A4K
Brigadier General
Great work Peter!
**** DONE: 1/48 Focke-Wulf Fw190 A-3 8./JG2 "Black 13" - Me/ Fw Group Build
- Thread starter ozhawk40
- Start date
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N4521U
Plastic Pirate
Cheers Wayne and Bill
Mr Little is the one for setting benchmarks, I just fumble along!Your thinking ahead anyway Bill, that one doesn't start to November, in the meantime what are you going to pull out for the aces build?
Cheers Peter
Aces will be the last Yak-1b, white 23, of the "WHITE ROSE OF STALINGRAD" Lydia Vladimirovna Litvyak (Moscow, August 18, 1921 – August 1, 1943), also known as Lydia Litviak or Lilya Litviak, was a fighter pilot in the Soviet Air Force during World War II. With 12 solo victories (but some authors say 11 or even 13 and either two, or four, shared) gained in 66 combat missions, she is one of the world's only two female fighter aces, along with Katya Budanova. How's that for pulling another out of left field?? If the kit ever gets here from the States from a friend of mine.......
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- Thread starter
- #63
ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Thanks Evan and T.
Cheers Bill, sounds like an interesting subject for sure.
Speaking of fumbles, I need to do a fix up on the flaps on Black 13. I started this one a couple of years back, and in the process of cutting out the flaps to fit etch replacements, I also removed the wing trailing edge. The flaps on the 190 sit forward and don't finish right at the trailing edge, so big mistake. Having made this stuff up, I hid the offending kit it's cardboard box in the back corner of the cupboard. I had intended to get back to it sometime never, but I had a change of mind for this GB.
Pic 1
Here's the gaff. There a thin strip of plastic should remain along the trailing edge of the wing. I tried to retain this as I cut out the flaps, but the thickness of the knife I was using distorted and stretched the thin strip to a point that I had to remove them.
Pic 2
Okay, here's the photo etch flaps. They are, even when assembled, a little two dimensional to replicate the real deal, as they should have a triangular cross section. Still I am going to display them only partially open, so this shouldn't matter too much. I've noticed on a couple of pictures they do tend to droop, including this pic of black13.
Pic 3
This pic shows the assembled wing with the upper photo etch detail affixed to the wing top half.
Pic 4
I've added thin strips of polystyrene sheet to the trailing edge. I'll sand these back and make good before primer and paint.
Pic 5
Pic of the assembled flaps. I think some resin ones would be better if I was doing this again, but they turned out okay. I'll add these after paint.
End of update. 8)
Cheers
Peter
Cheers Bill, sounds like an interesting subject for sure.
Speaking of fumbles, I need to do a fix up on the flaps on Black 13. I started this one a couple of years back, and in the process of cutting out the flaps to fit etch replacements, I also removed the wing trailing edge. The flaps on the 190 sit forward and don't finish right at the trailing edge, so big mistake. Having made this stuff up, I hid the offending kit it's cardboard box in the back corner of the cupboard. I had intended to get back to it sometime never, but I had a change of mind for this GB.
Pic 1
Here's the gaff. There a thin strip of plastic should remain along the trailing edge of the wing. I tried to retain this as I cut out the flaps, but the thickness of the knife I was using distorted and stretched the thin strip to a point that I had to remove them.
Pic 2
Okay, here's the photo etch flaps. They are, even when assembled, a little two dimensional to replicate the real deal, as they should have a triangular cross section. Still I am going to display them only partially open, so this shouldn't matter too much. I've noticed on a couple of pictures they do tend to droop, including this pic of black13.
Pic 3
This pic shows the assembled wing with the upper photo etch detail affixed to the wing top half.
Pic 4
I've added thin strips of polystyrene sheet to the trailing edge. I'll sand these back and make good before primer and paint.
Pic 5
Pic of the assembled flaps. I think some resin ones would be better if I was doing this again, but they turned out okay. I'll add these after paint.
End of update. 8)
Cheers
Peter
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #64
ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff Peter.
Looking good!
love it
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good progress. The PE flaps don't look bad at all.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Nicely done Peter, looks a treat.
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Very nice work on the interior and a good solution on the flaps.
T Bolt
Colonel
Real nice work Peter.
- Thread starter
- #75
ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Thanks Guys
Today's update is on the start of paint work
Pic 1
In preparation for yellow rudder, lower cowl and the white cross markings, I have sprayed the areas in Model Master white.
Pic 2
The fuselage crosses are made by creating a 'negative' image (replacing white with black) of the decals to actual size and then printing them on paper. These are cut out and taped over some Tamiya tape. I use a surgical scalpel to cut the crosses out, cutting the tape below.
Pic 3
Here's the result. I've already used one set in this pic.
Pic 4
To set up these on the fuselage, I form a cross with tape cut to the same width as the interior of the cross and apply the masks in the corners.
Pic 5
Here's the result after removing the interior cross
Pic 6
Other side was done exactly the same. I think this is going to look better than the decals, as the large area of clear film always seems to create problems with silvering - or maybe that's just me!
Pic 7
Okay fuselage done, now I add the white areas to the top of the wings. This aircraft has, according to the instructions, just the white outlines on the top surface.
Pic 8
Masks completed in the same way for the wings.
Thanks for the kind words and another update will be made soon - I gotta get this one done by EOM!
8)
Cheers
Peter
Today's update is on the start of paint work
Pic 1
In preparation for yellow rudder, lower cowl and the white cross markings, I have sprayed the areas in Model Master white.
Pic 2
The fuselage crosses are made by creating a 'negative' image (replacing white with black) of the decals to actual size and then printing them on paper. These are cut out and taped over some Tamiya tape. I use a surgical scalpel to cut the crosses out, cutting the tape below.
Pic 3
Here's the result. I've already used one set in this pic.
Pic 4
To set up these on the fuselage, I form a cross with tape cut to the same width as the interior of the cross and apply the masks in the corners.
Pic 5
Here's the result after removing the interior cross
Pic 6
Other side was done exactly the same. I think this is going to look better than the decals, as the large area of clear film always seems to create problems with silvering - or maybe that's just me!
Pic 7
Okay fuselage done, now I add the white areas to the top of the wings. This aircraft has, according to the instructions, just the white outlines on the top surface.
Pic 8
Masks completed in the same way for the wings.
Thanks for the kind words and another update will be made soon - I gotta get this one done by EOM!
8)
Cheers
Peter
Attachments
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Nice work Peter, I've a feeling you're onto a good outcome with this formula.
- Thread starter
- #77
ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Cheers Vic
Onto the next stage. Yellow.
Pic 1
I use white for a base before spraying the yellow, as yellow is a very transparent colour. The white underneath makes the yellow seem brighter than if I had used grey primer.
Pic 2 3
I decided to do some pre-shading to the lower cowl and rudder leading edge. The colour I'm using is obviously red, but when the yellow is added over the top it will take on a brown/ orange look in the areas shaded.
Pic 4 5
Here are the areas with the first coat of yellow. Not quite the way I want them. Getting there.
Pic 6 7
Final yellow coat. I'll back mask these areas for the next stage.
End of update.
Cheers
Peter
Onto the next stage. Yellow.
Pic 1
I use white for a base before spraying the yellow, as yellow is a very transparent colour. The white underneath makes the yellow seem brighter than if I had used grey primer.
Pic 2 3
I decided to do some pre-shading to the lower cowl and rudder leading edge. The colour I'm using is obviously red, but when the yellow is added over the top it will take on a brown/ orange look in the areas shaded.
Pic 4 5
Here are the areas with the first coat of yellow. Not quite the way I want them. Getting there.
Pic 6 7
Final yellow coat. I'll back mask these areas for the next stage.
End of update.
Cheers
Peter
Attachments
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looks great Peter, is there a reason your painting the crosses and not useing decals ?
- Thread starter
- #79
ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Cutting the masks is very simple, 5 min job, and because these decals (if I used them) have a large area of clear film, application needs to be spot on, otherwise I get silvering, so to me it makes sense to do it. 8)
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