**** DONE: GB36 - 1/48th Bf109G-6/R6 - Axis Manufactured aircraft of WWII

[T Bolt]

Your paint work looks great Terry
I've been using model master enamels ever since they came out and airbrushing them for 20 years and have never had a complaint about them. For thinning them I start out with 1/3 thinner and 2/3 paint which is usually right for a fresh bottle and increasing the thinner from there for older bottles which have thickened up some.

 

[Gnomey]

Great work so far Terry!

 

[Airframes]

Thanks all.

Wojtek, the decals were clear coated with gloss varnish, but they're around 38 or 39 years old, and have been bent a bit at some time also.
The remaining two crosses might have worked, but I didn't want to risk it, so the grey areas have been painted.

Andy and Glenn, it is rather puzzling the the paint has dried semi-gloss, as the other MM paints I've use gave a nice matt finish. It seems to have settled down a bit now though, and is not quite as glossy. But either way, the finish was smooth and even, if still a touch tacky after around 12 hours, so no problem.

I've now painted the grey areas of the fuselage crosses, and slightly altered the upper / lower demarcation on the fuselage again, below the cockpit.
The masks have been removed from the crosses, winkel and tail band, and some panel line washes have been applied around the cowling joints, simulating the look in the photos of the real aircraft.The control surfaces have also had a thin wash, and, once the paint has hardened for another 12 or more hours, some further light panel line work, and the first stages of weathering and staining, will be done.
Then it's a gloss coat or two, followed by the decals when the varnish is fully dry.

PIC 1. The masking for the fuselage crosses in the process of being applied. I anticipate some re-touching of the grey, once the decals for the white outline crosses have been added.
PICS 2 and 3. What the model looks like so far, with the masks removed, and the additions / corrections mentioned above.

Back sometime tomorrow - if I don't freeze my nuts off first (see 'What Annoyed you Today' thread ) !!

 

[Wurger]

Oh.. 38 or 39 years old ? .. so no wonder. These could get cracking... even if were varnished. The painted ones look nice. Keep working.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks my friend. I just hope I can position the white outline cross decals accurately, otherwise I'll have a lot of re-touching to do !

 

[Crimea_River]

Looking very good. I'm sure you'll be able to get those crosses centered.

 

[Wurger]

Thanks my friend. I just hope I can position the white outline cross decals accurately, otherwise I'll have a lot of re-touching to do !

The another way you may use is to cut the white strips using a white decal sheet and make the white outline for the crosses. But painting is a good idea too.

 

[turbo]

Coming along nicely Terry

 

[at6]

I like it. You're doing very well.

 

[Wayne Little]

Doin' great there Terry.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks all.
I should get the clear coats done later today, and then leave it for at least 12 hours before starting on the decals.

 

[JKim]

Looking good Terry! I find that thinner paint mixtures help with avoiding the splatter effect on mottles.

 

[T Bolt]

Terry, For some reason all the Model Master RLM colors are semi-gloss wile the most others (RAF, USAAF, USSR, Italy, Japan, ect.) are flat. I like it as it makes for a smaller number of coats of Future to get a decent gloss for decals

 

[Crimea_River]

Possibly trying to replicate actual German paints but Terry's paints are still glossier than I remember the MM RLM colours to be.

 

[T Bolt]

Maybe the thinner? I only use MM/Testors Airbrush thinner ever since I had some paint curdle on me when I used an off brand back when I first started using an airbrush

 

[Airframes]

Thanks John. The paint was actually thinned more than usual for the mottle, and there were very few 'splatter' marks fortunately, the ones seen in the photos being my fault, due to my stiff hands trying to operate the trigger at a daft angle. They have since been removed with a paint brush just dampened slightly with thinners.

Thanks for the info regarding the RLM colours Glenn. They have actually settled down a lot since the first pics were taken (probably 5 minutes or so after painting), and now look more semi-matt, and still beautifully smooth. Those other MM paints I've used (non RLM) have dried with a smooth matt finish, so maybe MM have made the RLM colour to replicate the semi-matt Luftwaffe finish.
BTW, I used the same thinners I always use, either with Humbrol, Xtracolor or MM paints, which is White Spirit, and there weren't any problems in use or clean-up.

The gloss coat has now been applied, and as Glenn mentioned, the semi-matt finish certainly helps with the gloss clear finish. The MM paint now has a gloss finish after one coat, whereas the tail band and rudder, painted with Humbrol matt paints, are still more towards a semi gloss.
Can't get any pics at the moment, as the model is inverted and still curing - I prefer to leave this particular varnish at least 12 hours before even light handling, and 24 hours or more before decals - but I should have some pics tomorrow, possibly with some decals on.

 

[Crimea_River]

Sounds good.

 

[Wayne Little]

Bring it on Terry

 

[Airframes]

The gloss coat is done and hardened, and the first of the decals are on !
The crosses are from the kit decal sheet, with the swastikas from Xtradecal, and the JG27 badges from the Tamiya Bf109E kit.
The upper wing crosses should really be around 1.5 mm further outboard. aligned just past the line of the slats, but the decals were very slightly too big, and would have overlapped. so they had to be re-positioned slightly. Hopefully, it's not too noticeable.
More importantly, the fuselage white cross outlines lined up well with the painted grey backgrounds and settled down nicely. There's a tiny bit of retouching required at the bottom edge of the starboard cross, only just noticeable, which is easily rectified, but overall, I'm very pleased, and relieved, at how they turned out.
Looking at the JG27 badge on the port side nose, the line of the curves of the upper colours will need adjusting slightly aft of the badge, to match the real aircraft, but again, a simple job to sort out.
Next step is to apply the remainder of the stencil and wing-walk decals etc and, when they've all bedded down and set properly, and the retouching is done, apply a semi-matt clear coat.
I should be back later with a further up-date.

 

[Wurger]

Looking really great. Well done so far.