After leaving the museum, we met-up with forum member Sander (Kingscoy), and had lunch at the restaurant next door, before moving on to the Airborne Cemetery, a very moving and sad experience.
Every year, on the Sunday closest to September 17th, a memorial ceremony is held here, when local children, already taught the history of the battle in their town, lay flowers on every grave.
We said our goodbyes to Sander, who had to get back to his unit for a briefing, and Karl, Marcel and myself moved on to the location of the final stand just above the river, around the Oude Kerk, passing the Schoonord Cafe and the Hotel Tafelberg on the way, both scenes of desperate fighting as the perimeter shrank around the defending Airborne troops, surrounded on three sides by elements of two SS Panzer Divisions.
PICS 1 to 5. The Oosterbeek War Cemetery.
PIC 6. The Tafelberg. This was Field Marshall Model's HQ, which he quickly evacuated when the landings took place, leaving his still warm dinner on the table !
It was later used as a dressing station for the wounded, and came under heavy fire. Even today, there are still bloodstains on the walls and floors. Unfortunately, only the facade remains of the original building, and it is not open to the public.
PIC 7. The Oude Kerk, just above the Neder Rijn (Lower Rhine), where Lonsdale Force held out to the end, and the final withdrawal across the Lower Rhine commenced. The ancient stone walls, patched and repaired, are still riddled with bullet and shrapnel scars.
PICS 8 and 9. The memorial stone at the side of the church.
PIC 10. Karl and I outside the church - note the bullet scars behind us on the wall.
Next post will feature more of the area around the Oude Kerk, with the withdrawal route and the house of "The Angel of Arnhem", Kate ter Horst, before following the river road into Arnhem itself, and the 'Bridge too Far'.