turbo
Staff Sergeant
If the BBC weather ran with "overcast with periods of rain" I reckon they would be pretty safe
<-- Mosquito FB.VI - Twin Engined Aircraft of WWII
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- #262
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Possibly. But, last summer (and we did have a bit of a summer ), there were numerous forecasts stating just that, along with heavy rain, when it was clear skies, sunny, and (for the UK) high temperatures !
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- #264
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks my friend. I'm pleased with the way it turned out.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
One of the things we colonists have you UK folks beat. We have the weather stone. It is NEVER wrong unlike the BBC weather service.
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- #266
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
My local Aero Club used to display, and sell for a few pence, a similar thing, called the Barton Barometer.
It was a piece of card, with a length of string suspended down the center, with similar wording.
And back to the Mosquito, which has now had the Dark Green disruptive camouflage applied.
I had intended to use the 'Model Master' RAF Dark Green, but lighten it a touch, as it seemed rather dark when I used it on the NF.XII.
But, try as I might, I couldn't get the lid off the bottle !
Probably just my weak wrists, which are still a tad painful at the moment. So, I reverted to the old stand-by, Humbrol No. 163 Dark Green (satin) enamel. It's a bit of a sod to spray, but normally does the job, although I have yet to see it dry with an even, satin finish !!
The upper and lower fuselage demarcation was first masked, along with the sides of the engine cowlings and nacelles, and the fin and rudder, before marking out the camouflage pattern in pencil, again using the factory camouflage pattern drawing.
The Dark Green was then sprayed freehand, keeping a relatively tight line for the edge demarcation, although some areas still need to be tightened a little more.
PIC 1. The camouflage pattern marked in pencil, with the areas to be painted marked 'DG' - just in case !
PIC 2. The model immediately after painting. The patchy look is due to the satin paint, which never seems to dry with an even finish and, of course, it's still wet in parts in this photo. The weak back-light from the window not only emphasises this, it has also affected the colour balance slightly. (It's been as dim as a TOC-H lamp here all day, with dull, low cloud and rain - situation normal !)
Once the clear coats are applied, the uneven appearance should disappear, although some 'wear and tear' and slight weathering will be added later.
Given that the paint dries properly, there's some tightening of the edge demarcation to do in a few areas, and also a couple of very small areas which need retouching, due to some slight misting of over-spray.
Hopefully, I can get the gloss coat on over the weekend, and start on the decals probably on Monday.
It was a piece of card, with a length of string suspended down the center, with similar wording.
And back to the Mosquito, which has now had the Dark Green disruptive camouflage applied.
I had intended to use the 'Model Master' RAF Dark Green, but lighten it a touch, as it seemed rather dark when I used it on the NF.XII.
But, try as I might, I couldn't get the lid off the bottle !
Probably just my weak wrists, which are still a tad painful at the moment. So, I reverted to the old stand-by, Humbrol No. 163 Dark Green (satin) enamel. It's a bit of a sod to spray, but normally does the job, although I have yet to see it dry with an even, satin finish !!
The upper and lower fuselage demarcation was first masked, along with the sides of the engine cowlings and nacelles, and the fin and rudder, before marking out the camouflage pattern in pencil, again using the factory camouflage pattern drawing.
The Dark Green was then sprayed freehand, keeping a relatively tight line for the edge demarcation, although some areas still need to be tightened a little more.
PIC 1. The camouflage pattern marked in pencil, with the areas to be painted marked 'DG' - just in case !
PIC 2. The model immediately after painting. The patchy look is due to the satin paint, which never seems to dry with an even finish and, of course, it's still wet in parts in this photo. The weak back-light from the window not only emphasises this, it has also affected the colour balance slightly. (It's been as dim as a TOC-H lamp here all day, with dull, low cloud and rain - situation normal !)
Once the clear coats are applied, the uneven appearance should disappear, although some 'wear and tear' and slight weathering will be added later.
Given that the paint dries properly, there's some tightening of the edge demarcation to do in a few areas, and also a couple of very small areas which need retouching, due to some slight misting of over-spray.
Hopefully, I can get the gloss coat on over the weekend, and start on the decals probably on Monday.
A4K
Brigadier General
On it's way Terry!
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I am guessing you don't extensively mask when painting camo? I have seen both styles and if done properly both look fine. Just curious.
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- #269
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Evan.
Robert, I only mask areas where it's needed for straight line demarcation, or where over-spray might intrude, in this case, onto the lower fuselage, engine nacelles, and fin / rudder, which need to be 'clean' Medium Sea Grey. The Mosquito also had a distinct upper / lower demarcation, which was hard-edged aft of the wing, and very slightly 'feathered' forward of the wing, so the tape is burnished on the rear section, and loosely applied on the nose, although not that loose that a distinct soft edge will be formed.
Depending on which factory built a particular FB.VI airframe, the upper surfaces camouflage pattern demarcation could be hard-edged, or very subtle soft edge. (Bomber variants tended to be hard-edged.)
By keeping the airbrush in tight, and with a relatively low pressure, it's possible to get a hard edge, although this particular 'brush has a 0.25 needle / nozzle, so it takes a bit of concentration, whereas my other 'brush, fitted with a 0.20 needle / nozzle, very easily provides a hard edge - sometimes too easily !
Those areas of the edge demarcation which may dry too 'soft' edged, can be touched-in with a fine paint brush, as can any misty over-spray or paint 'seepage' beneath the tape, and I'll also retouch a small section of the extreme nose on the starboard side, as I got the line slightly wrong when marking out.
I also need to re-touch one of the undercart legs, as the kitchen foil got disturbed when I was spraying the overall grey.
The tricky part is achieving a convincing 'grubby' appearance, particularly around the nose area. As the Mosquito was covered overall with fabric, apart from areas such as the engine cowlings and rad covers, and this retained the dirt picked up from the atmosphere, and from the regular handling by the ground crew.
Robert, I only mask areas where it's needed for straight line demarcation, or where over-spray might intrude, in this case, onto the lower fuselage, engine nacelles, and fin / rudder, which need to be 'clean' Medium Sea Grey. The Mosquito also had a distinct upper / lower demarcation, which was hard-edged aft of the wing, and very slightly 'feathered' forward of the wing, so the tape is burnished on the rear section, and loosely applied on the nose, although not that loose that a distinct soft edge will be formed.
Depending on which factory built a particular FB.VI airframe, the upper surfaces camouflage pattern demarcation could be hard-edged, or very subtle soft edge. (Bomber variants tended to be hard-edged.)
By keeping the airbrush in tight, and with a relatively low pressure, it's possible to get a hard edge, although this particular 'brush has a 0.25 needle / nozzle, so it takes a bit of concentration, whereas my other 'brush, fitted with a 0.20 needle / nozzle, very easily provides a hard edge - sometimes too easily !
Those areas of the edge demarcation which may dry too 'soft' edged, can be touched-in with a fine paint brush, as can any misty over-spray or paint 'seepage' beneath the tape, and I'll also retouch a small section of the extreme nose on the starboard side, as I got the line slightly wrong when marking out.
I also need to re-touch one of the undercart legs, as the kitchen foil got disturbed when I was spraying the overall grey.
The tricky part is achieving a convincing 'grubby' appearance, particularly around the nose area. As the Mosquito was covered overall with fabric, apart from areas such as the engine cowlings and rad covers, and this retained the dirt picked up from the atmosphere, and from the regular handling by the ground crew.
fubar57
General
Looking good Terry
A4K
Brigadier General
Interesting info Terry, cheers!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking good Terry. Glad things went smoothly for a change. As I said before the MM bottles are terrible and I'd suggest you decant into an old Humbrol tin if you have any spares. I used to run the bottle lids under hot water for a couple of minutes and then unscrew them with a nut cracker of channel wrench.
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- #274
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Andy.
It's probably just my hands and wrists being a bit stiff and weak at the moment - I also had problems holding the airbrush, hence the mix of 'tight' and 'feathered' lines.
Comparing the Humbrol to the MM for shade and depth, there's actually not a lot in it, with the Humbrol being just a tiny tadette lighter, and with a slightly more olive tone.
The masking has been removed, and the re-touching done, so, if the Dark Green is fully dry by tomorrow (being satin, it can take a while to dry properly, and I thinned it quite a bit too, which makes it worse), then I might be able to get the first one or two gloss coats on.
It's probably just my hands and wrists being a bit stiff and weak at the moment - I also had problems holding the airbrush, hence the mix of 'tight' and 'feathered' lines.
Comparing the Humbrol to the MM for shade and depth, there's actually not a lot in it, with the Humbrol being just a tiny tadette lighter, and with a slightly more olive tone.
The masking has been removed, and the re-touching done, so, if the Dark Green is fully dry by tomorrow (being satin, it can take a while to dry properly, and I thinned it quite a bit too, which makes it worse), then I might be able to get the first one or two gloss coats on.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice one Terry, she's looking good 
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- #276
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Kirby.
Another disturbed night, so I got up at 04.30 and finished the retouching, and started on a bit of light 'surface grime'.
Hopefully, I'll get the first gloss coat on this afternoon, after allowing more time for the paint to fully harden.
Going out tonight to celebrate my non-birthday, so nothing will get done tonight - and borderline on tomorrow as well !
Another disturbed night, so I got up at 04.30 and finished the retouching, and started on a bit of light 'surface grime'.
Hopefully, I'll get the first gloss coat on this afternoon, after allowing more time for the paint to fully harden.
Going out tonight to celebrate my non-birthday, so nothing will get done tonight - and borderline on tomorrow as well !
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Happy non-birthday Terry. I had one the other day - the big 5-0 which I'm duly ignoring.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Happy B-Day! Or Un B-Day! Had a few of those myself, wildly overrated in my opinion however usually good for a few free drinks!
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- #279
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Born on 29th February, so only have a birthday every four years !
But this year marks my 65th, so an excuse to have a few ... er, maybe more than few, drinks.
But this year marks my 65th, so an excuse to have a few ... er, maybe more than few, drinks.
fubar57
General
That may be the problem with your pension, technically another couple hundred years to go
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