**** DONE: GB36 - 1/48th Bf109G-6/R6 - Axis Manufactured aircraft of WWII
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- #102
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Wojtek.
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- #103
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Got the RLM 75 sprayed on the fuselage, wings and tail-planes.
For some unknown reason, my 0.2mm airbrush didn't want to play (I think I need to look at the clutch, as the needle was slipping), so I had to use the 0.3mm 'brush, but it coped well with the free-hand, soft edged demarcation, and should handle the mottle too.
The paint was thinned around 50/50, and sprayed close in, at around 12 psi indicated, just lightly opening the trigger for the demarcation, then going to 'full chat' for the 'fill in'. I reckon the mottle should be OK if the paint is thinned even more, probably 60/40, thinners / paint, and again, low pressure and close in, with the trigger stop set to "heck, that's bl**dy fine".
Can't get pics yet, as the model can't be moved until the paint is at least touch dry, but there's a good chance I can get the RLM 74 sprayed on the fuselage, at least, later this evening, leaving the wings and the mottle until later, so pics then, if I get it done.
I must say, I do like the way the MM paints spray and give such a smooth finish - reminds me of the 'old' Humbrol, from 25+ years ago.
Back later, all being well .....................
For some unknown reason, my 0.2mm airbrush didn't want to play (I think I need to look at the clutch, as the needle was slipping), so I had to use the 0.3mm 'brush, but it coped well with the free-hand, soft edged demarcation, and should handle the mottle too.
The paint was thinned around 50/50, and sprayed close in, at around 12 psi indicated, just lightly opening the trigger for the demarcation, then going to 'full chat' for the 'fill in'. I reckon the mottle should be OK if the paint is thinned even more, probably 60/40, thinners / paint, and again, low pressure and close in, with the trigger stop set to "heck, that's bl**dy fine".
Can't get pics yet, as the model can't be moved until the paint is at least touch dry, but there's a good chance I can get the RLM 74 sprayed on the fuselage, at least, later this evening, leaving the wings and the mottle until later, so pics then, if I get it done.
I must say, I do like the way the MM paints spray and give such a smooth finish - reminds me of the 'old' Humbrol, from 25+ years ago.
Back later, all being well .....................
mikewint
Captain
Terry, been using Model Master paints for a number of years (acrylics though) and have always been very pleased with them but I am still amazed at your (and Geo's) thinning ratios though your enamels may be differently mixed than the Acryl that I use. I might go as far as 20-80 (thinner/paint) but never as far as 50/50 or your 60/40
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- #105
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thinning at 50/50 for enamels is about par for the course Mike, although of course it can depend on the paint, and sometimes the actual colour - some colours have a heavier pigment. Sometimes, the thinning ratio is less, around 60/40 paint / thinners, but mostly the 50/50 is a good start point.
The few times I've used Vallejo or Revell acrylics, I've normally thinned at roughly 50/50 too - gives twice as much paint per bottle, which is a bonus !
Just about to spray the RLM 74, so should have some pics soon.
The few times I've used Vallejo or Revell acrylics, I've normally thinned at roughly 50/50 too - gives twice as much paint per bottle, which is a bonus !
Just about to spray the RLM 74, so should have some pics soon.
mikewint
Captain
I use very few enamels and the few I have are for special effects colors like leather, rust, rubber, etc. so I brush them on and don't pay a whole lot of attention to their viscosity. The few Vallejo acrylic paints I have were for the airbrush and I used them straight out of the bottle. My MM acryl paints I might add an eyedropper full of thinner to a 14.7 ml bottle at the VERY most and seldom that much
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- #107
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Even when I brush paint with enamels, I add a touch of thinners - maybe just a 'brush load' - just to improve the flow, and give a smoother finish, reducing brush marks too.
Anyway, I've got the RLM 74 sprayed, following as close as possible the demarcation outline visible in the photos of Franzisket's aircraft, although of course, only the port side has been photographed.
I thought about the upper wing pattern, as it could be one of at least three styles, including the 'saw tooth' edged style, but, after studying those few photos of JG27 '109s of the time period where at least part of the upper wing was visible, I concluded that the style was the 'mid' type, with a simplified pattern, sprayed with a soft edge. Therefore, the wings were sprayed freehand, again getting in close, at low pressure, and obtaining a fine soft edge.
The photos were taken immediately after spraying, with the paint still wet, so I have yet to determine if some ares will require another light 'blow over'.
The masking tape was applied to the fuselage, lightly, just in case my knackered hands had an 'oops' moment, and allowed over-spray 'mist' to wander onto areas where it wasn't wanted.
I'll let this cure overnight, and hopefully get the mottle done tomorrow.
Anyway, I've got the RLM 74 sprayed, following as close as possible the demarcation outline visible in the photos of Franzisket's aircraft, although of course, only the port side has been photographed.
I thought about the upper wing pattern, as it could be one of at least three styles, including the 'saw tooth' edged style, but, after studying those few photos of JG27 '109s of the time period where at least part of the upper wing was visible, I concluded that the style was the 'mid' type, with a simplified pattern, sprayed with a soft edge. Therefore, the wings were sprayed freehand, again getting in close, at low pressure, and obtaining a fine soft edge.
The photos were taken immediately after spraying, with the paint still wet, so I have yet to determine if some ares will require another light 'blow over'.
The masking tape was applied to the fuselage, lightly, just in case my knackered hands had an 'oops' moment, and allowed over-spray 'mist' to wander onto areas where it wasn't wanted.
I'll let this cure overnight, and hopefully get the mottle done tomorrow.
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- #109
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It would seem that the 'safety' masks on the fuselage lead me to take the wrong line for the demarcation of the upper and lower camouflage colours - the upper colours need to be slightly lower, following the approximate lines shown by the red dots.
Also, the 'sweep' of the RLM 74 indicated by the yellow arrow need to be altered, and some 'thin' areas behind the cockpit need to be re-sprayed - compare the pic of the model to that of the original aircraft.
I'll get this done tomorrow, along with the mottle. The area for the swastika on the fin needs to be masked also, as per the original.
Also, the 'sweep' of the RLM 74 indicated by the yellow arrow need to be altered, and some 'thin' areas behind the cockpit need to be re-sprayed - compare the pic of the model to that of the original aircraft.
I'll get this done tomorrow, along with the mottle. The area for the swastika on the fin needs to be masked also, as per the original.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Looking good Terry, although I would advise against the use of the "safety" tape because if some overspray mist does wander down there it will create a straight line along the tape border so will be more obvious than if the tape weren't there!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking very good Terry.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Just worked my way through this one Terry and just love the way you hustle together so much detail with your scratch building. Some lovely work mate, nice to see.
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- #114
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much indeed chaps, glad you like it.
Kirby, yes you're right. There can sometimes be a very feint, straight line, but this can easily be removed with a paint brush just dampened with thinners, and is better than having a large area of 'mist' extending down the fuselage.
It did actually happen, in one very small line just around the tail band area, but was quickly eliminated.
The demarcation line and any touch-up will be done this afternoon, so I should have some pic later.
Thanks again for the compliments.
Kirby, yes you're right. There can sometimes be a very feint, straight line, but this can easily be removed with a paint brush just dampened with thinners, and is better than having a large area of 'mist' extending down the fuselage.
It did actually happen, in one very small line just around the tail band area, but was quickly eliminated.
The demarcation line and any touch-up will be done this afternoon, so I should have some pic later.
Thanks again for the compliments.
- Thread starter
- #115
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Got the corrections done to the upper/lower camouflage demarcation, as well as the small areas of touch-up, and the mottle - pics below show how it looks to date.
The demarcation below the cockpit could possibly be a touch lower on the forward end, but it's more or less in line with the tip of the winkel, as on the real aircraft, and the masking tape and solid colour over the canopy area could be causing a false impression of the depth as viewed.
Either way, I think I'll leave it as is, as I don't want to risk messing it up at this stage.
Next step is to consider the 'grey' fuselage crosses. I have some Microscale decals which are nearly 40 years old (!), where the grey is a very close match for the RLM 75 paint. It's possibly a tad 'out' in actual hue, but close enough that it probably won't be that noticeable, and good enough, as this is not a 'competition' model, just another cabinet ornament,
I have used some decals from this same sheet recently, without problems, as they were sprayed with a sealing clear coat, but the first thing to do is to test one of the decals. If it works, then fine, the masks can be removed from the winkels and tail band, the model sprayed with a gloss clear coat and, when fully dry, the decal process can start.
If the test decal doesn't work, then the areas of the grey in the crosses will be formed with masks, and the RLM 75 sprayed on.
I'll find out soon, and advise on the outcome in the next up-date.
The demarcation below the cockpit could possibly be a touch lower on the forward end, but it's more or less in line with the tip of the winkel, as on the real aircraft, and the masking tape and solid colour over the canopy area could be causing a false impression of the depth as viewed.
Either way, I think I'll leave it as is, as I don't want to risk messing it up at this stage.
Next step is to consider the 'grey' fuselage crosses. I have some Microscale decals which are nearly 40 years old (!), where the grey is a very close match for the RLM 75 paint. It's possibly a tad 'out' in actual hue, but close enough that it probably won't be that noticeable, and good enough, as this is not a 'competition' model, just another cabinet ornament,
I have used some decals from this same sheet recently, without problems, as they were sprayed with a sealing clear coat, but the first thing to do is to test one of the decals. If it works, then fine, the masks can be removed from the winkels and tail band, the model sprayed with a gloss clear coat and, when fully dry, the decal process can start.
If the test decal doesn't work, then the areas of the grey in the crosses will be formed with masks, and the RLM 75 sprayed on.
I'll find out soon, and advise on the outcome in the next up-date.
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- #117
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Wojtek !
Well, the decal test didn't take long.
The first cross broke up into many pieces after soaking, although it had been slightly folded and creased over the years, so to be expected I suppose.
With three decals remaining, I tried a second cross. This released from the backing, but the corners of the white areas broke away, and it was evident that the whole decal was quite stiff and brittle, so that idea has been binned, and I'll have to paint the grey areas of the crosses.
Back eventually .........................
Well, the decal test didn't take long.
The first cross broke up into many pieces after soaking, although it had been slightly folded and creased over the years, so to be expected I suppose.
With three decals remaining, I tried a second cross. This released from the backing, but the corners of the white areas broke away, and it was evident that the whole decal was quite stiff and brittle, so that idea has been binned, and I'll have to paint the grey areas of the crosses.
Back eventually .........................
Crimea_River
Marshal
I'm wondering why your paint is coming out so glossy Terry. It shouldn't be doing that.
mikewint
Captain
You are putting a tremendous amount of work into this aircraft and it's looking good
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