352nd Fighter Group "Blue Nosed Bastards of Bodney" Build

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I agree with Wojtek H. Another reason for leaving off the prop / spinner, on any model you can, is to prevent it getting damaged. Same as any other 'sticky out bit' which can get in the way, such as landing gear, antenna etc.
Leaving off these items, even if it means modifying the fitting in some way, prevents damage,and makes handling, and especially painting, a lot easier. I think the quote about the spinner meant that, if it was already painted before assembly, it would need re-painting afterwards, in order to blend the joints with the paint.
To answer your question about the gear doors on the P51 D, the entire inside of the wheel bays and the doors were clear-lacquered aluminium, with the exception of the rear wall of the wheel bay, which was actually the front face of the main spar for the wing. This was zinc chromate. Some colour pics of preserved Mustangs might show this area in Interior Green, or Zinc chromate, but, during WW2, it was as just described, and there is plenty of photo evididence to support this, as well as documentation.
So, basically, paint the area a matt, or semi-matt silver colour.
 
Yes but you told me to do the blue nose and the white before the metal. So if I added the spinner, unpainted, after the nose was painted blue I'd have to paint it again either way so I guess it doesn't matter if the spinner is painted before or after adding it, It'll need another coat.

Did you mean I should paint the nose blue only because I added the spinner?

I know the metal color doesn't like other colors. Just want to make sure I understand correctly that it'll need a second coat either way..

Thanks for all your help guys!
 
Harry....painting the spinner separately you would get it painted nicer than the one attached with a prop to a model.Why???? it is easy to answer - because you can paint a spinner airbrushing from all directions.This makes an impact on the painting quality.The same is with the prop. Ceratinly you should use the dry fitting before you start painting.It is for making you sure all fits corectly.
 
There is no need to apologize Mate. The scheme for a such work should be :
1. cutting parts off from sprues.
2. removing of all incorrections including remainds of mould frame traces, cavities, overflows, stamp traces and etc.....
3. Sanding and making parts smooth if it is needed.
4. washing and drying.
5. making parts unmovable for paintig ( airbrushing)
6. colouring.
7. final assembling.
8. putting away to a box if the part isn't needed for farther assembling yet.
 
Alright Wojtek will follow that!

Trying to make seatbelts out of tape.........since I have no aluminum, for my B of course, and the buckles are tough..
 
Harry , use the aluminium foil from top of a yoghurt cup for instance. It is very easy to shape and cut the foil.
 

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Okay so I started trying to make a seatbelt. Spent about 45 minutes....Looks ok. Have to make 3 more for the B

Then a few teasers of the model....I need to definitely touch up the invasion stripes.

And the seat of the P-51B
 

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True, still want to be happy with one model I build...just one . Since I want to test different NMF finish methods the next P-51B I'm making is going to be OD/Neutral Grey/Blue nose P-51B with a sharkmouth flown by John Bennett. Full invasion stripes.....again....
 

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