Looks real good and authentic Dan!
Anyway, here you go, in case I don't get a chance until too late tomorrow - getting act together ready to go to Czech land!
The attached sketches represent the inboard section of the wing, i.e., the centre section, in this case the port side, as per your pics. Both are of the same area.
Sketch 1
The hole and the rectangular opening are what's already there on the kit parts. If you can use these without anything showing in the wheel bays, great. If it does show, but you can minimize any protrusion and view, then still use these holes. The parts fitted can be painted to 'disappear'!
If you can't use them, then cut new holes, similar, where they don't show, which should be more or less the same size if possible. If there are not corresponding holes in the outboard, main wing section, then make some!
OK, here we go;
1) 'A' Is a pin, which you can make from any suitable length of wire, steel, paper clip or whathave you. If unable to do this, then use a piece of scrap, or stretched sprue, of a suitable size. Insert into the hole indicated, just enough to give a good fit, without interfering with anything in the wheel bay. If there is room, insert as far as possibel. Glue in place. When it has set, reinforce the joint with a small bead, or a couple of spots, of 'superglue'.
2) B Is a short 'spar', which you can make from plastic card, by gluing pieces together to form the required thickness. Make this the size to fit the rectangular hole snugly, and again, the best depth you can achieve without interfering with the wheel bay. Both this spar and the pin will eventually fit into corresponding holes on the outer wing section, so make them long enough to do this, without being too long. Again, glue then re-inforce with superglue, once you are sarisfied with the fit and the 'reach' into the other wing section.
If you don't have enough plastic card, use some of the aluminium sheet, and fold a box section if possible. Three sides will do, the open side on the bottom. If it's not possible to fold to this pattern, then just fold over and over again, until the required thickness is achieved. This will take the most strain, so if you can get the correct angle to more or less match the outer wing dihedral, great.
3) C Is a wedge, which can be two pieces of plastic car glued together, cut to fit inside the moulded lips of the wing sections. This is to take the weight/strain at the trailing edge. Lightly glue into place, but don't use superglue this time, as you may need to move it, or trim it, later.It will only be acting as a support, and the weight of the wing should trap it, keeping it in position.
Sketch 2.
4) D is a lip of plastic card, glued around the inner lip of the wing centre section. This will be taking the strain and suopporting the actual joint. Together with those pieces of card you've already glued to the bottom lip of the outer wing, and in conjunction with the above pin, spar and wedge, this should give a good, solid joint. However, when set, I wouldn't be tempted to pick up the model by the outer wing! If you don't have enough card, use a strip of the aluminium sheet, and superglue in place.
When you've glued all the pieces onto the centre section, and they have set, then you can test fit the outer wing. Be prepared for perhaps a lot of trial and error, and probably some adjusting. Given that there is no major interference from the spar etc, any adjusting should be possible by trimming, or packing, the holes made in the outer wing. There is a slim possibility that the spar, and possibly the wedge, might need trimming on their bottom edges, hence the reason for initially gluing lightly.
All this might take time, but it should work, as I've done a similar thing quite a few times.
Once you're happy with the joint,then it can be glued.
As for the painting, although the wings were not folded, the joint would probably, I think, see some erosion of paintwork, caused by the coral dust in the slipstream, and feet etc. So, I wouldn't be too concerned trying to get a perfectly painted finish in this area. However, check that the underside joint was or wasn't sealed with white tape, as were some panel joints, as evidenced in photos of the time.
I hope this all makes sense mate!
I'll check in late tomorrow afternoon, my time, to see if you have any questions - you can e-mail me direct if it's urgent, as I'll be checking messages anyway.