What's on The Workbench

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Thankyou gentlemen for your encouragement Its nice to have.
I am very very gratfulful to not only Terry but to Wayne and everyone who has helped me get started in modelling as you know my real aim is to produce a reasonable model of my KIA uncles Wimpy so it will be more than a model to me I have reached nearly 3 times the age he managed so I shed a tear every anniversary of his loss.
I am one of the more ancient old gits on the site but the one thing that has kept me coming back (although I dont post as much as others ) is that we all have a common interest. I am not a very educated man and left school at 15 with no qualifications but over the last 6 years I have have been educated by all you guys from youngsters to guys older than myself (you there Charles)
Sod the nationalities I think you are all great fellas you only come this way once so lets get the most out of it
viva the human race

oops sorry I started to waffle right I need two 1/35 planes to build after the Bren before the Wellington any suggestions.
ps I thought you would like to see my kit
I got some storage boxes and glued them together to make a modelling set and fixed a magnifing glass to a halogen reading light for the filddly bits
 

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I like that idea of the magnifier fitted to the lamp Lee, think I might give that one a go! My eyes are getting older than the rest of me I think!! There aren't many aircraft kits in 1/35th scale - yet! There are a couple or so helicopters, and a rather nice J4 Cub, I think the latter being from Bronco. What I could suggest if you want larger scale aircraft, is to have a look at the Revell 1/32nd scale range. Most of them are reasonably priced, and some are very good indeed. They bought all the moulds from Matchbox when that company folded, so some of the kits are ex - Matchbox, which means they tend to be a bit 'chunky', but make into very nice models in general. The older, original Revell kits are again quite good in genreal, but there are one or two that are pretty inaccurate, the re-issued Bf109F being a major example - especially at the price of £19.95. But, whichever you might get of their kits, from original, to the newest, like the superb Hunter and JU88, or ex- Hasegawa, they are good value for money, large enough to provie a bit of a challenge without being too complex, and make into nice models, depending how much work is put into them. If you want to practice rready for the 1/48th Wellington, then again Revell's 1/48th bombers, mostly ex-Monogram, are well worth a go, at an average of around £16. The B25 or B26 would be ideal, being a similar size and complexity, and both turn out as nice replicas, although, being 'trikes', they both need a lot of weight up front.
 
looks like you are good to go Lee, the light and magnifying glass will be most helpful to you.

You probably need to build a couple of aircraft in 1/48 as this is your Wellington scale, this should help prepare you dealing with the same relative size components, that way you will have an idea of what you will be dealing with.

1/35 or 1/32 would be good but the scale size is quite different....if you know what I mean...
 
ok Wayne thanks
Im not up on scales but it sounds sensible to keep at the scale I intend for the important build Terry also suggested making a couple of aircraft kits first which I can also see yours and his reasoning for, as I have yet to master the art of camo painting i shall practice masking, well before I let myself loose on a model, all the info you have supplied has made a world of difference.
thanks again mate, Lee
 
Having a bit of a break from aircraft so i thought i would do a sci fi kit the enterprise in 1/350 scale jeez and i thought this would be a quick job this thing makes the revell 88 look small i will post some picks when she is done so you guys can see what a really big model looks like i will put the 88 next to the enterprise to show the size ooer.BB
 
'Big ,Bad and Beautiful B-52'

Started about a week ago , sucks up alot of paint - wings together - hoping to have the fuslage halves together in the next couple of days
 
I just finished applying all the decals, last night! now all I gotta do is spray the Stuka with dullcote, glue the canopy on, and she'll be all ready!
 
started on the '68 Corvette stingray earlier, today. constantly worked on it all day so it's like 70% finished. maybe 60, 65% this 'vette is gonna be a green metal flake. she's gonna be a beaut!

 
Great stuff guys! I'm slowly working on the Dr.I...pics hopefully tonight.

BTW, anyone know of any work going for a professional solderer or artist (pref. in Ireland, Uk, or Australia) ? 1700 of us are being laid off in the next two weeks...
 
Im stuck on the Bren carrier so help please, it comes with a couple of SMLE's and three Bren LMG's.
Do you think I can get the colours right, can I heck, the furniture on the guns looks like brown paint, not wood and the so called gun metal looks like black with a touch of silver in it nothing like blued steel at all.
I am getting a bit chuffed off with these bits as it tooks me ages to get the paint on it the right spots to begin with and they look like ****.
 
Lee, one method.... I've painted guns black and then brushed lead from a pencil over them to achieve a better metallic finish.

Rub the pencil on some sandpaper to get your 'pastel' lead, alternatively I have painted guns silver then dulled it with the lead. I use an old brush where I have cut the bristles back to about 2mm as you need to rub the lead into the paint.

With your wood colour you may need additional lighter shades that you can dry brush over the original darker colour to improve the finish...?
 
Good advice Wayne!

For gun metal I use a home brewed mix of black and aluminium, wash with a black ink or pastel around recesses and ridges, and lightly drybrush the top of the barrel (or ridges of engine cylinder) with a thin line of very light grey or silver depending on the effect I'm after..

For wood I mix brrown, blue, yellow, and red to the colour I want, lightning or darkening as required.
This said, I've yet to perfect either effect, so never do them the same way twice...
 
Nice work so far Rob.
Lee, theis job is going to be a lot easier than you think, as neither of these weapons were 'gun metal'.
First, the Bren. The butt stock and pistol grip were a very dark wood,close grained, so no 'streaking' Paint these dull brown, about the colour of Milk Chocolate, with the reiforcing strap along the butt black. The receiver (the main body of the gun) was black on the Mk2, and a dull dark grey on the Mk1, with the magazines on both starting out black, and ending up as a dull dark grey. The barrel was a mid grey metal colour. Paint this mid grey, and then rub a pencil, or powdered pencil lead over it. The gas tube, below the barrel, was black, with the gas port block (the protrusion beneatht the berrel, near the front, with a rounded bottom edge) was a steel colour. Paint the latter silver, with a touch of matt black in it. The bipod was either black painted, or a dull grey metal - again, a darkish grey with pencil rubbed over it will work.
The SMLE used a darker wood than the later Enfield No4 Rifle. This wood was a similar dark brown, 'grainless' colour as the Bren. All fittings, including the magazine, were a semi-matt black, with the exception of the bolt itself, and the rear tangent sight, which were a dull grey metal colour, reproduced as above. The butt plate was plain brass. Mix this from yellow and dark earth, with a tiny spot of silver. The carrying slings for both weapons were canvass webbing, with brass fittings, the webbing being a dark sand colour after use.
Hope this helps.
 

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