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Hello,
the dihedral is 3,5° measuring on the longeron topside, or 13,6% 7degrees75 measuring at the underside of the front longeron.
Sand the detail 4, it is a door, no a air outlet.
If you use a tape to maintain the dihedral during the sticking, when you will remove the tape, the elasticity of plastic will change the dihedral.
You can made a jig to obtain the good dihedral, and fix a strip of plastic sheet, thickness 1 or 1,5 on the underside of top wing.
I make as this on the H75 with a strip 3x3mm. thereby the wings have the good dihedral.
On the pictures below you can see the strip (white) between the wings.
I spent a lot of money to purchase the Contact Resine upgrade kit and it will be very bad if I will not be able to sort out the gap issue so this is now my first priority.
I will stop working on the cockpit and I will start soon on wheels bays in order to get wings done and solid and then deal with the gaps.
Alberto
In this moment in time I'm fighting with badly warped wings; as I mentioned above I intend to understand where the wing problem is before I do anything else on this model.
The width section of cowling is 28,8mm measured just under the airduct, it's possible that CR is too large?
the wheel well is too thick on the top, sand it
Between cowling and leading edge there was the air outlet of oïl cooler. On the late version there was an "Y" duct masked by A10.
On the early version there was a single straight duct, so cut the A10 to obtain a single strip (3mm at the 1/32) who stop at the leading edge.
Best wishes to all
It's a beautiful work,
the cushion and back seat were "bleu de nuit" as the area cockpit. (but the cockpit will be too dark)
The harness had 5 belts. 2 through the hole in the back seat, 1 each side and 1 ahead(between the legs of pilot).
You could make 2xtwo wires of rudder control. These wires, from rudder bar, go under the seat