Consolidated B-24D LIBERATOR; 1/48 Revell

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Wojtek, Terry, Dr.Huge, Geo, Kirby, Glenn and Andy ... I am grateful that you like it and that you accompany me with what we have achieved so far.

The following photos, more than showing the progress with the machine gun mounts and the way I did it ... is to show you my process and the doubt I have about taking the best advice that you recommend me, according to your personal experiences.

At the end of each machine gun that touches the bubble inside, I put a drop of Micro Kristal Klear to adhere it to the inner wall.
I used some Tak to set each machine gun in position ...



One day later I removed the Tak


(Sorry for the resolution, focus and sharpness of the photos)

Is this where my doubt arose ... ??
If at the moment of embedding each gun (cannon) from outside in your machine gun, the machine gun is detached and let loose inside? It would be very difficult to repair it if the bubble is already adhered and painted in its final colors .. !! Release the bubble to do the repair?
So I made the attempt to mount the guns, ...



... but, in the case of the cannon 2, when doing a bit of pressure (very carefully) I felt and I could see that the machine gun was moving and it came off some of the wall .. !!
I have the opportunity to make light pressure from the enterior, while I incrusted each barrel because I did not stick the bubble, ... but when it is already attached to the fuselage ??

These are my doubts:

1) the bubble is previously submerged in Future. I understand that if I apply cyanoacrylate I will not have as a result of fog or opaque transparent plastic. It is true?
2) Reinforcing the inner junction with Cyano, can it be an option?
3) Reinforce that inner union with epoxy glue?
4) Reinforcing it with putty? (I have Green Putty from Squadron Products; Tamiya Polyester Putty)
5) Make a mixture of talc or sodium bicarbonate with cyanoacrylate?

These are the options that come to mind and I do not know if they work!

The best thing is to be waiting for all the suggestions, recommendations, photos, links, experiences and advice that several of you can share, as well as the comments between you experienced and knowledgeable friends.



Today is a day of rest in Mexico (celebration of the anniversary of the Mexican Political Constitution) and we have visits to eat at home.
Thank you for your visit and support. Have an excellent week.

regards
Luis Carlos

P.D .: BTW I think that yesterday we lived the best match of Super Bowl in history !!, those who could see it, I hope you have enjoyed it
 
If I were you I would paint the nose glass firstly. Of course these holes for the MGs should be blinded with pieces of masking tape stuck inside, for instance. Having that done I would attach these MGs , each with a small drop of a PVA glue. The PVA adhesive should give a clear and quite elastic joint enough to hold these MGs at the locations when dry. Easy way IMHO instead of racking head like a horse pulling empty wagon upslope.
 
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I had the same issue with a He111 Luis. If you have doubts about the Kristal Klear holding and your bubble has been coated with Future, you can reinforce the guns with a small dab of CA or even Tamiya Extra Thin if you take necessary precautions.

Presuming you have a protective coat of Future, I would then place some temporary masking as an extra precaution over clear areas inside the bubble (the outside areas are already masked) and then carefully add a spot of CA with a toothpick or similar or a small run of Tamiya Extra Thin into the hole containing the gun (you may do this from either the inside or the outside depending which is most clear of Kristal Klear) and allow it to wick in. Wait until the glue is cured before removing the temporary masking.

I prefer to use the combination of glue and Kristal Klear because if your gun receives a knock the glue may snap but the Kristal Klear has some give so hopefully will keep the gun in place rather than falling back inside before you can repair it.

Hope you're having a good holiday and food and cerveza!
 
... ... Easy way IMHO instead of racking head like a horse pulling empty wagon upslope.

Thank you W, I did not understand that last sentence.
It makes me the simple option, but I think it would be the last.
I have the inconvenience of that big gap in the bottom between the bubble and the structure of the plane and following the suggestion of Terry, I intend to make the union and attend the best that gap, to paint and be the best possible all that piece together.
Your advice, sure will be my best choice in another model with a fit between parts without problems of assembly.

Dziękuję bardzo przyjaciela zawsze szybkie i ciekawe swoje odpowiedzi.
Saludos =D>
 
I had the same issue with a He111 Luis. ...

Thank you very much for your advice Kirby; In fact, all the transparent piece was submerged in Future, and I think that is the best thing to do, due to that annoying gap.
It is a good idea to mask these areas of crystals from the inside while the MKK and the glue dry.
I think I'll use that combination instead of MKK and cyano.
To do it right, I'm going to remove the machine guns again, clean the inside glass, mask the windows with a liquid mask (I think it will be easier and cleaner to remove it) ... I think it will be.

I will keep an eye on your comments and thank you very much for your time, comments and support.

Saludos cordiales
 
I would go with CA after applying Future. I would not mask as Kirby suggested as I had a bad experience with that once where the CA wicked under the mask and made a mess. That's a risk if you use the THIN CA. If you use a THICK CA that doesn't run, you may be better off if you mask.
 
Very good point Andy.
I came to think about that incident that you share, also with the Tamiya Extra Thin.

What do you think the best result to accompany the MKK, the CA or Tamiya (both medium density) ...?

I think that anyway I mask carefully those interior windows with liquid mask and with a lot of patience and good pulse apply the adhesives with a toothpick or a fine-tipped brush.

I keep alert to your comments, thank you very much.

Gracias amigo
 
What do you think the best result to accompany the MKK, the CA or Tamiya (both medium density) ...?

I have used both with success Luis. Andy is correct that there is a risk with wicking to masking tape and you need to be careful of this. I tend not to apply the tape very close to where I am working (it's just there as an extra precaution against fumes or an inadvertant touch by the operator!) and use very small amounts of glue on the tip of a toothpick or the Tamiya Extra Thin fine brush (well drained of glue) so that I can work precisely and not let the glue run where it shouldn't! The key is to use small amounts of glue and repeated applications if necessary rather than too much and make a mess because of running or wicking.

My preference is usually to use a small spot of medium CA as long as you can easily access your target location with your toothpick without making a mistake or a mess. It looks from your photos as though this is the case. Otherwise I might use TET if access is tricky and I need to guide the brush tip to the location and let it wick in. Just be mindful with TET of any panel lines, joins, tape, etc that might allow wicking to where you don't want it.

Good luck!
 
"... Otherwise I might use TET if access is tricky and I need to guide the brush tip to the location and let it wick in. Just be mindful with TET of any panel lines, joins, tape, etc that might allow wicking to where you don't want it. ..."

Thanks Kirby for the recommendation.
What do the initials TEF mean?

Good work AND good information about this type of tricky situation. Consider myself better educated after reading!

What a friendly John, and how you feel about the quality and quantity of valuable information that has been collected !! ... wow, wow !!

Saludos
 
Everything seems to indicate that I begin to enter a rugged and dangerous terrain ...

In my dreams I imagined options to be able to multiply my hands and after some attempts and well awake, ... it seems that I can carry out what I have tried.

Be able to grasp to the inner wall, the machine gun ...



Ready the inner masking of the bubble, as well as the rear turret ...



As you can see, I used a liquid mask for those small, curved areas ... to see how they are left (I'm ready to remove the excess paint with a toothpick and / or touch up with a fine brush)

See you soon ...!
 
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