

Glued the fuselage and wings together. Inserted the chairs etc. I decided not to put the dolls in as I find them crude and ugly. Had to remove quite an amount of plastic to make it all fit. As I said it's not the best kit. I also saw off part of the proshaft to insert a part that my father-in-law forgot. It was needed in order to fit the prop properly. Next I will paint the fuselage, wings and the little pieces. Canopy will be a challenge.

It's far from the maserpieces you guys make, but guess what: Lucky is right. I start to enjoy it. Takes the mind off the pressure at work. I might do another one when I'm finished.
 
Oh oh! Marcel has caught the bug! "Might do another one" normally leads to a whole room (or more!) of models!
But, it's great way to relax, and have something to show for it, plus the satisfaction derived from a sense of achievement.
Looking forward to further progress my friend.
 
Looks good so far Marcel.
Even with enamel paints, dark coloured plastic will need at least two coats of a light coloured paint, and most likely more if using acrylics. If the plastic is dark in colour, and particularly if shiny, then a rub over with a cloth dampened with thinners will help. After the thinners has evaporated, then painting can commence. It's also a good idea to give a thin primer coat first in these instances, using a light grey paint.
 
There should be after market decals available Marcel, from outlets such as Hannant's. But, no harm in trying the kit decals first; if possible, give them a coat of clear varnish first, and allow this to set for around 12 hours or more, before use.
 
Okay thanks Terry. Don't have clear varnish yet. How important is that?
And another question: the paint I use is mat. So I guess the shiny decals will stick out like blood on a white shirt. Any tricks to make this less so?

btw. I guess I won't try to emulate an existing Stuka. It'll be too ambitious for my skills I'll be happy if it looks somehow decent Which of course doesn't mean that I will not try to get the camo as accurate as possible.

And for the interested here some pics:
 
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The clear varnish over the decals will help to prevent them breaking up when used, which can happen with old decals. That said, I rarely have a problem with old decals, as the quality of the material is probably better than today!
It's preferable to apply decals to a gloss surface, to prevent the effect of 'silvering', where the carrier film shows up as a greyish silver surround to the decal. So a coat of gloss clear varnish to the model, allowed to fully dry, will help.
After applying the decals, allowing them to set overnight or for at least 12 hours, the model can be cleaned of any decal adhesive residue, and then given a clear coat to seal the decals and provide the required finish. In the case of Luftwaffe aircraft from this period, this would be semi-matt.
 
Thanks guys.
@Terry: thanks I guess I'll have to buy some vernis tomorrow.

Anyway still have to do the darker green for cammo. Then the decals'll have to wait until after my trip to Boston.
 
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