T Bolt
Colonel
Evan, somtimes it's just not worth it. 
Look here:
1:72 SKYHAWK A-4E/F HOT ROD - ITALERI # 181 | eBay
Look here:
1:72 SKYHAWK A-4E/F HOT ROD - ITALERI # 181 | eBay
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
1/72 McDonnell-Douglas A-4K Skyhawk - Your Favourite Aircraft of All Time GB
- Thread starter A4K
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
parsifal
Colonel
Would it be also possible to build up the wing shape using ribs and stringers attached to the upper wing and then gently bending the stryrene sheet that would be cut to the shape of the lower surface of the wing. You would gently and carefully glue the replacement sheet to thos stringers, which would already have been attached to the upper wing.
Or is that a silly idea
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
There's an easy way to solve the problem - make it a belly landed aircraft !
Aaron Brooks Wolters
Brigadier General
That's an idea.
T Bolt
Colonel
That would solve the missing landing gear problem too.
- Thread starter
- #66
A4K
Colonel
Cheers for the comments guys!
Seriously just considered chucking her in for now, till I read Wayne and Vic's comments yesterday. If yas' think ya can encourage me by provoking my ego then damn it - it worked!
Andy and Mike's (and Terry's ) ideas re the wings are good (cheers guys), but I have a cunning plan of my own...(insert evil laugh here )
Plan to fill the interior of the wing to a depth of about 2 mm with Wojtek's home-brew plastic paste made from sprue melted in thinners. When dry, will sand the exterior down to correct form, the paste inside forming the extra layer of plastic required (!)
At moment, cleaning up exterior of the lower wings. Glue and raised detail being removed from port wing, and shallow wheel well cut out. Panel lines will be rescribed, and new wheel wells made.
Also found some great RNZAF Skyhawk cockpit shots yesterday, which Ivett is printing off for me at her work.
Cheers Glenn for that link, btw. Would love to grab her, but there is something fundamentally wrong with paying $12 postage fo a $10.79 kit! (not as if it's heavy or bulky either!)
Seriously just considered chucking her in for now, till I read Wayne and Vic's comments yesterday. If yas' think ya can encourage me by provoking my ego then damn it - it worked!
Andy and Mike's (and Terry's
) ideas re the wings are good (cheers guys), but I have a cunning plan of my own...(insert evil laugh here )Plan to fill the interior of the wing to a depth of about 2 mm with Wojtek's home-brew plastic paste made from sprue melted in thinners. When dry, will sand the exterior down to correct form, the paste inside forming the extra layer of plastic required (!)
At moment, cleaning up exterior of the lower wings. Glue and raised detail being removed from port wing, and shallow wheel well cut out. Panel lines will be rescribed, and new wheel wells made.
Also found some great RNZAF Skyhawk cockpit shots yesterday, which Ivett is printing off for me at her work.
Cheers Glenn for that link, btw. Would love to grab her, but there is something fundamentally wrong with paying $12 postage fo a $10.79 kit! (not as if it's heavy or bulky either!)
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Sounds like a good plan, although, in the last pics, it doesn't look too bad. I'd be a bit wary about using such relatively large areas of sprue/glue mix - could possibly deform the remainder of the wing surface.
Personally, I'd insert plastic sheet, to build-up the required area to almost the required profile, then surface this with 'Milliput', sanding to shape/profile when hard. I've used a similar technique on a number of projects, including the entire front ends of engine cowlings, making a 1/48th Mosquito FBVI into a BXIX, and a 1/32nd scale Spitfire MkV into a MkIX, as well as technically easier jobs like what is needed here,with 'flat' areas of wing or fuselage.
Personally, I'd insert plastic sheet, to build-up the required area to almost the required profile, then surface this with 'Milliput', sanding to shape/profile when hard. I've used a similar technique on a number of projects, including the entire front ends of engine cowlings, making a 1/48th Mosquito FBVI into a BXIX, and a 1/32nd scale Spitfire MkV into a MkIX, as well as technically easier jobs like what is needed here,with 'flat' areas of wing or fuselage.
- Thread starter
- #68
A4K
Colonel
You could be right Terry, certainly would be easier... bloody oath, you sold me!
The bulge is more than it looks here, but that trick of yours should work fine - cheers mate!
The bulge is more than it looks here, but that trick of yours should work fine - cheers mate!
Vic Balshaw
Major General
STAND PROUD MY MAN, STAND PROUD
- Thread starter
- #71
A4K
Colonel
Cheers guys, and guilty as charged Gumby!
- Thread starter
- #72
A4K
Colonel
Into the cockpit!
This morning's progress: cleaning up and thinning down the cockpit walls.
Still deciding a plan of attack on the instrument panel hood, may cut her out and scratch a new one.
This morning's progress: cleaning up and thinning down the cockpit walls.
Still deciding a plan of attack on the instrument panel hood, may cut her out and scratch a new one.
ccheese
Member In Perpetuity
You really have your work cut out for you, but the end result will make you proud....
Charles
Charles
- Thread starter
- #74
A4K
Colonel
Thanks Charles! Hate seeing a kit go to waste (and ESPECIALLY being an A-4..!)
parsifal
Colonel
I like Terry's suggestion. hell he even makes it sound half easy (just kidding)......
Its getting there, the point is its pretty much in one piece (although its a hunchback of notre dam wing piece) and its progressing I'm sure it'll turn out great I'd use Tamiya putty to slather the top section of the canopy area (the cockpit area where the hole is) and then sand it down eventually (2-5 days of work) when it gets all glued in.
I'm sure it'll turn out great I'd use Tamiya putty to slather the top section of the canopy area (the cockpit area where the hole is) and then sand it down eventually (2-5 days of work) when it gets all glued in.- Thread starter
- #77
A4K
Colonel
Cheers Mike and Igor!
Not a bad idea Igor, but to be honest I never had much fun with Tamiya putty. Maybe my mistake somehow, but it always dried too brittle, and was never very consistent, powdery 'potholes' falling out when I sanded it down. (Anyone else have that problem??)
Not a bad idea Igor, but to be honest I never had much fun with Tamiya putty. Maybe my mistake somehow, but it always dried too brittle, and was never very consistent, powdery 'potholes' falling out when I sanded it down. (Anyone else have that problem??)
It might be the climate in which your using it, in winter it is very good but in summer if I'm in a dry area it sucks horribly :S I thought I was imagining things but this might be the case, anyway I always try to use the Tamiya putty in a cold room
P.S. If its still "dry" when sanding it try wet sanding, or applying some water onto your sanding paper and then sanding, and repeating etc. I found it gives off a better finish.
P.S. If its still "dry" when sanding it try wet sanding, or applying some water onto your sanding paper and then sanding, and repeating etc. I found it gives off a better finish.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree Evan. Tube putties, such as Tamiya, are ok for filling small holes, gaps etc, but even then not perfect, due to the pin-holing and powdering. I use this type rarely, and then only for 'rough' filling.
For areas such as required here, a two-part epoxy is needed, and none better than Milliput. This, of course, can be moulded into place, and smoothed virtually to the required shape/surface with a wet finger. When set, it can be filed, sanded, carved, drilled, tapped - whatever, and creates a perfect surface, blended with the surroundings.
For areas such as required here, a two-part epoxy is needed, and none better than Milliput. This, of course, can be moulded into place, and smoothed virtually to the required shape/surface with a wet finger. When set, it can be filed, sanded, carved, drilled, tapped - whatever, and creates a perfect surface, blended with the surroundings.
parsifal
Colonel
Games workshop have a product that you paint on. I have it at home. I call it "Green Sh*t" but that isnt the name. I can find out if you are interested. Its pretty good at 1/72, as you can apply it with a brush....water soluble, about 3 minutes drying time, easily sanded, consistent, fairly strong, very easy to apply. You would apply this as multiple coats to the roughed out wing IMO to smooth and hide the laminated layers you add with terry's method.
Anyway, there are a number of products available....go with the one that works and which you trust.
I really hope you attempt this...from a purely selfish POV. I want to see how the technique works (or doesnt) on a job as complex as this. I also want to see how you treat the surfaces to make them look authentic....rivetting effect and all that. I expect a hot needle or similar. Ive never done refinishing of panels so i am interested to see how its done
Anyway, there are a number of products available....go with the one that works and which you trust.
I really hope you attempt this...from a purely selfish POV. I want to see how the technique works (or doesnt) on a job as complex as this. I also want to see how you treat the surfaces to make them look authentic....rivetting effect and all that. I expect a hot needle or similar. Ive never done refinishing of panels so i am interested to see how its done
Users who are viewing this thread
Similar threads
