I'm Finally Back

[Airframes]

Nice work on the prop Aaron. If you aren't going to display the engine, leave it out, and fit the exhausts into the cowling slots, on a piece of plastic card backing.
I seem to remember having 'engine problems' with this kit 25+ years ago, and displayed it with the cowlings off.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you for the info Terry. I have been at it for a while and after drilling through the cowl and and getting the engine fitted I have come to a conclusion. 1.) They didn't have the gear reduction for the prop drive on the front of the engine, therefore 2.) The engine sits to far forward in the airframe,therefore 3.) They positioned the exhaust further back on the heads to make them fit through the slots made for them in the cowling and the engine strut pin to cowl attachments don't line up either. WHAT A MESS!!!!!! Here are some shot of what I have so far.

 

[Shinpachi]

Nice and fantastic, Aaron!!!
You are pro

 

[Tony Hill]

Looking great despite the problems Aaron!!

 

[vikingBerserker]

Very nice Aaron

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you guys for the complements. I have taken the evening off from the Mustang. Must decide where to and how best to cut the engine block to keep the prop shaft functional and yet still get the fuselage to fit properly. I also have some errors to correct. I was up WAY to late last night.

 

[Airframes]

Good work Aaron, and looks like you deserve a rest !
I'd suggest cutting off the extreme front of the engine retaining the prop shaft. Consign the engine to the spares box or skip, as it is way inaccurate, looking more like an Allison, and would need re-painting anyway, as would the coolant tank, as the colours aren't quite right.
Put strips of plastic card on the inside faces of the exhausts, and glue these to the insides of the cowlings, allowing the exhaust stubs to protrude through the cowling slot. That should fix things.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Terry. I will have to get some card material for the exhaust port fix. The upper cowling frame won't fit because the rocker covers are way to large.

 

[Lucky13]

I say old boy, looks rather dogs spherical don't you know, smashing good work what!

 

[Airframes]

Sherry, Bertie?

 

[T Bolt]

Aaron, I agree with Terry. Loose the engine. Way too much trouble for something you aren't even going to see. As far as the prop shaft, if you can live with the prop not turning you can eliminate that too. Just leave it out, and when the rest of the model is complete cut a disk out of thin card and glue it over the prop shaft hole, and glue the spinner to the card disk. Thickness of the card should be equal to the gap you want between the fuselage and the spinner. I've done this several times with Smer models where the prop attachment was hopeless and it works great.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I had thought about that TBolt. The holes for the shaft are way to large and will probably leave the prop dangling so I would say it will probably look better to just mount it solid. Thank you for the advice sir. And thank you Terry and Jan for the complements guys! And I have a question. Should these be open or closed while on the ground. I have been looking and have not been able to find anything definitive. I have seen them in both positions so.

 

[Airframes]

The small flap is the oil cooler outlet shutter, the larger one the radiator shutter. Both were normally open on the ground, although the oil cooler tended to be only slightly open.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you sir. Very much appreciated. As soon as I get them installed I do believe I can fit the fuselage together. I will have to find a filler to hide the seems with. I am wondering if a air dry putty will work, we have some at the shop for filling small imperfections.

 

[Airframes]

If not, and it's a fairly small gap in the joints, then mix some talcum powder with either clear varnish or a light grey paint. It should be the consistency of thin porridge. Just brush this into the joint lines, or use a tooth pick/cocktail stick, and let it set. Most of it will find its own level, and can be easily sanded, although you might have to repeat the application.

 

[Njaco]

If not, and it's a fairly small gap in the joints, then mix some talcum powder with either clear varnish or a light grey paint. It should be the consistency of thin porridge. Just brush this into the joint lines, or use a tooth pick/cocktail stick, and let it set. Most of it will find its own level, and can be easily sanded, although you might have to repeat the application.

Aaron, Terry gave me this tip for my 410 and it works GREAT! Amazing.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you AGAIN Terry!!!

 

[Airframes]

No problem mate !

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I now have the fuselage together and am waiting for it to dry so I can fill the seem and sand. I forgot my sand paper and left it at the shop so I'll have to wait to sand it until tomorrow. Once it has had a bit to dry I will fill the seems and take a photo or three.
Ok, found some sanding boards I had forgotten about so the filler is some what sanded. I need to get a finer grit though. I am not fond of not having the engine but was way to far astray to fit. I had a gap behind the cockpit and just ahead of it. Squeezed the filler in the rest as best I could and will final sand tomorrow.

 

[Njaco]

ask the wifey if she has some emory boards. Work like a charm for fine sanding.