Airfix 1:72 scale Blohm Voss BV-141

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The Revell kit is indeed MUCH better, although my Revell glasswork is also very bad and will be replaced with Falcon vac form items.

Should you go with the Airfix kit though, I have a Falcon set for that too if you want it.
 
I agree too - the Airfix kit is around 40 years old, with everything that means, plus the ageing of the moulds.
Regarding your canopy moulding for the B&V, it is rather a difficult shape to achieve by the method I described, compared to the Mossie, which was also much larger, in 1/32nd scale, and therefore easier. Using a plaster male mould can work on some 'solid' subjects, but is not ideal for clear moulding, due to achieving desired internal dimensions and smoothness of surface. A polished resin male would be better, but again, obtaining the dimensions would have to be spot on first time, whereas balsa can be sanded back to reduce overall size if needed.
The 'melted' plastic certainly has potential, but controlling the evacuation of air bubbles, or worse, bubbles caused by chemical reaction, may take some overcoming.
For the Grieff, I would go with the Falcon vac-form canopy - carving or producing an accurate male mould for a home-made canopy will be rather difficult.
 
I actually already have the Airfix kit but will keep my eyes peeled for the Revell kit. The last few days of shall we say hiding in the basement type weather has given me some time to get back to the kit. Cockpit...or Gondolla is done, just need to fab up some nose guns and scribe the panel lines and deal with the rivet scenario. Wings and fuselage are all done. Then it's up to glazing which I've been experimenting with.









Airframes, I have had a go at your method and it's definitely the way to go, haven't quite perfected it yet but working on it....definite learning curve to it !
 
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That's really looking the biz! Glad to know the moulding is working - it takes a bit of practice, but gives good results normally. I've been doing it for well over 45 years, and still need a few attempts to get a perfect moulding !
 
First attempts at making my own glazing. On the left, the kit stuff, on the right my first attempts at Airframes instructions. Needs some fine tuning but I'm going to keep at it. All four pieces have been dipped in Future BTW. The casting of liquid plastic using MEK was an epic failure ! Works good for repairing vintage automotive signal light lenses but as for 1/72 scale models....NOT !!
The kit glass after Future is, well lets say an improvement but given the detail I have put into it I would like something thinner and transparent so I keep at it with the vacu-forming deal until I get what I'm looking for.
 
Good stuff, and you'll get it in the end. I'm happy if get a usable result after around three attempts per item - sometimes it works first time.
By the look of the singe mark, you may be holding the clear sheet too close to the heat source. I find it best over an open gas hob, but I'm stuck with the grill on an electric cooker. Over the hob, about four to six inches above the flame is best, keeping the female mould and clear sheet moving in a circular motion, until it starts to go 'floppy'. At that point, you need to be quick to plunge the male mould through the female, as the plastic starts to cool enough, even in transit to the mould, to allow it to start to harden again, causing a mis- mould.
 
Well it's been a while. Winter has arrived on the fabulous Wet Coast so I'll be back to hiding the basement. I think I have got a handle on the vacu forming deal. I built a device I can hook up to my vacuum cleaner and I'm pretty pleased with the results so far. Hopefully I can get this wrapped up soon and start on another kit.









 
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