Consolidated B-24D LIBERATOR; 1/48 Revell

[Robert Porter]

I wonder what that "R" was for? I can't say I have ever seen that on other bombers, at least not that location. Of course I have not really searched yet either. But it is looking great! Love seeing it come together!

 

[Airframes]

It's possibly just a repeat of the code letter, but it might be a reference point for the top turret gunner, referring to 'Right' as viewed by the gunner with the turret facing aft.
I've seen this done using 'clock' positions on the inner engine nacelles, with the port, inner engine marked as '9', for 'nine o clock', and the starboard inner marked '3'.

 

[SANCER]

It is a very viable option Terry.
I can´t imagine, or have a remote idea what it meant to do such signs, to not lose the orientation in the middle of battle or adverse weather.
Mi admiración y gran respeto a todos esos hombres en batalla

I came to think that because it was an airplane that was repaired, it was changed several pieces and canvases of the fuselage, could be a mark of a changed piece.

How exciting it is to continue to know so many details of these honorable devices of history !!

Saludos

 

[turbo]

Looking great Luis. Nice work on the decaling

 

[SANCER]

Thanks Kirby

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[SANCER]

For the bottom filter, I used ultramarine and natural shade, which resulted in a dark gray-blue tone.

The resolution does not capture the detail, but you can see a difference in this photo ...

In this attempt to work on the details, I noticed that in each of the vertical stabilizers there are two Running lights (one on each side); But I noticed that those on the inner face were not as detailed as those on the outer face.

So since I started working with the stabilizers, I added a "very little" round magnet piece (of those used for acupuncture), which with CA was united.

... this is an exterior face that shows the light ...

... and before continuing the process of weathering and joining the three pieces of the rear stabilizer, I made the modification with white glue and then fix everything with AC.

I liked how the result was.

When joining the three pieces of the rear stabilizer, I had to be very careful so that the vertical stabilizers were perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer and parallel to each other. I would not want them to be misaligned or uneven, so first look for a way to join one piece and after dry the glue, join the other.

A little "strange" my way of solving it, but it is what I came up with after some other ideas.
These pieces of wood are of a puzzle that is already incomplete and are perfectly rectangular pieces, which allowed me to have a 90° angle between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer.
With rubber rubber bands I attached each pair of pieces (three pairs) which in turn held the horizontal stabilizer.
And so the night passed.

At the moment of starting the union of the other HS, I remembered the information shared by the good friend Wojtek (post # 619), with reference to the Exterior Lights of a B-24, and in reviewing it I realized that there are no lights On the inner faces of the vertical stabilizers.

I already removed them because they do not exist in "the Squaw" (although they would have seen well ... ...)

...see you soon

 

[SANCER]

For the filter on the top of the plane, I used Siena Toast,
Medium Yellow and Shadow Toast.

I liked the discreet finish, and unfortunately can not be seen clearly in the photos ...

I was encouraged to do a cold assembly of the wings, ... and it really looks great !!

It occupies much of my main desk.

I will have to temporarily change several things around and I have the dilemma of choosing the best time to permanently attach the wings !!
What can you suggest according to your experience with these sizes ??

I still intend to permanently attach the rear stabilizer with the tail turret; ...then give a general layer of Future to seal the filters.
Apply another technique of weathering on the filters, first with acrylic pencils for some chips and then with oils applied with a brush, which allows to further color the top of the paint as a result of the sun, air and paint wear.
In this same stage and also with oils, relating to spills and blasting of oils and fuel, grease and smoke from the exhaust pipes of the engines.

I do not know its feasible to do it with the wings separated or once with the wings in place ...

Well, while I'm going to finish that rear stabilizer and stick it to the fuselage ...

Pending your comments, I hope you had an excellent start to the week.

Saludos a todos

 

[turbo]

Looking great Luis, coming together nicely

With a model this size, the weathering and painting of exhaust stains, etc will inevitably be far easier before the wings are attached. Since the wings and fuselage are already painted, I see little need to attach the wings until the final touch-ups and varnish coat.

I presume the test fit of the wings is pretty good, otherwise you might have to rework some painting if any filling and sanding is required

 

[T Bolt]

Looking very very nice Luis

 

[Airframes]

Some nice work there Luis, and it's starting to look the biz.
I agree with Kirby about joining the wings.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Robert Porter]

Agree with all! Nice job!

 

[Crimea_River]

Looking great, and I agree with Kirby.

 

[SANCER]

I am among an extraordinary committee of consultants.
I will do so. I will work much more comfortable and with the tranquility of not hurting the whole structure !, until practically the end.

You´re right Kirby, the wing assembly is good, it is minimal putty what the wings will need and the resulting fine white line will be easy to retouch to make it invisible.

I am very grateful for the support throughout the process, and I believe that several of us are excited to see the final steps that are already working.

Gracias Comité

 

[Gerry]

Looking great Luis. I also agree about the wing fit. I just love how slender and needle-like they are. Very elegant for such a large aircraft.

Gerry

 

[SANCER]

How nice to hear from you about these places, Gerry, thank you for your words.

Not long ago in post # 590 I showed them how the roof window of the cockpit was; Days later she fell from my desk without me realizing it, until I saw my lady dog ("La Mona"), who was beginning to chew something ... I barely arrived in time to avoid a worse catastrophe !!

The timely rescue left the piece in these conditions ...

And I did not think it was so serious, ... until yesterday when it started to remove the masking, the reality of the condition of the piece ...

The front window is broken ...
Very carefully I removed the blue tape, and there were a couple more windows that were damaged ... !!

...The guilty...

... is a calamity, although it could have been worse.

The front window has a clean cut and does not affect the overall structure of the window.
Do you think there is a way to recover the appearance of the whole piece?
I am aware that I do not think she will recover more than 80-85%.

Well, meanwhile the second horizontal stabilizer is already sticking ...

An overview of the stage ...

Greetings. ... ...any ...

 

[turbo]

Oh no, canine battle damage!!

If any of the marks are abrasions rather than cracks you might be able to sand them out with increasingly fine sanding sticks until polished and then coat with Future. For the cracked panel on the front I think you've got the following options:

1. Run Future into the crack and let dry. Sand as above if necessary then final coat of Future. The crack will probably still be visible but will be improved.

2. Cut the damaged panel out along the frame line and replace with a spare panel cut from this or another kit (if you have one), a piece of acetate sheet, CD cover, or whatever else might do the job.

3. Contact Revell and request a new part.

4. Vacform or thermoform a new part, but this is a bigger PITA.

Good luck Bad girl La Mona, ruff, ruff...

 

[Wayne Little]

Doing a great job Luis.

 

[Wurger]