1/48 P-47D, Lt Frank Oiler 84th FS, 78th FG Group Build (1 Viewer)

• Apr 15, 2010

• Thread starter
• #21

fatboris

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Mar 4, 2010

Colorado

on;y my 2nd model and purely an accident. I painted the floor the wrong color at first so I took about 5:1 dirty thinner to paint with the right color and dabbed it across the top unitl it pooled, when it evaporated it looked like that. I did a wash with burnt umber watercolors but didn't use enough water so the pigmet caked up like mud. Then I dry-brushed testors aluminum (square bottle) and it looked scratched. it was a series of mistakes that turned out OK.

 

• Apr 16, 2010

• #22

Vic Balshaw

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Good effect however you arrived at it.

 

• Apr 16, 2010

• #23

bemay

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Dec 19, 2009

looks great!

 

• Apr 16, 2010

• #24

lesofprimus

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ihatemeatballs.com

Lookin good so far..

 

• Apr 16, 2010

• #25

Wayne Little

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Good work!

 

• Apr 16, 2010

• #26

Wurger

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Looking good.

 

• Apr 17, 2010

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• #27

fatboris

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Mar 4, 2010

Colorado

If I hand paint the stripes on the wings, being 1/48, how wide should the stripes be?

 

• Apr 17, 2010

• #28

Wurger

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As memo serves the invasion strips for fighters were wide on 18" each one. So divide 18/48 and you will find out that.

 

• Apr 17, 2010

• #29

Crimea_River

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Should be exactly 3/8 inch. 1/48 scale is 1/4 inch = 1 foot

 

• Apr 17, 2010

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• #30

fatboris

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Mar 4, 2010

Colorado

very good. Thanks guys.

 

• Apr 18, 2010

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• #31

fatboris

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Mar 4, 2010

Colorado

It's been a busy few days. Found a pic of the engine. I debated on making the cooling lines out of solder and thin copper wire but I didn't have what I wanted (skills-wise that is, I had the materials) so I opted to paint them on. The results are, well... but that's OK after a black wash and brown wash AND inside the cowl, I think I'll be in great shape. Fuselage and wings are glued up and seams were filled using Mr Surfacer 500, sanded, and smoothed with leveling thinner. Ready to start working on paint tomorrow.


Special thanks to Wayne Little and his KILLER step by steps in the modeling section. They've been invaluable. Also found 2 books on maodeling the P-47, one by Bert Kinzy and the other by Brett Green.

 

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• Apr 18, 2010

• #32

bemay

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Dec 19, 2009

great work fatboris

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• #33

Wurger

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I agree. Nicely done so far.

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• #34

Wayne Little

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Glad I could be of service Eric! doing a good job so far!

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• #35

vikingBerserker

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I agree, nice workon the engine.

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• Thread starter
• #36

fatboris

Airman

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Mar 4, 2010

Colorado

Thanks, I'm very please with how this kits coming together. I'm going to keep it simple this time but I think I'll have to build another very soon.

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• #37

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Benevolens Magister

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Nice work so far, and the engine should look fine when in place. BTW, the copper 'lines' are the ignition harness, and the black tubes the push rods; the engine was air-cooled.
One point if it's not too late - the ammunition feed chutes to the guns should be dull bare metal.

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• Thread starter
• #38

fatboris

Airman

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Mar 4, 2010

Colorado

I appreciate the encouragement, guys.

Great info, Terry, nothings glued in yet so I can make that change.Do you happen to know if they were aluminum or steel? I'm guessing mix some aluminum and grey testors, equal amounts, should get me what I'm looking for, no?

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• #39

javlin

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Eric looking good so far but do let me know if you have issues with the front cowl and engine assembly.I am currently working on three builds of 47's and the front cowl is just not quite as tight as I would suspect from Tamy.I sanded here and there with only marginal success.Cheers Kevin

 

• Apr 18, 2010

• #40

Airframes

Benevolens Magister

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Eric, far as I know the chutes were alloy, or maybe 'tin plate'. A spot of matt white mixed with silver should give the right look. When dry, give them a light dusting by dry brush with a very small, thin, touch of gold. This gives the worn look often seen on these parts.