RCAF CF-104 'Starfighter', 1/48th scale.

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Thanks Andy and Cory, much appreciated.
Andy, I might yet just leave the decals 'un-sealed', as the model won't be handled much, once it goes into the cabinet. However, after a few years, the decals can become brittle and easily chip, crack or flake, on a 'metal' surface, bearing in mind they are sitting direct on top of metallic paint, which has also had a (polished) coating of real aluminium - the 'bare metal' areas, apart from the wing-tip tanks and the fin, have not been clear-coated, as this spoils the appearance of the finish.
I've got a 1/48th scale B-17G, and a P-51D, both built around 22 years ago, and finished using the same process as here, and some of the decals are staring to flake, although I'll admit they were subject to direct daylight for around three years, at least, which wouldn't help.
I'd prefer not to seal the decals with a clear coat as, after time, the sealed area can start to show discoloration, with the decal carrier film becoming visible as a darker 'patch', so I'll have to think about this before making a final decision.
 
I regret the loss of your mate Terry.

What can I comment about decals , look good; I try to take note of your comments on the possible causes, types of decals, the type of paint used as a basis and how to protect them or not.
So far I've just struggled with the decals on my Spit-Hasegawa and Yak3-Zvezda for at thin and brittle ... but just was joining the pieces with care.
For apprentices, that we have little time in this or that we return after a long absence, your experience and the years spent in Model Making, we open our eyes to know about it.

You will take the best decision and keep an eye on how ends this wonderful bird.

Saludos cordiales
 
Many thanks Luis.
I haven't got much more done, as my arms and wrists are quite stiff and painful again, but I've made a start on the avionics bay, behind the cockpit, by drilling holes for the circuit-breakers, and some where wiring will be fitted. I hope to scratch-build the 'boxes' and wiring on the bay cover, and add the wiring etc in the bay itself, some time tomorrow, if my hands work.
Meanwhile, I'm trying to figure out how the h*ll to mask, and hold, the brass pitot tube, so that the red and white 'Barber's pole' stripes can be painted, before fitting the tube to the model !
Thanks again to all, for your good wishes and continued interest, and I'll try to post another up-date tomorrow.
 
It's a true spiral Andy, at a specific pitch too.
I'll try masking and painting, but I have a feeling the masking tape won't adhere to the very thin brass tube, and decal strip, if it would conform to the spiral, would probably get torn and tangled, due to lack of articulation in my hands. I can see me having to paint it free-hand, or, in my case, free-claw !
 
How about painting red, then spiraling some nylon string on as a mask then paint the white. You might get a slightly soft edge but it might just work.

Terry, I just stepped out of a new (for me) hobby store in Toronto and saw a Hasegawa F-104. Wish I'd taken a pic but in hindsight I'm now not sure if it will work as a Canadian version. Hell I don't even remember now if it was a single or two seater. I'm now researching RCAF 104's as you have me sotked to do one now. Any thoughts or heads ups you can provide would be appreciated. I may go back and pick up this kit later today.
 
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Yep, if it's a F-104G or J, then it'll be OK for a CF-104. There were some differences, such as the instrument panel lay-out, main gear doors and wheels, and a few other small details, but the basics were the same. The Vulcan gun was removed in the early days, and the gun port fared-over, but was re-fitted when the CAF's role in NATO changed in the early 1970's. The C-2 ejection seat was also retained.
Externally, the immediately visible difference is the tail fin and rudder, which was wider, and slightly higher, on the 'G' and CF-104, compared to the 'C' model, and you'll be able to see this when I do the conversion on the old ESCI F-104C kit. Meanwhile, here's the scale drawing compared to the 'C' fin again, which clearly shows the difference.
The Hasegawa kit is definitely the best overall, but the old ESCI or Italeri kits aren't too bad - better fit than two Revell/Monogram versions - but need to have the heavy, raised detail removed, and are basic in detail, with a fixed, one-piece canopy.
Let me know if you need details pics and drawings, as, in addition to the stuff Geo kindly sent me, I've collected quite a bit of info on the Canadian Starfighters.

Nothing more to show at the moment, as I've been either too stiff, or busy with other things today. I'm hoping to make some good progress over the weekend though, so I'll post another up-date when I get something to show.
 

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You're welcome Andy, and thanks, ugh and Wojtek.
No further progress I'm afraid - one of those days when I can hardly lift my arms !
 
Thanks mate.
I've done a little bit more, adding some bits to the main landing gear, and hope to get some more done this evening. Arms and hands are still a bit stiff and sore, so I don't know if I'll get much done, but we'll see.
Photos later if I get anywhere.
 
Dropped a pretty penny and picked up the Hasegawa kit yesterday. It's the Luftwaffe 104G CCV testbed version but the additional parts can be left off to make a normal 104G.

So, looks like I have a subject for the Jet Age GB and I'll need to locate some RCAF decals. Belcher Bits has some that I'll likely get.
 
Nice one Andy.
Which period markings do you want to do?
I have the natural metal finish 417 Sqn, Cold Lake decals from my Revell kit, as well as the red, white and blue 'disbandment' decals if you want them, all complete apart from a couple of stencils. The decal placement drawings, and the decal sheet, are shown below, and I'll be using decals numbers 38 and 39 on the Danish '104, and possibly decal No.6, the rest are yours if you want them.
The 'disbandment' scheme includes templates for the paint masking, as shown printed on the instruction sheet.
Otherwise, apart from Belcher Bits, Canuck Decals do the sheet I used, and I think they also do other periods too.
Let me know if you want them, and I'll get them in the mail asap.

EDIT:- Forgot to mention, it the Hasegawa kit is the German version, it might only have the Martin Baker ejection seat, so you might have to get a resin C-2 seat.
 

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