**** DONE: 1/48 BF109F-2 "Hermännchen" - Winter War / Eastern Front WWII
- Thread starter Crimea_River
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very nice Andy
Agredd, real nice Andy.
- Thread starter
- #65
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks guys. A minor set back in that I had to remove the engine and bulkhead again. Those of you who have the Zvezda 109F kits will need to watch out for the instructions. See the insert below. The machine gun shelf (arrow) is sticking above the ledge on the fuselage side but needs to go below. The way I installed it is forced the sidewalls out and I only discovered this after trying to install the cowl. You can see the curvature in the below pic.
I was able to remove everything OK as the glue had not yet hardened. However, I had not yet realized at this stage that the problem was as described above but that, rather, the bulkhead was too wide. So I set about removing a bit of material from the bulkhead and, to ensure that the cowl fit properly, I first glued the cowl to the fuselage so I could dry fit everything. It was then that I discovered that the whole thing needed to be installed lower.
Nothing catastrophic here as it's an easy fix but I'll post more on this later.
I was able to remove everything OK as the glue had not yet hardened. However, I had not yet realized at this stage that the problem was as described above but that, rather, the bulkhead was too wide. So I set about removing a bit of material from the bulkhead and, to ensure that the cowl fit properly, I first glued the cowl to the fuselage so I could dry fit everything. It was then that I discovered that the whole thing needed to be installed lower.
Nothing catastrophic here as it's an easy fix but I'll post more on this later.
chris brown
Senior Airman
Thanks for the heads up. Overall this seems like a pretty sweet kit and you are doing a great job on it. Keep it up.
- Thread starter
- #67
Crimea_River
Marshal
It is a sweet kit Chris but this part of the build bit me.
Anyway, as stated above, I've now taken off the engine and installed the cowl that's just ahead of the windscreen so I can ensure a positive fit and adjust as necessary.
With the engine off, I continued to detail the various hoses and stuff. In the below pic, you can see that I installed the annular oil tank and added some bits to the coolant header tank. On top of the tank is a scratch built filler cap. At the forward end, you can see a hose made of solder leading out to a scratch built vapour trap and another solder hose leading out from under that to the underside of the engine. At the back of the coolant tank there is another hose coming out of the bottom of the tank and down between the exhaust stubs. There's also a small lead wire hose running from the top of the tank over to the tank on the other side.
The guns are now attached and the bits described above have been painted. Note also that I added some thin plastic card to the edge of the firewall where I removed some material that I should not have.
The oil cooler and its cowl are a thing of beauty, made so that it can be displayed open. Mine will be closed though
Wing radiators in place and painted. These are also nicely detailed with realistic intake and outlet ducts.
Another day's work done.
Anyway, as stated above, I've now taken off the engine and installed the cowl that's just ahead of the windscreen so I can ensure a positive fit and adjust as necessary.
With the engine off, I continued to detail the various hoses and stuff. In the below pic, you can see that I installed the annular oil tank and added some bits to the coolant header tank. On top of the tank is a scratch built filler cap. At the forward end, you can see a hose made of solder leading out to a scratch built vapour trap and another solder hose leading out from under that to the underside of the engine. At the back of the coolant tank there is another hose coming out of the bottom of the tank and down between the exhaust stubs. There's also a small lead wire hose running from the top of the tank over to the tank on the other side.
The guns are now attached and the bits described above have been painted. Note also that I added some thin plastic card to the edge of the firewall where I removed some material that I should not have.
The oil cooler and its cowl are a thing of beauty, made so that it can be displayed open. Mine will be closed though
Wing radiators in place and painted. These are also nicely detailed with realistic intake and outlet ducts.
Another day's work done.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Glad you sorted that little hick-up Andy and that is one lovely engine you have duplicated.
NICE!
I have a portion of an F-2 built will remember to check that fit issue you had Andy when I resume mine down the track...
I have a portion of an F-2 built will remember to check that fit issue you had Andy when I resume mine down the track...
mikewint
Captain
Really nice work but with that detail IMHO open it up
- Thread starter
- #72
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks Mike. Definitely will be open cowl on left side, closed on right. No detailing on the right side going on.
Totalize
Tech Sergeant
Andy,
Thanks for the tips on the build of this kit. I have the F-2 and F-4 from Zvesda so its nice to see you helpful advice here. Will definitely refer to this build when I get around to building them.
Awesome work on the engine too!
Dave.
Thanks for the tips on the build of this kit. I have the F-2 and F-4 from Zvesda so its nice to see you helpful advice here. Will definitely refer to this build when I get around to building them.
Awesome work on the engine too!
Dave.
- Thread starter
- #74
Crimea_River
Marshal
Tonight I finished detailing the engine and I have more tips for those who will embark on this build. First, the final bits have been added to the engine. These are seen before painting as bare lead wire going from the hydraulic tank on the engine bearer to the firewall and around the guns, a ring and strut at the supercharger intake, and the engine lift eye in front of the bearer.
Now, the way this kit is put together, you are intended to have a choice of either closing all the cowls, in which case you don't install the engine, or open ALL the cowls with the engine installed. In my case, I plan on having just the left side cowl open. The right side and oil cooler being closed. If you do this, there's lots of trimming and fitting to be done. Plenty of dry fitting is a MUST on this one and be patient as the parts are accurately made and WILL fit.
I chose first to install the lower cowl. For it to fit properly, it was necessary to remove a chunk of the valve covers. I also had to remove some of the material at the front of the annular oil tank for the forward cowl ring to go far enough back.
With that done, I lined up the lower cowl and glued it in. I recommend that this all be done at the same time as the engine complete with firewall is installed so that the whole assembly can be moved and aligned. There's still a bit of a ridge on the bottom that will easily be sanded out.
With the bottom cowl on, I assembled the starboard engine cowl to the opening. This took a lot of fitting. The cowl is thick and will foul on the engine bearer struts, the synchronizing gear covers and other stuff. The cowl needs to be thinned a lot in these areas and I also lopped off the above protruding parts on the engine to make it work. The picture below shows just the rear seam glued. Once that is set, the forward part will be glued. The gap will close - I tried already. It will just take a bit of clamping.
That's a major bit of assembly near done. The rest should go quickly. Thanks for looking in.
Now, the way this kit is put together, you are intended to have a choice of either closing all the cowls, in which case you don't install the engine, or open ALL the cowls with the engine installed. In my case, I plan on having just the left side cowl open. The right side and oil cooler being closed. If you do this, there's lots of trimming and fitting to be done. Plenty of dry fitting is a MUST on this one and be patient as the parts are accurately made and WILL fit.
I chose first to install the lower cowl. For it to fit properly, it was necessary to remove a chunk of the valve covers. I also had to remove some of the material at the front of the annular oil tank for the forward cowl ring to go far enough back.
With that done, I lined up the lower cowl and glued it in. I recommend that this all be done at the same time as the engine complete with firewall is installed so that the whole assembly can be moved and aligned. There's still a bit of a ridge on the bottom that will easily be sanded out.
With the bottom cowl on, I assembled the starboard engine cowl to the opening. This took a lot of fitting. The cowl is thick and will foul on the engine bearer struts, the synchronizing gear covers and other stuff. The cowl needs to be thinned a lot in these areas and I also lopped off the above protruding parts on the engine to make it work. The picture below shows just the rear seam glued. Once that is set, the forward part will be glued. The gap will close - I tried already. It will just take a bit of clamping.
That's a major bit of assembly near done. The rest should go quickly. Thanks for looking in.
fubar57
General
Great detailing and tips Andy. Just a heads ups if you are going to order more of that wire from UMM-USA. The USPS has increased their shipping rates. John Vojtech, of UMM-USA sent me an email saying the increase was "dramatic". It cost me an extra 2.95$US to ship 4 spools, the cheapest way.
Geo
Geo
Very Nice Andy!
- Thread starter
- #77
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks guys and thanks for the heads up Geo. I have lots of wire for now but ran out of 0.3mm which seems to be one I go to a lot. Still would like to find a local source for this stuff.
mikewint
Captain
Andy, very impressive work on that engine. Looks like it is ready to run
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
Smashing work old bean!
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