Heinz
Captain
all those waves and all those sharks 
To Surf or Not To Surf....
- Thread starter lesofprimus
- Start date
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B-17engineer
Colonel
OK I surf but I have photos from last year when I was a beginer but now I am a lot better
GrauGeist
Generalfeldmarschall zur Luftschiff Abteilung
Dang...I know I'm late jumping into this thread, but man, I couldn't resist, seeing as how I'm a former Southern Californian!
Surfed for a couple decades before moving to Northern California, now I'm about 150 miles from the Pacific...which blows...
My first board was an old Glen Horn I bought at a yard sale, saved my money and bought a custom made Robert August 5 1/2 foot swallowtail from the man himself, when he was making them out of his garage in Fullerton, right across from the junior college (late 70's). Scored a few others over the years, but nothing ripped like that Robert August!
Surfed the "Trestles" on down to 'Onofre, though I usually caught action at Huntington Pier in the early A.M., stopping off at Jacks for the lowdown.
If we went in the afternoon, we'd either hit the "Stacks" or, back in the day before the El Nino storms of the mid-80's cornholed the coastline, the Wedge.
Life being what it is, I no longer have my beach, my boards, my essentials, or hell...even any pics...
But I remember 8)
Surfed for a couple decades before moving to Northern California, now I'm about 150 miles from the Pacific...which blows...
My first board was an old Glen Horn I bought at a yard sale, saved my money and bought a custom made Robert August 5 1/2 foot swallowtail from the man himself, when he was making them out of his garage in Fullerton, right across from the junior college (late 70's). Scored a few others over the years, but nothing ripped like that Robert August!
Surfed the "Trestles" on down to 'Onofre, though I usually caught action at Huntington Pier in the early A.M., stopping off at Jacks for the lowdown.
If we went in the afternoon, we'd either hit the "Stacks" or, back in the day before the El Nino storms of the mid-80's cornholed the coastline, the Wedge.
Life being what it is, I no longer have my beach, my boards, my essentials, or hell...even any pics...
But I remember 8)
- Thread starter
- #24
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
Very cool B-17... A life in the surf is one of the better ones to have my young freind...
A Robert August Ghost??? Im very impressed.... To think what that board would be worth now...... Very glad to finally get a member here from the States who understands the true meaning of life, and it aint the Salmon Mousse......
A Robert August Ghost??? Im very impressed.... To think what that board would be worth now...... Very glad to finally get a member here from the States who understands the true meaning of life, and it aint the Salmon Mousse......
GrauGeist
Generalfeldmarschall zur Luftschiff Abteilung
Yep...a genuine made-to-order Robert August, custom graphics and all...I busted mah-azz to scrape up enough money to get that thing...I kept it immaculate, never once dinged it...
The real collectors items though, were my Glenn Horn six-five and a Bing log (with an old whale skag).
I scored those at two different yard sales, both were in decent shape, though the Bing was thrashed on the tip from somebody eatin' it in the shallows. It was easily fixed, though it looked nasty...lmao
Yeah, surfing is, or was for me at least, a state of mind. It's a good way to get your head on, get grounded or balanced, or how ever you want to call it.
Some people have a special place, a little garden or shrine for thier Dojo...mine was being out in the early morning, sitting on my board hangin' just outside, waiting for "that set" to come in...
The real collectors items though, were my Glenn Horn six-five and a Bing log (with an old whale skag).
I scored those at two different yard sales, both were in decent shape, though the Bing was thrashed on the tip from somebody eatin' it in the shallows. It was easily fixed, though it looked nasty...lmao
Yeah, surfing is, or was for me at least, a state of mind. It's a good way to get your head on, get grounded or balanced, or how ever you want to call it.
Some people have a special place, a little garden or shrine for thier Dojo...mine was being out in the early morning, sitting on my board hangin' just outside, waiting for "that set" to come in...
- Thread starter
- #26
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
Me too brother, when I was out in the water, there was nothing else on my mind but where the next set was comin in from and where to be at....
That Glenn Horn makes my legs quiver.....
That Glenn Horn makes my legs quiver.....
GrauGeist
Generalfeldmarschall zur Luftschiff Abteilung
Hey Dan, not sure if you've seen this video or not...but every time I watch it, it makes my pants tight...
Never had the chance at natural big waves, just local storm surges which are way different...killer to ride, but just not the same. Some day I'll make it happen!
Anyway, it's a short vid, focusing on the videographer's work and his moment of triumph!
Never had the chance at natural big waves, just local storm surges which are way different...killer to ride, but just not the same. Some day I'll make it happen!
Anyway, it's a short vid, focusing on the videographer's work and his moment of triumph!
- Thread starter
- #28
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
Nice little clip Dave, gotta love the green room...
1968-1970 Huntington Beach, CA. Inner break as a newbie and outer break after I got the nads to try. Cold, cold mofo. I couldn't afford wets and the board I had I cut down from an old redwood 9-footer given to me by a friend. It was heavy but that was good for me. I flipped off the lighter, faster boards like a match stick on end. I never got up the gumption to try the Wedge at Newport Beach. You needed a lighter, faster board for that to get out of trouble. I pined for a twin fin with down rails which was the shite at the time. Then my Pop got a job in Chicago and this 16 y/o became forlornly land-locked.
Edit: Many years later I was introduced to HobieCats. I bought an 18 footer (28' mast) and together with a good ex-military friend we commanded the off-shore winter swells in the Gulf Stream seven miles off Ft. Lauderdale beach, FL. Those are my fondest memories. Sold the boat to buy a wedding ring.
Edit: Many years later I was introduced to HobieCats. I bought an 18 footer (28' mast) and together with a good ex-military friend we commanded the off-shore winter swells in the Gulf Stream seven miles off Ft. Lauderdale beach, FL. Those are my fondest memories. Sold the boat to buy a wedding ring.
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GrauGeist
Generalfeldmarschall zur Luftschiff Abteilung
Ah yeah, the cold, how could we ever forget that!
I used to have a couple Bodygloves, which were essential for any wave action in the southland. Wasn't until you reached Oceanside that the temps get livable. It's almost like Catalina reaches down and pulls that nice cold Japanese current up!
The Wedge was a pure adrenalin rush back in the day, but after the El Nino storms of the mid-to-late 80's, it became ugly. Where you used to have the lead wave push across the jetty followed by a second, creating that sweet wedge effect, it now has a lead wave that's faced away from the rocks, and the second wave pushes up hard and breaks on the rocks all the way to shore. All that and a brutal undertow that drags anything along the bottom and releases it at the end of the jetty itself. Deadly, with no exceptions.
I think the two best places for a good, deep swell with decent form was just south of Corona Del Mar (1,000 step beach) and the breakwaters at San Onofre. The guards at San Onofre used to get uptight for us being in there, but we'd blaze in and then bail back out before they could do anything. As long as you didn't get too close to shore or the breakwaters, they were pretty mellow.
Ahh life behind the Orange Curtain...good times!
I used to have a couple Bodygloves, which were essential for any wave action in the southland. Wasn't until you reached Oceanside that the temps get livable. It's almost like Catalina reaches down and pulls that nice cold Japanese current up!
The Wedge was a pure adrenalin rush back in the day, but after the El Nino storms of the mid-to-late 80's, it became ugly. Where you used to have the lead wave push across the jetty followed by a second, creating that sweet wedge effect, it now has a lead wave that's faced away from the rocks, and the second wave pushes up hard and breaks on the rocks all the way to shore. All that and a brutal undertow that drags anything along the bottom and releases it at the end of the jetty itself. Deadly, with no exceptions.
I think the two best places for a good, deep swell with decent form was just south of Corona Del Mar (1,000 step beach) and the breakwaters at San Onofre. The guards at San Onofre used to get uptight for us being in there, but we'd blaze in and then bail back out before they could do anything. As long as you didn't get too close to shore or the breakwaters, they were pretty mellow.
Ahh life behind the Orange Curtain...good times!
acerus
Airman
Okay, something strange here... i do surfing in Germany and Denmark.
I do this for at least 3 Years and let me tell you the Waves a far from being perfect
Anyway, there are Waves around here and we used to make the best of it.
Surfing in Northern Germany and Denmark has also more to do with Motorsports than surfing....
Winddirection, Tide, Period etc....you are constantly searching for the right Spot!
This is the Board i am riding the most today, a 6,2 Norden Retro Fish (Norden is a German Brand but uses the Shapes of Glen D´Arcy).
and here is acerus in Front of some Danish Waves on a good Day (with my old Longboard under the Arm):
I do this for at least 3 Years and let me tell you the Waves a far from being perfect
Anyway, there are Waves around here and we used to make the best of it.
Surfing in Northern Germany and Denmark has also more to do with Motorsports than surfing....
Winddirection, Tide, Period etc....you are constantly searching for the right Spot!
This is the Board i am riding the most today, a 6,2 Norden Retro Fish (Norden is a German Brand but uses the Shapes of Glen D´Arcy).
and here is acerus in Front of some Danish Waves on a good Day (with my old Longboard under the Arm):
- Thread starter
- #32
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
That wave looks pretty damn good to me..... Ive been to the N. Atlantic countries (Denmark, Belgium etc) with board in hand and never caught or saw any wave like that....
Wish I could have....
Ur board looks like a dinosaur man, but is still nice nonetheless.....
Wish I could have....
Ur board looks like a dinosaur man, but is still nice nonetheless.....
acerus
Airman
Thanx lesofprimus!
The Longboard is a 9′5x 23 x 3 Trim Master and probably the best shape to get the more powerless Waves in the North- and Baltic Sea. I had a lot Fun with it!
If you want to go surfing in Germany or Denmark, you should prefer Denmark. Why? Because the Way the Waves have to travell from North Atlantic to the German Coast is much larger as to the Danish Coast.
Nörre Vorupör is a good Place to start.
By the Way if you ever came back to Germany and want to ride some Waves: go on this side:
Wellenreiten, Surfen an Nordsee und Ostsee - Nordsurf Syndikat
Don´t hesitate to ask in english, the most People there are good in English and will help you wherever they can!
Here are some other Shoots from me, made at the North Sea:
The Longboard is a 9′5x 23 x 3 Trim Master and probably the best shape to get the more powerless Waves in the North- and Baltic Sea. I had a lot Fun with it!
If you want to go surfing in Germany or Denmark, you should prefer Denmark. Why? Because the Way the Waves have to travell from North Atlantic to the German Coast is much larger as to the Danish Coast.
Nörre Vorupör is a good Place to start.
By the Way if you ever came back to Germany and want to ride some Waves: go on this side:
Wellenreiten, Surfen an Nordsee und Ostsee - Nordsurf Syndikat
Don´t hesitate to ask in english, the most People there are good in English and will help you wherever they can!
Here are some other Shoots from me, made at the North Sea:
diddyriddick
Staff Sergeant
Just Channel Surfing here. If I'm at the ocean, I wanna be under it!
syscom3
Pacific Historian
15 foot swells are hitting the beaches throughout Orange County.
15-footers at Wedge, high surf, rip current advisory issued - Sciencedude - OCRegister.com
15-footers at Wedge, high surf, rip current advisory issued - Sciencedude - OCRegister.com
- Thread starter
- #36
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
Frickin sweet pics....
Njaco
The Pop-Tart Whisperer
Charlie don't surf!
Here in Jersey we have to wait until the drug dealers flush their stash down the loo to get any decent waves.
I always wanted to be a beach bum. Kudos to you guys!
Here in Jersey we have to wait until the drug dealers flush their stash down the loo to get any decent waves.
I always wanted to be a beach bum. Kudos to you guys!
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
DAMMIT, I wanted to say that!
I'm with daddyriddick on this one, I'd wrather be under it.
I just found this:
http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/living/2009/07/24/wect.alligator.surfs.on.beach.wect
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Njaco
The Pop-Tart Whisperer
- Thread starter
- #40
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
Alligators in the surf, how silly..... Ive surfed at Topsail Beach many years ago and it must have come from the Intercostal Waterway across the street from the beach...
