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They're decals. He's just done a masterful job of getting them settled - setting solution, cutting them through gaps where necessary, and weathering over them. A good decal job should look like they're painted on.
 
mikewint said:
going to have to look into those setting solutions. what do they do?
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They basically soften and dissolve the decals a bit to bond them to the surface. They come in different strengths. On really thin decals I just use Testors setting solution or Microsol. Solvaset is the really strong stuff that I put on those thick Tamiya decals -a few applications over a few days and you need a sand blaster to get them off. It makes the decals really cling to all the contours of the model. I don't know the chemical composition of the solutions but they smell a little bit like vinegar.
 
JohnA, this is all new to me, so you use the setting solution in lieu of water? or you use water as usual, put on the decal, then apply the setting solution after the decal is dry?
would it work on old decals that are already on models.
 
Mike - check the thread on the 'Future' questions. I described it's use, and decal solutions for you in there.
Switcha - just noticed, but it might be too late if the Lanc is packed for Christmas. The observation blister on the port side is upside down, and should be behind the pilot's seat - if fitted. (Aircraft with 'Gee' didn't normally have the blister on the port side, as there was no access to the window due to the equipment fit.)
There would normally be a blister on the starboard side, in a similar position. The forward windows (pilot and flight engineer) were flat, and slid backwards, inside, to open.
 
mikewint said:
JohnA, this is all new to me, so you use the setting solution in lieu of water? or you use water as usual, put on the decal, then apply the setting solution after the decal is dry?
would it work on old decals that are already on models.
Click to expand...

I soak my decals in warm water with a drop of dish soap mixed in. The soap makes the decals slide easier and prevents tearing - that's not an issue with small decals, but it is with larger ones, especially those long stripes you sometimes have to apply in civvy schemes. Then I moisten the area that the decals is going on with a weak setter like the Testors - the stronger ones can react with the paint. After the decals are on and I've tamped out the air bubbles with some dry felt, I let them dry for an hour or so before I give them a coat of stronger solution, being careful to not let it spill over on the paint. Some setters like Solvaset come with a brush attached to the lid for easy application. Then I wait for a day to see how the decals have set, and if they still don't look painted-on, I do another application. With really thick decals it sometimes takes a few days for them to settle and the silvering to disappear.
 
mikewint said:
Excellent John, thank you so very much for the help. I use the warm water but never used detergent in it
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Just a wee bit though, not too much or the water gets sudsy. As to your other question, I've never tried using setters on old models, but if you haven't lacquered over the decals, I don't see why it shouldn't work. And Solvaset may even work through the lacquer - I know it can eat through paint because I learned it the hard way.
 
JohnA, I hardly ever use lacquers as my spraying is all inside the house and the fumes are terrible. all my paints are acrylics. even the dull coat is an acrylic. The decals on my F-105 were put on over flat paint and they are shiny. I was going to just paint over them with dullcoat. Do you think a softening solution or setting solution would work on these old decals?
 
Yeah it's worth a shot if they haven't settled well, but use a weak solution like Testors, and try it on just one and see what happens after a day. It won't remove the glossiness though, you'll still need a bit of flat coat to seal.
 
JohnA- someone had mentioned to me that the shinyness was in part at least due to air trapped under the decal due to the roughness of the flat paint. As in using future first give a smooth surface for the decal. I'll give the testors a try and see what happens. I'm going to dull coat everything anyway to try to blend them in
 
Here is a UC-64 Norseman light transport used in France in 1944. Kit is the old Matchbox to 1/72 scale.
Ed
 

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