1:570 HMS King George V - Unofficial GB.

[Marcel]

You see, aircraft facilities removed. Then they started using the 2 tone scheme. My model is lije she was during the Bismarck episode at which time she had a more complex camo. I didn't like that one and think she looks more pretty in the lighter tones of the later scheme. Didn't realise she didn't have the aircraft anymore at that time.

Oh, another question. Those portholes bother me. You suggested to paint them slightly darker and apply a shiny transparant layer on top. As the portholes are just a fraction of a millimeter wide, I found it impossible to paint them. Possibly my la k of skill and experiance. So how do you do that?

 

[Wurger]

Some info I found via the net ...

"KGV wore at least five camouflage schemes.

There is a KGV class book in publication now, entitled "King George V Class Battleships" by Roger Chesneau (published by Chatham in 2004 - ISBN 1 86176 211 9). Although not as detailed or technical as the superb Raven Roberts book, it is nevertheless a useful book for modelers and is rather inexpensive.

The first two schemes worn by KGV (Chesneau, pg 51):
1) KGV was photographed at Rosyth in October 1940 about to join the fleet in an unofficial, dramatic yet different disruptive scheme entirely composed of Admiralty Dark Gray over Admiralty Light Gray.
2) KGV wore a very sedate, medium gray overall during the Bismarck fight in 1941

The third scheme (Chesneau, pg 51):
3) KGV wore Admiralty Intermediate Disruptive from about June 1942 through 1943. There may be some disagreement on the colors that composed Admiralty Intermediate Disruptive. Vlad reports that the colors are AP507A, B5, B6 and AP507C based upon Roberts' book. Chesneau identifies the colors as AP507C, MS2, B5 and MS1. You might want to check with John at White Ensign Models to be sure. Be advised that the Admiralty Intermediate Disruptive scheme is not historically correct for the Tamiya 1/350 scale KGV kit. The Tamiya KGV kit depicts KGV as she appeared after the major 1944-45 refit. In 1944-1945, KGV and her surviving sisters received a major refit that included the removal of the midships catapult and moved the boats to a new structure where the catapult once lay. They also received an increased AA fit. As I said, the Tamiya kit depicts KGV after the refit and after she wore Admiralty Intermediate Disruptive.

If you really like any one of the first three schemes, particularly the the dramatic Admiralty Intermediate Disruptive Scheme KGV wore in 1942-1943 as many do, you would be more historically accurate to use the Tamiya Prince of Wales kit with the catapult and Walrus amphibian then paint it as KGV.

The fourth and fifth schemes - the most historically accurate for the Tamiya 1/350 KGV kit (Chesneau, pg 51-52):
4) a great wartime camouflage choice for the Tamiya KGV kit is "Admiralty Standard Scheme Type B" better known as British Pacific Fleet Scheme, possibly gray G45 overall with a B20 medium blue rectangular hull panel that covered the armor belt above the boot topping and extended a bit fore and aft of the belt.
5) another good choice for the KGV kit is the scheme KGV received just before the end of the war and continued to wear until the end of her service life: hull painted in standard AP507B medium gray with AP507C light gray upperworks (Chesneau pg 52)."



As far as the painting of the portholes is concerned... When the hull is painted , take a piece of a thin brass wire or a needle with a dull ending ( the diameter both of the wire and needle shold be about the porthole diameter ) . Then drown the wire/needle ending in a paint but a little bit only. Just to take a small drop of the colour at the ending and spill onto a porthole . Please make a test on a piece of white cardboard firstly. You will see how small dots you may get. Just a matter of patience. When all these round windows are painted , use the same way for applying the gloss clear coat. Or you can use a gloss colour. The effect should be the same.

 

[Marcel]

Okay, thanks Wojtek.

Just tried the porthole idea for an hour or so, but it doesn't seem to work for me. First of all it is hard to find a needle of the right size and second it's hard to make equal dots, making the portholes look clumsy and childish. I'll repair the damage done and leave it. I guess it is beyond my skills. Maybe i'll try again when I am as good as you guys

 

[Wurger]

OK. No problemo. Could you post a quite closeup pic of these porthole/s?

 

[fubar57]

For little cockpit knobs and dials I use a push pin, the point is a little bigger and it's easier to hold....

Geo

 

[Marcel]

OK. No problemo. Could you post a quite closeup pic of these porthole/s?

Sure, enhanced the contrast a bit so you can see them:

As you can see, they're also not very tidy on the model itself, not all in a straight line, which makes matters worse.

 

[Crimea_River]

For portholes, suggest one of these. I've used the 0.5mm diameter on fine details in cockpits. I rarely get paint to stick to a pin properly and prefer a pice of stretched sprue cut along the length at the right diameter.

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Andy - I'll have to look out for those pens. I had a similar one, rather like 'pre-loaded' Rotaring draughting pen, some years ago, but haven't found any since.

 

[Wurger]

THX Marcel. Looking at these pics I would say a thin needle or a toothpick should be fine for applying some of thin paint into these small holes. Just into them only but not with painting all around. However these portholes aren't in a straight line so the finall effect can't be the one you want. Therefore I would let them be as they are.

 

[fubar57]

For portholes, suggest one of these. I've used the 0.5mm diameter on fine details in cockpits. I rarely get paint to stick to a pin properly and prefer a pice of stretched sprue cut along the length at the right diameter.

View attachment 287961

I'll have to look for those. I notice they a sold a Wallyworld. If you have the red or yellow, Andy, how are they for coverage?

Geo

 

[Marcel]

THX Marcel. Looking at these pics I would say a thin needle or a toothpick should be fine for applying some of thin paint into these small holes. Just into them only but not with painting all around. However these portholes aren't in a straight line so the finall effect can't be the one you want. Therefore I would let them be as they are.

Thanks Wojtek,

I think one of the reasons that it looked childish was indeed because they are not level. I'll leave them.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Crimea_River]

I've only used red and black Geo. The black covers well, the red not so much. Also, they need to be allowed to fully dry over several hours before applying a clear coat, and they may react with non-acrylic top coats.

 

[Wayne Little]

Like those pens Andy....

I also used to use those Rotaring drafting pens Terry for tech drawing stuff many moons ago .....showing our age there mate!

 

[Marcel]

Preassembled the superstructure. It's not glued on, yet, but I wanted to see what it would look like. Pretty neat for an amateur, eh?

 

[Wurger]

Looking good. But the "upside" pic could have been watching properly by Wayne only.

 

[Gnomey]

Good work so far Marcel!

 

[Catch22]

Cool Marcel, my dad's just finishing up a 1:350 version of this ship!

 

[Crimea_River]

That's looking pretty good.

 

[parsifal]

I feel guilty...I was one of the stirrers who whinged about there not being a ship build option.....here, more than a year later I haven't lifted a finger.......hopefully I can turn that around sooner rather than later....I just haven't had time to do anything lately.