**** DONE: GB-41 1:72 Spitfire MK VIII - PTO from 1937 (1 Viewer)

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Distractions, friend of mine just unloaded 4 carburetors on me, wants them rebuilt by the weekend, like that's gonna happen ! The mystery at hand. A,B or C ? C is out, not building that version. That leaves A or B, the only difference is the oleo scissors, should they face forward or backwards. From what I can see in most of the pictures I've found they face forwards. or does it really matter. There's no explanation as to which set to use ?


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There's no explanation as to which set to use ?

How it is not? It is clearly stated I would say. The A and B you may uese optionally for the A variant of marking ( Spit coded RG-V ) and the C for the B variant of painting ( Spit coded HB)

IMHO it is because the same set of the kit sprues is offered as the Dual combo kits with markings for 31 different aircraft. Also as the Profi pack and a couple of kits more both for the Mk.VIII and HF Mk.VII.
 
How it is not? It is clearly stated I would say. The A and B you may uese optionally for the A variant of marking ( Spit coded RG-V ) and the C for the B variant of painting ( Spit coded HB)

IMHO it is because the same set of the kit sprues is offered as the Dual combo kits with markings for 31 different aircraft. Also as the Profi pack and a couple of kits more both for the Mk.VIII and HF Mk.VII.

I must be seriously losing my marbles. I'm building the A version, or marking. Under it shows two different landing gear. The red letters I put there.
 
Yep, they are as shown in the instructions, with 'A' diagram showing left (port) and right (starboard) views, inverted.
It would help if kit manufacturers, and others, refrained from using 'left' and 'right' in diagrams and descriptions, as it can be confusing - left when viewed from front or rear ?
The use of 'port' and starboard' is much simpler, and specific (although for modellers unfamiliar with the correct description, 'right' and 'left' could also be included as part of the diagram / description.).
 
Maybe I am losing my marbles ! What I've marked A & B are identical except for the placement of the oleo scissors. Four different part numbers for the struts as well yet they all appear identical. The front of the instructions has all the parts marked off that don't apply to either of these two versions or what they refer to as " marking A or B " but they haven't marked off any landing gear ? At any rate I'm not going to sweat it lest I start having dreams about Jimmy Hoffa eloping with Amilia Earhart !
 
"The Spitfire Mk VIII aircraft that were delivered to Australia only used three types of oleo struts, the strut types are as follows; 91545, 91901 and 91986, all three before mentioned oleo struts were used on the F and LF Mk VIII aircraft while the HF Mk VIII only used 91986 struts.

The 91545 Oleo Strut Type used a splined ram.
The 91901 Oleo Strut Type used torque/torsion links ( aft torque/torsion link ) , as noted in Australian, Directorate of Technical Services Archival Documents dated 26 October plus 8 and 12 November 1943 as well.
The 91986 Oleo Strut Type used torque/torsion links ( forward torque/torsion link )."

the info source: the post #14: Spitfire VIII Landing Gear

And also here...

The British Air Ministry document dated on the 28th of June 1943, Reference A.163676/41/S.M.8. identifies Spitfire Main Undercarriage Oleo Struts ..

Spitfire FVII Oleo Strut Types 91545, 91901
Spitfire FVIII Oleo Strut Types 91545, 91901
Spitfire FVIII TROP. Oleo Strut Types 91545, 91901

From S. 84993/II/S.M.8.

Oleo Strut (Splined Ram) Type 91545: Spitfire VII, VIII
Oleo Strut (Link Type) Type 91901: Spitfire VA, VB, VC, VII, VIII, IX, XI, XII, XIII
Oleo Strut (Link Type) Type 91986: Spitfire VC, VII, VIII, IX, XI, XII / Seafire II, III

"Australian technical documents on Spitfire Mk. VIII aircraft describe their Mk. VIII aircraft as having Type 91901 Oleo Struts with Torque Links."

- RAAF Directorate of Technical Services dated 28 October 1943 states:

Undercarriage
Struts are type 91901 with torque links instead of splined ram as on V.C No bronze bushes.

- RAAF Technical Order, Spitfire Instruction No. 23 promulgated during October of 1944 for example describe the following Oleo struts as being extant on Australian Spitfires;

Spitfire F, LF Mk. VIII. Vickers Oleo Pneumatic Type 91945, Type 91901 and Type 91986
Spitfire HF Mk. VIII. Vickers Oleo Pneumatic Type 91986

There are also more primary source technical documents held in Australian Archives that have been promulgated by both British and Australian authors that further describe and document the following 91901 and 91986 Oleo Struts as "Link Types" "Torque Types" & "Torsion Types" interchangeably while also nothing that the Type 91245 Oleo Strut for example is only a Splined Ram Type.

- A document promulgated by No. 2 Aircraft Depot RAAF in response to letters dated 1 March and 9 September 1943 respectively that describes differences between aircraft models received from overseas was received by the Air Board on 13 January 1944 it describes the following;

New type of undercarriage strut fitted (91986) this strut has torque link arms fitted to the front of the strut making necessary the repositioning of the brake hose on rear of spat. It also has a single piece strut axle bracket, previous models having a double piece bracket.

The Type 91901 oleo strut had the torque link arms on the back while Type 91986 had them on the front. The question now is did the Type 91945 have torque link arms at all and if it did where were they located, front or back?

The info and a nice discussion here: Spitfire Landing Gear Oleos

And...
"Type 91545 struts feature no torque/torsion links, Type 91901 struts feature aft torque/torsion links plus full bounce cut outs on the upper and lower link sleeves and Type 91986 struts feature forward torque/torsion links. These variations can sometimes be hard to spot, that said what one must look for is the following points: the Type 91545 struts start to taper above the top of the tyre. The Type 91901 struts don't taper above the tyre and can appear as if there's no taper or a slightly larger portion above the tyre which is related to the angle of the observer, also when viewed from the side the full bounce cut outs can be seen. You will not see the aft torque/torsion links at all because they are hidden completely by the wheel and tyre. The Type 91986 are perhaps the easiest to notice since they feature prominent forward torque/torsion links that are visible above the tyre."

the info source: the post #1: Spitfire Legs (Warning Picture Heavy!)
 
You don't see it because it's not there ! The Instructions or the set of parts are wrong. Not being very up on Spitfires nuts and bolts wise it took me a bit to figure out what was up. PE1 (A) is supposed to replace ridiculously thick part B40 from the kit but it doesn't exist. PE1 is actually the frame for the back of the seat so I ended up making one out of beer can aluminum. B40 (D) is too thick and wouldn't work with the PE seat frame and besides I knew it was way thicker than the armoured plate that sits back there unless it was made of concrete ! The other thing is part B, no where on the instructions does it show this part used, it took me a while to figure out it's the frame for the inside of the cockpit door or flap. Fantastic kit though. First Eduard kit I've done and it's perfect so far !


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I need to drink more more beer in cans! Great work so far and I hate it when Eduard get's it wrong but great catches in there by Andy and Wurger
 
I prefer beer in bottles myself but the War Dept claims you get slightly more beer for less money in cans and they're easier to turn in so she wins. Yes thanks Andy and Wurger. Some great info suddenly it all makes sense. I hope the parts guy at Supermarine liked beer, feel kind of bad for the guy now !
 
Some time to get back at it. Started painting. I gave up on the PE radiator flaps, to many microscopic bits that no one will see and they didn't fit very well so I scrapped them. The covers for the landing gear needed to have a compound curve in them. I made a die to press them into with a moto tool and a piece of oak and a jewelers dap but they ended up looking not so great so I scrapped them as well. The kit covers are great as is with lots of detail anyways. Now for the painting !

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SpitMK8 (32)r.jpg
 
I found that too. I just keep pulling it like a taffy pull till it warms and softens a bit. Also rolling it doesn't work. I stretch it out till it's like string and then cut it with scissors. Sticks pretty good then. Silly Putty ? absolutely no luck with that !
 

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