Zaggs Fw 190D-9 211164 - Black <4 and his continuing scratchbuilding adventures...

Looking good!

@Crimea - why the need for nose surgery? Well it all goes back to the Trimaster C-0/C-1 kit, that was a mixed-media, H-1 conversion.

The original Trimaster kit was a H-1 kit, plus a set of resin wings and nose section, to replace the 'long' H-1 wings with the short wings and the Jumo213E power-egg, with the DB603LA (or whatever other variant DB603 was installed). Like many of the Resin and Metal parts on the eary Trimaster (and Hasegawa issues???), DML cut new sprues for these parts to be cast in plastic - in the case of the H-1, the landing gear became plastic, etc - and in the case of the Resin C-0/C-1 conversion, the wings and power-egg (engine/radiator cowl, prop, spinner, supercharger intake, etc), were cast in plastic... And thats as far as they went!!! DML didnt bother to recut the fuselage...

So, if you go have a peek-a-boo at your instruction sheet, you'll note (with some degree of vagery (is that spelt right??) thank you) a separate nose section in the 'parts layout' diagram and that the plastic Jumo213 nose has to be REMOVED!!! Its not very well explained in the instructions actually, and thus my delight when I discovered the HobbyBoss C-0/C-1 (my delight in the HobbyBoss kit has evaporated with the realisation that the Errors in shape CANT be fixed)...

And because I am SUCH A GREAT BLOKE:





Can't say I'd choose the Dragon Kit if they were both on offer (and I didnt know about the fuselage extension issue) and I knew about the Surgery required on the Dragon kit - expecially considering the price (HobbyBoss kit is cheaper), the 'features' (such as control surfaces/flaps on the HobbyBoss offering) and the over all engineering of the kit (the HobbyBoss kit has been veryt well thought out, if lacking in the execution)...

Thanks for the excellent explanation. My Dragon kit was an impulse buy a year ago, not being willing to leave my LHS empty handed. Now that you explained it, I recall now reading somewhere that this nosectomy had to be done. I had not picked up on it diring my quick scan of the instruction sheet but now that I looked closer, you're spot on in your description. Anyway, yes it's a cut glue with a panel line rescribe but it seems straight forward so long as the replacement nose fits well. What bugs me more is the lack of any semblance of an engine for viewing through the wheel well. The Dragon 152H has a full engine but the C doesn't.

And for those interested, this is what I feel 211164 looked like - not 100% on the extent of the RLM83 (this represents my take on the MAXIMUM expanse of it) but its still a work in progress...

As for engines, I bought a handful of Engine Plugs from Parts-R-Parts about 2 months back - OK, they're designed to drop into a D-9 or D-11/-12/-13 and even then they need work if you're anal about things being right (reluctantly raises hand), but I've been chipping away at one of the D-11/-12/-13, to make it work for the Italeri Ta 152H-1 kit (the Trimaster-DML-Dragon moulds, sans engine) - removing the 190D firewall, correcting little missing things and adding pipes... I guess you could always get one, shave the supercharger off one side and replace it with plastic sheet and sprue on the otherside - it doesnt need to be a show-stopping piece of work either... Just busy enough to give the impression of 'something' in there!

Oh and as for my Dragon Ta 152C-1's, they're BOTH going to become Ta 152E's (One with the covers off and engine exposed) - Im going to use the DB603 noses to make a D-14 (in concert with a standard Dragon D-9) and a D-15 (with a Dragon D-12) - obviously bound for the 'planned versions' part of my Focke-wulf Langnasen project ... So the Dragon Ta 152C's are useful kits for the Fw 190D-series fan - so much cheaper too, than buying a 'specialist' D-14/-15 conversion, especially if you're going the Ta 152E route as well...

I thought I'd make use of the double post to just note tonights' acheivements - I prep'd some masks for the tail mottling and tried to find a suitable colour for the 'diagonal grey' section on the rear side fuselage. Ive also been working on a DIY Decal Set, that is almost complete; So far I have 4 of the 5 a/c done.

Fw 190D-13 836016 - "Black >>" (unit unknown) + a set of wooden flap decals
Ta 152H-0 150007 - "Black 13" Stab./JG 301 <-- have since learned this a/c did not exist!
Ta 152H-1 150168 - "Green 9" Stab./JG 301
Ta 152H-1 150174 - "Green 5" Stab./JG 301

and the one remaining project is:

Ta 152E-1 (unassigned) - Focke-wulf Erfurt + a set of wooden flap decals

Need to spend some time with the pictures i have of the last listed a/c, to get the Balkenkruez/Hakenkreuz sizes right and try ti pick out if any stencilling was used...

D-9 painting resumes tomorrow


Dan

And before someone jumps in and corrects me, I have learnt this week (when I went and searched the forum for an answer) that i) some sources 'confuse' the RLM 'Eighty-Green' numbers (hence why I call them 'Eighty-Green' ) and ii) that my conclusions about which is which (RLM82 being Dark Green and RLM83 being Bright Green), are WRONG... Thus, prior to this message, just reverse the green colour numbers

Interestingly the paints I am using, LIFECOLOR Acyrilcs, seem to reiterate my previous understanding - RLM82 being darker then RLM83. Now that I have sprayed them both on a model however, Im not convinced they provide the required 'tonal difference' both against each other and against the RLM75. BUT the more I look at both colour and B&W photo's of D-9's the more convinced I am becoming that several versions of each 80-series colour exists, like the 'mythological' RLM84/RLM99 colour (of which we seem to agree at least 3 variants exist - a grey (something like FS 36320 or 36375), a cream and a green variant - along with RLM76).

I must do some more research into these colours - any recommended sources and do others seem to feel there are 'variants' of the 80-series colours too? I do admit that I dont THINK I am a colour-Nazi, but I am pretty particular about finding the right 'tonal difference'


Dan

Minor update - RLM81 is almost done (I screwed the LAST 'blob' up, so have to go back with some RLM76 and see if I can sort it out); the 'repair grey' (or 'light RLM76') is on, tho the area on the wing, needs a bit of a touch up with RLM83 (Dark Green); Prop has been sprayed in a darkened RLM70 (I felt the LifeColor RLM was too light) and I have all but repaired (AGAIN) the small chip on the gun trough panel.

Next will be the remaining RLM83 (once I finish sorting this chip out), the 'medium grey' diagonal patch on each side and then FINALLY I can finish things off with the RLM75 Rumppfband overspray - Ill take some pics when the RLM83 is done

Ironically, I picked this a/c as a subject because I didnt forsee such a complex, multicoloured scheme - 76/75/83 with an extra colour for the Rumpfband overspray. I have now used two variants of RLM76, tow natural metal colours, RLM75, RLM81, RLM82, RLM83, the 'Light RLM76' which I call 'repair grey', RLM70 and have still to shoot the medium grey and overspray grey... There will be black/brown/grey for the exhaust. In 1/72, its a bit overwhelming for what was supposed to be my 'return to the hobby' project! hahahaha - I should have done that Orange Ta 152H-0 first!

The Ta 152 'filling-in drying-time) project is all but ready for paint also - since I need some more practice with the double action air brush, I am thinking of going a bit crazy with it... Still going to do a Stab./JG 301 a/c, with the Standard metal/76/75/83 camo (without the 'green boxes' beneath the Haken/Balkenkreuz - the whole concept of efficency and etc, makes those area's feel 'wrong' for a deployed a/c), but thinking about doing a D-13 'Yellow 10' style overspray... tis just an idea ATM, but I think the contrast between the Red/Yellow rumpfband and a maze of Greens and Greys (Im thinking RLM70, 75, 81, 82, 83 and then 'grey-green' undersurface colour) will look interesting.

Anyway, the undercoat on the gun trough panel repair is dry... Back to work!


Dan

Generally triumphant, though with some minor failures....

This what things look like now the majority of the masking has come off:



No surprises here - I like my 'darker' take on RLM70, as compared to what came out of the Lifecolor bottle; what Im NOT happy with is the Mottling on the Tail, but we will get to that and I will ask for advice...



Fixed the shipped corner at the 'gun' end of the gun trough panel, but now under some paint, I have noted a small chip at the FRONT now! Seems a bit of the extension to the front end chipped or whatever - more repairs!!!!! There is also a small smudge of RLM81 on the RLM75, just above the wing gun buldge; but thats not a big worry as it will vanish into the mix when I add exhaust weathering across there. But now for the tail...



Here is where I need advice - now as I understand/remember, to paint a thinner line, you drop the pressure a little; but in this case, this just caused things to spatter!!! - both the RLM81 and 'light grey' rumpfband. I also think my RLM81 was a bit on the thin side. What should I be doing? When you look at the fuselage sprayed-egdes, they're totally different!



This was MORTIFYING when I started to peel off the masking - that is not so much LIGHT you see reflecting, but the Tamiya 'Flat Aluminium' I used for the natural metal (The Grey and Green you see are just overspray) - it seems the tape (REALLY low tack stuff) has picked up a whole layer of pigment! Luckily, and in some miracle that I dont really understand, the actually surface is unmarred by this!!!



Looks all sparkly now, yes... But hopefully by the time I am finished, it will be all grimmy and dull - oh and the glossy-ness and etc of the fuel cell bays is the fact that they're wet! I used Tissue Paper to full up all the voids like this - as it dried, it became like cardboard and removal was only possible after wetting things down with more water... Still need to pic little bit if remaining paper out of there - last time I used tissue paper!!!!

I'm rather happy the painting is nearing an end - as previous, this is proving to be a FAR more complex paint project than I had thought; the thought of moving onto decals and getting back in to BUILDING stuff, is inspiring... There is a long list of things still to build/detail including the main gear, wiring and straps inside the fuel bays, wiring inside the flap recesses and when the masking comes off the engine and gun bays, the MG131's and wiring, radiator overflows, extra wiring, breathers, etc...

BUT YEAH - Advice welcome on how to get those mottles less splattery and smoother.


Dan

Pastels on such a small bird.....respray the 76 then.....read the PDF!

Cheers Wayne - parts of the tail have already been repainted 76; as for pastels, I cant say I have ever used them before, but if its as easy as that PDF makes them look, I must give that a go! What site did that come from BTW???

Dan

Zaggy said:

Cheers Wayne - parts of the tail have already been repainted 76; as for pastels, I cant say I have ever used them before, but if its as easy as that PDF makes them look, I must give that a go! What site did that come from BTW???

Dan

Click to expand...

Right here on this site after I posted it Dan!

You will find some others I put together to help anyone who wants some simple methods to work with....

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/weathering-questions-tutorials-guidebooks/waynes-modelling-methods-pdfs-20660.html

Sweet - cheers mate. I tried again with airbrush today and got much better results (played with pressure and consistency and masks, etc. So the mottling is there, the overspray is there and I got the first panel line wash on (which looks awesome) - just realised I missed ONE blob of mottle tho! Back to the RLM81 tomorrow and if all goes well, I'll get some Klear Kote on tomorrow.

Question about exhaust staining - what techniques and what 'timing' are ppl using for it? Im thinking black/brown pastels after a Matte coat, then another Matte coat an a hint of dark grey airbrushed or dry brushed after...


D

Coming along nicely!

Yeah, but this paint is taking forever to do! I wanted to do that one, last 'mottle blob' today, but was busy... Also noticed that general handling has exposed some of the Flat aluminium on the leading edge! What is it with this Tamiya Flat Aluminium? Paint doesnt seem to adhere were to it (pencil panel-lines chipped the paint back to the Aluminium colour - which looks kinda cool actually) and LAYERS come off if you put even low tack masking tape on it!?!?!

I have some Lifecolor and Model Master to use on the next project!

And despite the virtual imperceptability of the delination between the small patch of RLM82 (Bright Green) and RLM83 *Dark Green), I'm really happy with how things are looking - as I think I said yesterday, can't wait to get to decals and to finish the detailing! On the flip side, can't wait to do a simplier project (my Orange Ta 152H-0) and go a bit crazy with the 1:48 Ta 152C-1/R31 St./JG 301 scheme either!


D

Last Mottle BLOB has FINALLY been done, so I feel I can now say the camo is ON - what a mission that has proven! I also picked up a few colours of pigment today to experiment with for exhaust staining - if they're as easy to use as ppl say, I will stain up the exhaust a bit before the gloss-coat goes on. I'll take some pics tomorrow too now that the panel lines have been done and the first weathering steps have been taken.

In related news the 'while its drying' project Ta 152C-1 has also taken its first paint - I had this idea the other day to do MULTIPLE pre-shading passes, of fairly thin colours and see what sort of effect I can build up. Thus, after finishing up the BLOB of RLM81 on the D-9, the Ta 152C-1 received a preshading of RLM81, followed by a second pass of RLM81 + a few drops of black-green. I'm planning to continue with a shading of Black-green proper and a final shading of black. After the first shading passes dried, the rear-fuselage was also undercoated with Matte Yellow in prep for the Yellow and Red JG 301 Rumpfband.

Pics of the D-9 tomorrow


D

I've bought some pigment (Vallejo Pigments) for my Pastel sort of thing experiments - the hobbyshop guys said it was the same stuff as 'pastels', just finer and 'easier'... So what I am trying to do is exhaust stains (I figure its easier than starting with mottles) and been experimenting on an F-16 tail (that has taken the brunt of various test shots for the Fw 190D-9 painting), but the effect is not really what I expected. I can get a 'modest' stain, but nothing too heavy - and I can get either a 'cloud shaped' effected (by dabbing with an old, short soft brush) or 'heavily streaked', by brushing with the same, but not anything in the middle (like airflow shaped exhaust stains)...

Thus, any idea's? Does our resident master-modeller Wayne or others, have any suggestions?

Dan

Black chalk pastels have always worked well for me. Have not tried the stuff you're talking about. Maybe try airbrushing some flat black paint and then applying the stuff around the edges to get the effect you're looking for.