Me 262 Mistel combination, projected - Me/ Fw Group Build

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That's a nasty little indentation Even, taking a look at my kit I would say if I'm not too late, your best bet is to plug the gap as the area concerned looks to me like the original cockpit sill which would have been a weak spot and sunk inward. My thought would be to reinforce the sill inside and then fill the gap with something quite solid such as layers of Mr Surface. I would also be inclined to scrape back the overfill at first rather than file.
 
Cheers Vic and Andy for the advice, much appreciated!

A modelling friend at work recommended superglue rather than putty, as provides a harder surface for scribing (dries quicker too of course!). Since you mention Mr. Surfacer though Vic , I might try and pick some of that up and give it a go if you think it would be better. (never used it myself, so no idea what sort of material it is)
 
Nice work Evan. Haven't used Mr Surfacer myself either, so can't advise there. Milliput would be my choice, but if the other stuff is better for this type of work, then give it a go.
 
Mr. Surfacer is just a very thick primer paint Evan. I believe it comes in a couple of grades 500 and 1000 but there may be more. I'd say it's too soft to hold a nice scribe line. Putty definitely is not good for scribing. CA would be good. Can't comment on milliput as I've not used it for fillling.
 

That is correct Andy, though it does have a hardening agent in it which makes it a good solid surface to work on and it dries hard within a couple of hours though I prefer to leave it overnight, as for grading 500 is for filling gaps and if layered will do the job well forming a solid build-up, the 1000 is good for working into fine gaps as with it being thinner capillary action takes place, it fills those little hairline gaps very nicely.
 
I use superglue a lot for that kinda stuff Evan. If you do just remember to hit it with accelerator as soon as you have it on, then work fast with the file followed by the sand paper because after about a half hour the superglue gets real hard and is hard to file.
 
Great advice guys, thanks!

Got the Mr.Surfacer 500 today, but in light of above comments will reserve that for other such uses where scribing isn't necessary (the guys in the LHS reckon it's great for filling small indentations where normal putty would fall out of)
They also had the 1000 Andy mentioned and a 1200 grade as well btw.

Will go with the superglue method I think, though no accelerator here (that I know of - nor Milliput or Kleer...damn)

Today is Focke-Wulf day, so will continue with the Mistel soon.
 
Evan,

To be honest the Superglue as a putty isn't as good as it seems.Especially if you need to cover quite big areas. It is good when you need to fill quite thin long gaps or apertures. The kind of a putty has a bad feature of cracking at edges when scribing. the reason for that is that styrene isn't so hard as the glue is. Just the difference is like between the reasin parts and plactic pieces.. The best solution is to use something what is of the same properties like the model styrene. A such putty can be made using a "nitro" thinner and the styrene powder. Instead of the " nitro" one it might be a very thin glue for plastic. The styrene powder can be obtained by scribing or filing a piece of a sprue. Then mixed with the thin glue. Of course the styrene dust will be melted by the glue ( thinner) But that's it. The kind of putty has to be very thick. Then it can be applied on these gaps. If it is done with a thin layer its time of hardening will be short. Usually two or three layers of it are enough to fill gaps. The most important thing is to apply them precisely in order to keep most of surface clear of the glue-putty ( it is just still a glue for styrene though ). The break period between applying these layers should be a hald of a day. Also the total time for full getting harden of all layers should be about a week or so. Then sanding for shaping and polishing..quite standard activities.
I know it is quite long lasting way but it is worth waiting. You have gaps filled with the same styrene like the entire model is made of. So the scribing at these filled areas runs in a material of the same features.
 
Dzieki my friend! I've got Nitro thinners, so will try that then. (not worried about the time, just want it to look right)

Btw, what is the 'playing' time of the mix? (how soon must it be applied after mixing?)
 
Usually I mix this in a small glass bottle with air-tight cap. You know.... 1/2 of the thinner and some of the plastic dust... then shaking. When all the dust is melted the another dusty batch and then shaking ( mixing) again. And then the next portion.... and again shaking etc.... at the end you need to use something rigid for stiring. If the container has a hermetic cap you can store it quite long. So the play time doesn't matter. If it gets thicken you will add some of the thinner.
 
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Ah, I wish I'd remembered that before my earlier reply. I heard of this technique but haven't used it but from what I understand this would be the best option to fill the gap you have. Good one Wojtek.
 
Evan, don't try superglue on large areas without accelerator what ever you do. With the accelerator it stays soft for some time (at least 1/2 hour) so you can file it down. after that it gets real hard, much harder than the plastic and is a b!tch to file. With out the accelerator it drys unevenly and if you wait for it all to get set enough to file, some will already be too hard. I'm talking about the thick superglue here. The thin stuff sets up much faster and you could get buy without the accelerator' but it doesn't fill gaps too well.
 
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