Ugh. I'm not looking forward to this build I'm doing. (Airbrushing camo)

[[SC] Arachnicus]

Well I did the motts and they look okay to me. I think I will free hand the camo on the wings. It's not very complex, so I'm just going to go for it. I did some free hand coloring where the wings meet the fuselage and did a okay job.

 

[mikewint]

Could not agree more with everyone else. It has only been 3 years since I started airbrushing and I was even more fearful of what I would screw up. Don't be afraid just do it. Start with water, add some food color and doodle on everything. Get some cheap paint and dooldle some more. HAVE FUN and enjoy what you are doing. It is your model make it the way you want it. No one will care if the exact shade of cammo as used by Schroders Flying wing in the 1942 winter campaign in Boofoo, Egypt does not match. Making models is first and foremost FUN

 

[[SC] Arachnicus]

I just made a arch cut out of poster board and painted a old i-phone plastic case. Made the edges a bit fuzzy and it worked out.

Screw it, I'm going for it!

 

[N4521U]

Ataboy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Wayne Little]

Good stuff, go for it!

 

[stona]

It is your model make it the way you want it. No one will care if the exact shade of cammo as used by Schroders Flying wing in the 1942 winter campaign in Boofoo, Egypt does not match. Making models is first and foremost FUN

Amen to that!

Well said.

Steve

 

[[SC] Arachnicus]

I did the camo. Looks okay. I did the method where you mask it with thick paper, (poster board). I tried to spray under it to give it the fuzzy end work. It worked okay. For the first time spraying camo, I'm happy.

Now here is the thing I am not happy with....

The light blue I painted on the fuselage is too blue. It was the color I was supposed to use. Oh well, not much I can do now about it.

 

[Crimea_River]

We could help more if you post some pics.

 

[[SC] Arachnicus]

I'll post a pic as soon as a part of it has dried.

 

[Zaggy]

I've been experimenting with applying mottle's again recently and thus going to share a bit more; especially if you're using acrylics (which have a habit of drying faster and thus fouling most airbrushes after 15min or so - I havent yet experimented with retarders tho, to slow things down)... What I have found useful is to actually do you mottling first - ie, let's assume I am doing a Fw 190D-11, in a RLM75/76/82/83 scheme and I have done the bare metal stuff and the RLM76. What I am currently doing in apply the mottles at this point, working from the feintest, lowest mottles upwards; once the mottling is done, then I'm finishing the rest of the fuselage upper colours (in this case, 82/83)...

The pro's are, I'm mottling with the FRESHEST paint possible and I'm starting with the most difficult, detail work; plus its a whole lot easier to touch up small area's of mottling with RLM76, before finishing up with the larger area's of dark colour.

This is by NO MEANS the definitive, perfect way to do it - just a method I'm playing with ATM


Dan

 

[Zaggy]

I've been experimenting with applying mottle's again recently and thus going to share a bit more; especially if you're using acrylics (which have a habit of drying faster and thus fouling most airbrushes after 15min or so - I havent yet experimented with retarders tho, to slow things down)... What I have found useful is to actually do you mottling first - ie, let's assume I am doing a Fw 190D-11, in a RLM75/76/82/83 scheme and I have done the bare metal stuff and the RLM76. What I am currently doing in apply the mottles at this point, working from the feintest, lowest mottles upwards; once the mottling is done, then I'm finishing the rest of the fuselage upper colours (in this case, 82/83)...

The pro's are, I'm mottling with the FRESHEST paint possible and I'm starting with the most difficult, detail work; plus its a whole lot easier to touch up small area's of mottling with RLM76, before finishing up with the larger area's of dark colour.

This is by NO MEANS the definitive, perfect way to do it - just a method I'm playing with ATM


Dan

 

[N4521U]

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[[SC] Arachnicus]

I'm not done yet. I have not glued on the canopy parts yet. This was the hardest model I have ever done so far. I WILL do a better one in the future when my skills develop.

 

[N4521U]

Nuthin there Not to be proud of mate!
dun good

 

[Hotntot]

Looks good from what I can see. Just like any creative/artistic work, you'll always feel there are areas that can be improved upon. (...and so on it is to the next project). Any more pics coming to show off your good work?

 

[Wurger]

I echo the post above. Not too bad at all.

 

[[SC] Arachnicus]

Yeah I will take more detailed pics of my planes. I'll make a separate thread. I was going to shoot all of them in my light box but am too lazy to set up all the lighting so I'll shoot them outdoors.

The one thing I noticed about the 109's is that no two ever looked the same.

 

[[SC] Arachnicus]

By the way, I have yet to have a perfect masking job on a plane. I have tried different tapes, a liquid mask, (I did not like), and I always make sure the tape along paint lines are firmly pressed.

And tips or tape recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[N4521U]

I, like most others I think, find the Tamiya tape the best for me for water based paint.
Automotive painters use a synthetic green tape, called "fine line", but it doesn't like water, enamels yes.

 

[Wurger]

The Tamiya making tape is the best one. It is offered of a few sizes from large to narrow one. Here a few pictures....

Masking tape is a very good one for making camo spots when these have quite "sharp" edges at colour "borderlines". For these of "soft borderlines" I would recommend a BlueTack plasticine.