Crimea_River
Marshal
That's awesome Dwight! Was there a splinter scheme on the topsides or are you leaving it the one colour?
Hs 123 A-1, "Red T"10./Lg 2; Greece April, 1941 Group Build
- Thread starter kgambit
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vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Beautifully done Dwight.
- Thread starter
- #83
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Thanks VB, Andy and Wojtek.
Andy, it's going to be a monotone RLM 70.
I took my cue from the following profile as well as some info I got from the Monogram Guide to Luftwaffe Aircraft and several others that said that solid colors were common on the HS 123. At any rate, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! 
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109ROAMING
2nd Lieutenant
f**king nice mate! Love this bird , can't wait for more
imalko
Chief Master Sergeant
Great paint job mate. Looking forward to see it done.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Andy, it's going to be a monotone RLM 70.
I learned something today. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #87
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Damnit all to hell. The decals were sh!te and I had a massive reaction to the future clear coat when I tried applying them. See the picture below.
No way can I get this done today. Anyone have any ideas as to what happened, and what I can do to correct the problem and make sure it doesn't happen again? I'm not sure what happened but it looks like the Micro Sol might have reacted with the Future clear coat.
This just totally pisses me off.
And unfortunately it means the HS 126 won't get done either as I am not going to risk this happening twice until I know what happened.
So until I can get this figured out, I am stopping work on BOTH entries. I'll settle for the MTO group build badge and basically withdraw this and the Hs 126 from the judging competition.
No way can I get this done today. Anyone have any ideas as to what happened, and what I can do to correct the problem and make sure it doesn't happen again? I'm not sure what happened but it looks like the Micro Sol might have reacted with the Future clear coat.
This just totally pisses me off.
And unfortunately it means the HS 126 won't get done either as I am not going to risk this happening twice until I know what happened.
So until I can get this figured out, I am stopping work on BOTH entries. I'll settle for the MTO group build badge and basically withdraw this and the Hs 126 from the judging competition.
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what a nightmare Dwight, such a shame i hope you can rescue it
- Thread starter
- #89
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Thanks rochie. I didn't have this problem with the future and the decals I put on the spinners on the SM82, so I'm not even sure what caused it this time. My guess is that the Future and the Micro Sol reacted but I don't know why. I THOUGHT I had let the Future clear coat dry long enough, maybe it wasn't dry enough. That's just a guess.
I'm just totally bummed out.
imalko
Chief Master Sergeant
What a shame. Sorry to hear about your problems with decals. I wish I could offer you some piece of advice about this, but I'm puzzled same as you as why this had happened.
Dwight seems this has happened with me before and it seemed the future had only been applied for a few hours.I go with Wojek on htis one use the same firms clears.What I do for weathering is starting compile an inventory of acrylics and water colors.Cheers Kevin
Oh Yeah Dwight let it sit for awhile it should dry out.Kevin
Oh Yeah Dwight let it sit for awhile it should dry out.Kevin
- Thread starter
- #93
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
German crosses are black, white and black. Black exterior rim, then white and black interior.
The Future worked JUST fine on the decals I applied to the SM 82 props. Only difference was the paint iirc. The SM 82 props had Tamiya flat black on the backside and Tamiya gunmetal on the front; the Hs 123 had polly scale paints.
I just found the problem: Direct from Swanny's Future guide:
Decal Setting Solution Reactions: Strong decal setting solutions, like Micro-Sol, will react with Future that has not cured fully and create a white haze. Do not dispare, this haze will disappear when you apply a second coating of Future. Remember to always allow your Future to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before applying decals.
I could have sworn that I had waited a FULL 24 hours - maybe I just needed more patience.
At any rate, I'll give it a second coat and let it dry for a damn week!
Yep Kevin. That seems to be the problem. Future hadn't been cured long enough. Will the haze disappear on it's own? Or does it need a second coat of Future?
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I see Mate. But wait. If these crosses can cover the damaged area, I mean it won't be seen from under the cross, you can apply some gloss varnish of Tamiya for instance on the damaged area.When dried apply the cross.And then the matt cote on it. I hope teh Tamiya gloss varnish won't get a such reaction with the Poly paints and Future.
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- #96
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
The haze area extends beyond the Hackenkreuze outline - not a bad idea though.
@Kevin - Thanks. Hopefully you're right. I'm just going to let it sit for a while and see what happens. Any idea how long it took for the haze to disappear? A couple of hours? A day?
- Thread starter
- #98
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Set my timer.
The decals were still going to be an issue. The first set I had hoped to use would not set up and the second set was registered badly. So I'm still in need of decals anyway.
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vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Man, that has be be aggravating as <cough>!
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- #100
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Yeah, that's close to my first reaction ..... which was something along the lines of
@$^!@^ $@^%! #%$!#% %%@# Mother Frackin' DECALS!
