Fw 190A-8 "Red 19" of 5./JG300 Ernst Schröder Gruppe Build

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Thanks guys.

Here is some more background info from Herr Ernst Schröder.



 
I have a question that shows my noobness about painting. I have been using Tamyia paint for painting but I have switched to Modelmaster for this piece due to the RLM colors that Modelmaster puts out. I think Modelmaster might be by Testors, not sure.
When I begin painting the paint is perfect but the brush after a bit gets very gummed up. I haven't had this problem with Tamyia. What do I need to do to keep my brush fresh while I paint?? Thanks in advance.
 
I presume you are using acrylic paints Amsel? I tend not to use them, mainly for the very reason you have described, as they dry quickly. That is not to say that the paints are at fault, they are NOT - it's just me being used to enamel paints for 46 years! I would think that, to cure the problem, every now and then, clean your brush before continuing. I think this will be quite frequent with acrylics, due to their rapid drying time. You can probably do this with water, although a small amount of acrylic thinner, or Iso alchohol would be better. You may also need to add a small amount of thinner to the paint after a short time, if you have transfered it to some sort of pallet, in order to prevent it drying as it's used. I'm afraid I can't advise in detail, as my use of acrylics has been limited.
 
If you would Wayne that would be great! I am not comfortable with the Modelmaster line yet. I need to test it out on a less "public" project. Thanks for offering!
 
I think it is enamal. Someone just told me that you don't use water with enamels like you do acrylic.
 
Ah! If it is enamel, then they definitely WON'T mix with water! You need to wipe your brush as previously described, and clean it with either enamel thinners or White Spirit. Enamel paints are oil-based, and behave in a totally different manner to acrylics, which are basically either water-based, or water soluble, with an alchohol (or similar) base.
With enamels, do not overload the brush, and it is better to put a small amount of paint, ready to use, in some form of pallet - a jar lid or similar is ideal. Ensure that the paint, in the tin/bottle, is stirred THOROUGHLY before use, every time, in order to mix-in the pigments with the oil-based 'carrier'. Even when you have transferred a little to your pallet, give it another stir/mix, especially with matt paints, otherwise the matting agent in the latter will not mix-in properly, and you could end up with a patchy/streaky effect, and it may take longer to dry. You might find that enamel paints, especially if slightly thinned (with enamel thinners or White Spirit), will 'go further' than acrylics which, by their very nature, want to dry almost as soon as they are applied. This means that you have to 'lay off' the paint more - brush it out on the surface being painted, until it is apparent that more paint is needed on the brush. This will avoid a build-up of paint in any one area, and ensure even, smooth application and drying.
Brushes should be cleaned with either brush cleaner or, as I do, with White Spirit. Wipe off as much paint as possible, using a clean tissue or similar, then dip in White Spirit. Wipe again, to remove the bulk of the paint then, if neccessary, leave in white spirit for a minute or two, and repeat until clean. Dry the brush on tissue to remove any excess spirit, then store as normal, preferably vertical, tip up.
Hopefully, this will have helped. Sorry I can't be more specific at this stage, but I haven't used Model Master paints which are, as far as I have seen, enamels.
 
Ok Amsel, your back up plan...


My Tamiya mixes..

RLM 74 ( XF-24 Dk.Grey 3 Parts, XF-27 Black Green 2 Parts, XF-2 White 1 Part)

RLM 75 ( XF-24 Dk.Grey 1 Part, Khaki Drab 1 Part, XF-2 White 1 Part)

RLM 76 ( XF-23 Lt.Blue 1 Part, XF-66 Lt.Grey 2 Parts. XF-2 White 7 Parts)

Hope this helps if you need it.
 
I have found these only. Source unknown.
 

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