**** DONE: 1/72 kawanishi E15K1 Shiun "Norm" – Carrier Aircraft GB

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Sergio, I can't see your attchment in #19 as well. You might have attched them in a wrong way.
 
problem solved, not the server because the link was broken, the number of assignment of the photos I had corresponded with the server.
 
Neat??, fast?? what?? hahahahahaha, thanks guys. now more progress

once you leave the paint dry for 24 hours, and can be handled without problems that will not leave marks or chips or anything we proceed to put the salt on the lines of the panels that we like to feel like and see what they would have more wear, you need not give any but the metal product because this type of paint does not change or lose color to be masked with nothing

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salt is iodized salt used common kitchen, salt and soy salt, three equal parts, it wets the surface and leave the salt on the surface, some grains are oriented to achieve the desired effect and allowed to dry, so the grain adiere way to the surface of the plane being firm. The use salt soy is for a reason adsorbed nitrate can be formed by salt as this can cause damage to the aircraft of very poor solution.

After complete drying 25 minutes at room these days (35 º C in the shadow), I give a pass with the airbrush with nothing more than air, so see if you jump much grain or otherwise are already well bonded to low pressure nozzle and paint well dissolved 0'2mm give last panel to panel, focusing more in some places than others so I get this result.

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One advantage of these paints is that they only react with acetone or derivatives thereof, which makes it an optimal surface for any type of paint used without losing quality metallized, so that alclad II does not accept this treatment losing the look of metal.
I leave just enough time to dry the paint will not be marked and salt removal
 
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Jan, vic, wayne, andy, charles and bruce, thanks you very much guys, is something we already know that these Japanese planes I like so much that I care little they always give me good result, the technique of chipping salt is good, I like more than the technique of sponge that would be more for vehicles but on board aircraft of good paint and / or little wear is also applicable.

Bruce is very easy to make the important thing is a little water and salt, soy, some coherence to place the chips (I do not I have asked my 2 year old daughter), and as for all this world patience, practice on a piece of plastic fences not really used to freak out, you get many effects that are very difficult to do by hand.
 
Now the plane, I'm looking for ways to put a trolley like acara out of the water, but to place it in my display case outside the GB, I'm looking for him the plans for the car even if it's in this picture than what is notice is not right for the plane as it Apolla on the longitude of the quila leaving the rest of the base of the float in the air (can cause structural damage to the bottom of the keel).

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given the bottom paint very different than painting, painting better stand the bad weather, I painted the cover of the engine, propeller and spinner, before joining the whole remove the salt, not that it is the most suitable but I like how is the final result:

with a stiff bristled thick pincell give it to remove the piece of salt that is not very strong, after a widely used sandpaper of 1200 I give in the direction of air, soft and not get too much paint to mark even the plastic, take out the remaining salt, the salt dragged across the surface and be abrasive stone salt plus more paint being sanded paint surface has not gone to polish something elpaso salt from the sand, leaving a very poor paint appearance (care if the paneling is positive), and this aspect takes:

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i am just making the canvas of the booth
 
Very nice results!
I am a bit confused as to what kind of salt is used, I tried this once with table salt and it disolved with the paint. Is "soy salt", "sea salt"?
 

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